Adding Electrical Circuits

[PurpleBeeper]

I don't know much about electrical stuff. I've added a ton of additional electrical equipment (2 electric fuel pumps, nitrous, bottle heater, purge valve, gauges, line lock, etc). Just about everything is wired "+ of battery to fuse to switch to electrical part to ground" and the wiring looks like spaghetti. I want to fix that. I've got a couple aftermarket fuse blocks that have 1 large (maybe 10-12 gauge wire) + and 1 large - connector. They have 6 mini fuse holders and 6 smaller + and 6 smaller - connections. Is there a way for me to wire these fuse block so one or the other is only "hot"....
a. with key in crank or run (fuel pumps)
b. with key in run only (nitrous)

Related....how do I wire up my aftermarket gauges so they turn on/off with my dash lights? Right now I've got them wired to their own separate switch/fuse

THANK YOU!

 

[Aron Gleason]

On your gauge lights, get a distribution block and wire each gauge light to each terminal on the distribution block. Then run 1 wire to the fuse box for lights.

 

[493 Mike]

Locate the OEM circuits you want to use and tap in a relay signal lead. Use a separate relay for each fuse block. That will give you "separation".
Mike

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

So I have 2 gauges wired of the dash light circuit via fuse tap is this a bad way to light them? Always wondered. Also have an external vaccum pump for power breaks but using a relay.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

I don't know much about electrical stuff. I've added a ton of additional electrical equipment (2 electric fuel pumps, nitrous, bottle heater, purge valve, gauges, line lock, etc). Just about everything is wired "+ of battery to fuse to switch to electrical part to ground" and the wiring looks like spaghetti. I want to fix that. I've got a couple aftermarket fuse blocks that have 1 large (maybe 10-12 gauge wire) + and 1 large - connector. They have 6 mini fuse holders and 6 smaller + and 6 smaller - connections. Is there a way for me to wire these fuse block so one or the other is only "hot"....
a. with key in crank or run (fuel pumps)
b. with key in run only (nitrous)

Related....how do I wire up my aftermarket gauges so they turn on/off with my dash lights? Right now I've got them wired to their own separate switch/fuse

THANK YOU!

What year? Aftermarket gauge illumination leads can be added to the original illumination circuit directly, orange wires typically. Original un-modified Chrysler charging system? Should never connect add-on loads to the battery directly if the original charging system is intact. All loads need to be on the alternator side of the ammeter as are all factory original loads. While in operation, engine running, all loads connected to the battery will draw their current from alternator, not the battery, through the ammeter and all related connections/wiring.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Locate the OEM circuits you want to use and tap in a relay signal lead. Use a separate relay for each fuse block. That will give you "separation".
Mike

Thanks Mike. I've started reading up on relays. I have a follow up question.. So, if I power one fuse block through a relay, & I get that relay signal from the + of the ignition coil (relay signal when in run or start).....and I want to power my 2 Holley blue fuel pumps (3A draw each) through that fuse block (so key off turns off both fuel pumps).......Do I add another relay for each fuel pump?

 

[PurpleBeeper]

What year? Aftermarket gauge illumination leads can be added to the original illumination circuit directly, orange wires typically. Original un-modified Chrysler charging system? Should never connect add-on loads to the battery directly if the original charging system is intact. All loads need to be on the alternator side of the ammeter as are all factory original loads. While in operation, engine running, all loads connected to the battery will draw their current from alternator, not the battery, through the ammeter and all related connections/wiring.

That is WAY over my head. I know almost nothing about wiring. I did install some type of "ammeter bypass" a few years ago so power doesn't go through the amp meter (I think that's what I did) and it goes through a really big fuse instead (100A I think?). It is a 1970 plymouth road runner with a stock replacement wiring setup & rally dash has an electronic circuit board in it

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

... I did install some type of "ammeter bypass" a few years ago so power doesn't go through the amp meter (I think that's what I did) and it goes through a really big fuse instead (100A I think?). It is a 1970 plymouth road runner with a stock replacement wiring setup & rally dash has an electronic circuit board in it

That would be considered a modified Chrysler charging system, then power connections can be made most anywhere between the battery and the alternator without the risk of overloading original connections/wiring, you lose the function of the ammeter however and the information it would provide about the real-time battery charging/discharging status as originally designed.

As for the illumination circuit, there is a black three-way bullet connector/tap on an orange wire coming off the dash harness for factory options needing connections to the illumination circuit. That would be the best place to tap into that circuit for aftermarket gauge lighting.

