Fuse Box Grounding?

[Ron H]

I've had recurring problems with blinkers and brake lights not working on my '63 Fury. After some exploration I found the fuse block must have moved maybe due to vibration. I shift the block so it contacts the under side of the metal dash and lights work again. The block position though is slightly angled to make the contact. This seems too odd. The block case is non-conductive so can't see how this would be the trick. I put in a different block connector screw and made sure of metal to metal contact there. Anyone encounter similar problems? Thanks.

 

[Shorthorse]

Won't be a ground issue at the fuse box. Fuses and grounds don't go together. The grounds for the brake/turn signal/flasher bulbs are independent at each socket. The first common point is the directional switch in the steering column. My guess is that slightly moving the fuse box is simply putting enough pressure on some wires other connector in the harness that causes a better connection. Start by checking the connector for the turn signals at the steering column.
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1963/63BelvedereFurySavoyV8A.JPG
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1963/63BelvedereFurySavoyV8B.JPG

 

[Darthomas]

Push on spade terminal connectors get loose on the topside of the fusebox.
There should be just enough wire slack for you to lower it, flip it over, and check for this.

 

[Ron H]

Thanks much for this advice - some years ago I had to replace the blinker lever auto return switch and also the lever; there was a cheap cruise control system installed that I took out. Messing with the wires for this job could have created this situation.

 

[Ron H]

well after several hours and a sore back I think the issue is resolved. You were right about shifting of box after what I found in the box. The hot wire had burned thru the insulation on two fuse wires; surprised I didn't encounter more problems than I noticed. After much finagling I got the fuse holders out of the box and repaired those wires. The hot wire must have gotten pretty hot by the looks of it, maybe due to cross contacting. I spliced a wire in here as there was little wire to work with and taped the wires...no sparing the tape. I took the radio out for more working room to do this chore. Have no idea why I was thinking about ground...guess when I think of electrical problems that's always first in my head. Thanks again for your help! Ron H.

 

[Darthomas]

Any looseness in the spade connector builds heat when there's current, and the problem builds on itself, oxidizing BOTH connectors making ever more heat.
I had to replace the fuse clip on a heater fusebox position, kept making the end of the fuse so hot it would melt internally inside the metal cap and open up, while the middle of the fuse stayed intact.

 

[Ron H]

I thought for sure looking at the spade color tinted from heat I'd have a hell of a time getting it off but it came off with needle nose, might have just been lucky here. I had more trouble reconnecting the new spade on that connector. This and getting the fuse holders off the box was probably the most time. Also surprised I wasn't blowing fuses..