• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Fuse block help

Robertop

Well-Known Member
Local time
1:46 AM
Joined
Jun 4, 2016
Messages
103
Reaction score
66
In my 69 Roadrunner the fuse block inside the glove compartment has some corrosion of the fuse holders; is there any way to deal with that without having to buy a new harness, like replacing the contacts or only the block itself? Thanks.
 
Did you try cleaning the corrosion or is it too far gone? Me thinks you can buy the block alone,but if the connectors or the wire is also corroded,,,,,well,you know what you will have to do.
 
The plastic doesn't corrode, so it must be just the contacts. If they just have "fuzzy green stuff" on them (corrosion) you can remove that with a mild acid, like oxalic acid or maybe just vinegar (acetic acid). The problem doing that is how do you get just the contacts in the acid solution? Maybe pull them out of the fuse block & soak them one by one in a cup of mild acid? A more direct approach might be to just scrape off the corrosion with a pocket knife & then use electrical cleaner (spray) to clean off the "schmutz"?

Personally, I haven't seen the fuse blocks sold separately. The real "trick" to those is the wire terminals (which are the special shaped fuse holder terminals) which are crimped on. If you don't mind splicing your wiring harness, you "could" pull some contacts with 4"-5" of wire out of a donor fuse box & just replace the ends of your wires. I'd suggest solder & heat-shrink wrap if you go that way to insure a good connection (not just butt connectors). Also, maybe someone sells just those "fuse holder wire terminals" separately?
 
That one on Ebay won't do you any good. It's just the plastic housing, no metal parts. Can you find/read any part number on the fuse holder you have?
 
When I cleaned up the ones on my bee I removed the complete dash harness then removed the fuse clips from the fuse box. Then used tarn-X in a small
bowl and dipped just the clips one at a time. as I pulled them out I used a tig brush under running water and they came out like new. Then dried them and set it aside to air dry then spayed them with electrical barrier and reinstalled in the block. I did all the terminals like that.
 
My fuse holders were in rough shape as well but the rest of the harness was in pretty good shape. I rebuilt my fuse block with new fuse holders I purchased from Del Mar wire & products in Ontario CA.
Part # 18-90 fits 10-12 gauge wire
Part # 18-91 fits 18-20 gauge wire.
I bought a dozen each and have a few spares left.
When I took mine apart I found some 1/8" X 1/4" copper rivets on ebay to replace the drilled out rivets.
They worked perfectly for me.


Del Mar Wire & Products - Wholesale Automotive and Electrical Distributor
 
Thanks for your answers, guys! The block is still in place, I just replaced the dash assembly, but I can reach it since the glove compartment cover is out. I need to remove the box but I don' t want to separate the clips from their wires, since they have very little rust and probably can be cleaned easily. I like the idea of using Tarn-X, because it won' t mess with the plating on the clips (I think). Anyway, you gave me enough ideas for now.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top