 

[Sinitro]

If U are trying to connect additional lites to the factory dash lites, simplest way is to fabricate a Y wire terminal assembly and plug directly into the dash dimmer control. Typically the connectors are the 0.25" tab terminals male & female available at any auto or electronic store..

Just my $0.02... ;)

 

[493 Mike]

Thanks Mike. I've started reading up on relays. I have a follow up question.. So, if I power one fuse block through a relay, & I get that relay signal from the + of the ignition coil (relay signal when in run or start).....and I want to power my 2 Holley blue fuel pumps (3A draw each) through that fuse block (so key off turns off both fuel pumps).......Do I add another relay for each fuel pump?

Just run them through fuse block. Tell us the specs for the fuse blocks-total amps and each circuit capacity in amps.
Mike

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Just run them through fuse block. Tell us the specs for the fuse blocks-total amps and each circuit capacity in amps.
Mike

OK, I almost understand....if I run a whole fuse block to be hot during start/run off a signal from the + of the ignition coil, I don't need any additional relays for things I have running (fused) off that fuse block, correct?
Whoa...it's a long list and I'm trying to add up amp loads...
Engine fuel pump - 3A
Nitrous fuel pump - 3A
Nitrous system - 10A
Purge system - 10A? (maybe just 5A, I'm not sure)
Bottle heater - already on it's own circuit with its own relay
Aftermarket gauge lights - 6 gauges (e.g. Autometer) - not sure of bulb amps yet
Aftermarket stereo - not sure of amps yet - not many
Aftermarket electric port (GPS plug) - amps???
MSD extras - not sure of amps yet (multi-step retard, 2-step, tach signal converter, line lock)

To improve my wiring, I've bought a marine 5-relay box with 6 fuse ports. This relay box also has a place to add 4 hot female spade connectors. In addition, I have two 6-fuse fuse panels. Each fuse panel has a large + and large - connector (main power and ground) with smaller +/- connectors (6 pairs) for each fused circuit.

My initial thoughts for the 5 relay positions I have available
1. Engine fuel pump with signal off + of coil
2. Nitrous fuel pump with signal off + of coil
3. Nitrous system with signal from nitrous trigger
4. Nitrous purge with signal from nitrous purge button
5. Lights for aftermaket gauges with signal from "dash light pigtail" - orang wire with triple female bullet connector (part of factory wiring)

Does that sound reasonable? Do I need a relay for everything? I also have two large in-line fuse holders (e.g. 100A fuses) to work with. How should I use those? THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP

 

[493 Mike]

OK, I almost understand....if I run a whole fuse block to be hot during start/run off a signal from the + of the ignition coil, I don't need any additional relays for things I have running (fused) off that fuse block, correct?
Whoa...it's a long list and I'm trying to add up amp loads...
Engine fuel pump - 3A
Nitrous fuel pump - 3A
Nitrous system - 10A
Purge system - 10A? (maybe just 5A, I'm not sure)
Bottle heater - already on it's own circuit with its own relay
Aftermarket gauge lights - 6 gauges (e.g. Autometer) - not sure of bulb amps yet
Aftermarket stereo - not sure of amps yet - not many
Aftermarket electric port (GPS plug) - amps???
MSD extras - not sure of amps yet (multi-step retard, 2-step, tach signal converter, line lock)

To improve my wiring, I've bought a marine 5-relay box with 6 fuse ports. This relay box also has a place to add 4 hot female spade connectors. In addition, I have two 6-fuse fuse panels. Each fuse panel has a large + and large - connector (main power and ground) with smaller +/- connectors (6 pairs) for each fused circuit.

My initial thoughts for the 5 relay positions I have available
1. Engine fuel pump with signal off + of coil
2. Nitrous fuel pump with signal off + of coil
3. Nitrous system with signal from nitrous trigger
4. Nitrous purge with signal from nitrous purge button
5. Lights for aftermaket gauges with signal from "dash light pigtail" - orang wire with triple female bullet connector (part of factory wiring)

Does that sound reasonable? Do I need a relay for everything? NO. Use a relay to feed the new fuse panels. the relays must have enough capacity to carry all the loads imposed on each individual fuse block.I also have two large in-line fuse holders (e.g. 100A fuses) to work with. How should I use those? You do not have enough amp load to warrant 100 amp fuses. The new fuse blocks all have fuses for each new circuit. THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP