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Galvanized Paint

MarPar

Live not by lies
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Gents and Lady,
I am going to paint my boat trailer in the near future and will be using Rustoleum 7000 series galvanized paint. It is a Shoreliner from 1982 and the galvanization appears to be all original.


I have been getting conflicting info on the interwebs (what a surprise lol) and need advice from the braintrust.

On the Rustoleum website (and on the can itself) it says 'excellent adhesion to galvanized metal' implying that I do not need to prime the trailer. I have read that you power wash the trailer with dish soap and water and then clean the "white rust" with vinegar. I have also read that you need to do all of the above and then prime it afterwards. So which is it?

Also, I have read that it is brush on only, but also have read that it can be rolled on. I would prefer rolling it on (on the tongue at least) so you don't see any brush marks.

Pic of the boat...the white section is where I had the tongue extended and the white is self-etching primer of which I will re-apply when it comes time to paint.

123_14.jpg


And since we're on the subject of my hole in the water, would it matter if the ***-end of the boat (transom) be 6" forward of the edge of the trailer? Reason I ask is, the winch post (as seen in the pic above) needs to go in front of the welded section as the width of the post is only 3" and the welded section is 3.5" and I want to use this post. I will be installing new bunks of which I can place wherever I need to-was thinking even with the end of the trailer or even slightly rearward.


IMG_3747.jpg

IMG_3748.jpg


IMG_3749.jpg



:thankyou:
 
I'd put purple power in a pump sprayer then pressure wash. Vinegar will help with rust. Being forward shouldn't matter, just will have to land a bit deeper. Don't buy bunks. Get treated 2x6 or 4s, outdoor carpet remnets and outdoor carpet glue, staple the bottom(paslode). Mine have lasted over 10 years on the duck boat. The factory ones broke after 4 years and 6 on the other. After the second one snapped I replaced them. I only go two blocks to the launch though.
Marpar in the near future.
booze-and-pirates.jpg
 
Last edited:
Mario
(hole in the water :poke: BOAT = Break Out Another Thousand)
Maybe (?) POR-15 the frame 1st,
after what ever welding & drilling is done
(those look to be cold welds (not good heat or penetration), in the photos)
before you do the Gavinized Rustoleum 'with zinc'
I would assume the POR-15 helps or kills or converts the rust,
so you have a good base

not sure the 2 products are even compatible

never even heard of the Gavinized paint
strange it only has a 2 year guarantee too

I'll defer to people that now more about paint

good luck
 
Gents and Lady,
I am going to paint my boat trailer in the near future and will be using Rustoleum 7000 series galvanized paint. It is a Shoreliner from 1982 and the galvanization appears to be all original.


I have been getting conflicting info on the interwebs (what a surprise lol) and need advice from the braintrust.

On the Rustoleum website (and on the can itself) it says 'excellent adhesion to galvanized metal' implying that I do not need to prime the trailer. I have read that you power wash the trailer with dish soap and water and then clean the "white rust" with vinegar. I have also read that you need to do all of the above and then prime it afterwards. So which is it?

Also, I have read that it is brush on only, but also have read that it can be rolled on. I would prefer rolling it on (on the tongue at least) so you don't see any brush marks.

Pic of the boat...the white section is where I had the tongue extended and the white is self-etching primer of which I will re-apply when it comes time to paint.

View attachment 1333567

And since we're on the subject of my hole in the water, would it matter if the ***-end of the boat (transom) be 6" forward of the edge of the trailer? Reason I ask is, the winch post (as seen in the pic above) needs to go in front of the welded section as the width of the post is only 3" and the welded section is 3.5" and I want to use this post. I will be installing new bunks of which I can place wherever I need to-was thinking even with the end of the trailer or even slightly rearward.


View attachment 1333568
View attachment 1333571

View attachment 1333572


:thankyou:
Reading their technical data sheet, it says that brushing is only for touch up. Rolling not recommended. They advise spraying it on.
 
On the subject of painting, I’m in a little bit different situation, as my trailer gets dunked in salt water 100% of the time. I tried using the por on my rusted galvanized axles (that stuff sticks to everything I think). A few years later, I replaced them. The paint was just a bandaid for a while with me.
As to moving everything forward, it looks like that extended piece is fairly long. Have you considered the extra weight on the tongue? Or would that be an issue. I can’t see the axle area very well, so I can’t tell if they can be moved.
 
And since we're on the subject of my hole in the water, would it matter if the ***-end of the boat (transom) be 6" forward of the edge of the trailer?
As long as the skeg (bottom of motor) has enough clearance to not hit on the trailer frame....you're golden. :thumbsup:

From my experience.....POR-15 is not really a rust prohibitor or preventer.....it's more about a heat treatment protection paint. I painted a few things with POR-15, and while they looked great for a few years, they could have been better with actual rust prevention paint.
Even a high zinc content spray paint will eventually give way to rust formation. Galvanising is the best course of action.....but as usual, the job is only as good as the preparation prior to coating or painting.

Looking good so far.....can't wait to see your next haul of crappies. :lol:
 
See how long the Rustoleum takes to dry. The newer seems to dry faster but I'm thinking with the silver that they use it might take awhile to cure. Any Rustoleum can be painted over rust as long as it isn't loose. Never hurts to use a primer.

Good luck! Time to get after them fall Small Mouths!
 
Last edited:
Mario,

If you're going to use vinegar, make sure you neutralize it before applying ANY type of topcoat. Personally, I'd run it down with a DA to remove the loose ****, hand sand it with 80 to give it some tooth, 3 coats of epoxy primer and call it a day.
 
If you haven't thought about it yet, rear guides are really a big help when loading a smaller boat.
Screenshot_20220826-214243_Chrome.jpg

I had a 16' and loading it on a windy day could be challenging, especially by yourself. I like to float the boat onto the trailer instead of winching it on. With the rear guides you can see where the rear of the trailer is when getting it deep in the water. Pull it on with just a rope. You could even make your own with some square tubing and pcv pipe.

https://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-Parts/CE-Smith/CE27620.html
 
I'd put purple power in a pump sprayer then pressure wash. Vinegar will help with rust. Being forward shouldn't matter, just will have to land a bit deeper. Don't buy bunks. Get treated 2x6 or 4s, outdoor carpet remnets and outdoor carpet glue, staple the bottom(paslode). Mine have lasted over 10 years on the duck boat. The factory ones broke after 4 years and 6 on the other. After the second one snapped I replaced them. I only go two blocks to the launch though.
Marpar in the near future.View attachment 1333656
:rofl: AHOY!! lol

Cool thanks. I already bought the bunks though. Ultimate bunks is the brand name. I dont want to be mucking about with these things in a few years.
 
Last edited:
Mario
(hole in the water :poke: BOAT = Break Out Another Thousand)
Maybe (?) POR-15 the frame 1st,
after what ever welding & drilling is done
(those look to be cold welds (not good heat or penetration), in the photos)
before you do the Gavinized Rustoleum 'with zinc'
I would assume the POR-15 helps or kills or converts the rust,
so you have a good base

not sure the 2 products are even compatible

never even heard of the Gavinized paint
strange it only has a 2 year guarantee too

I'll defer to people that now more about paint

good luck
Thanks Bart. In my case, BOAT stands for Break Out Another Twenty lol
 
On the subject of painting, I’m in a little bit different situation, as my trailer gets dunked in salt water 100% of the time. I tried using the por on my rusted galvanized axles (that stuff sticks to everything I think). A few years later, I replaced them. The paint was just a bandaid for a while with me.
As to moving everything forward, it looks like that extended piece is fairly long. Have you considered the extra weight on the tongue? Or would that be an issue. I can’t see the axle area very well, so I can’t tell if they can be moved.
I am a little concerned about that too. They say 10-15% on the tongue. I may be a little over that. Though the boat doesn't weigh more than 200-250# as she sits right now.
 
As long as the skeg (bottom of motor) has enough clearance to not hit on the trailer frame....you're golden. :thumbsup:

From my experience.....POR-15 is not really a rust prohibitor or preventer.....it's more about a heat treatment protection paint. I painted a few things with POR-15, and while they looked great for a few years, they could have been better with actual rust prevention paint.
Even a high zinc content spray paint will eventually give way to rust formation. Galvanising is the best course of action.....but as usual, the job is only as good as the preparation prior to coating or painting.

Looking good so far.....can't wait to see your next haul of crappies. :lol:
Thanks Rog! I thought about the motor too. She is an electric-only (trolling motor-for right now anyways lol) So the motor wont be an issue. Ill just use that galvanizing paint on everything for right now and see how she holds up.

Primer fer ya...

DSC05215.JPG
 
See how long the Rustoleum takes to dry. The newer seems to dry faster but I'm thinking with the silver that they use it might take awhile to cure. Any Rustoleum can be painted over rust as long as it isn't loose. Never hurts to use a primer.

Good luck! Time to get after them fall Small Mouths!
IIRC, it says 24 hours to fully cure. I have read both ways, to prime and not to prime. Something with the zinc that most primers won't won't stick to it.

Smallmouths eh? Like them too lol

DSC08654.JPG
 
Mario,

If you're going to use vinegar, make sure you neutralize it before applying ANY type of topcoat. Personally, I'd run it down with a DA to remove the loose ****, hand sand it with 80 to give it some tooth, 3 coats of epoxy primer and call it a day.

Thank Pete. I was just going to flush the vinegar with the hose. That should be enough to neutralize, right? Nothing loose on there, just old. I have read that 220 on a DA is tooth enough for this paint. You reckon I should prime it too, huh? Was hoping to avoid that lol
 
If you haven't thought about it yet, rear guides are really a big help when loading a smaller boat.
View attachment 1333805
I had a 16' and loading it on a windy day could be challenging, especially by yourself. I like to float the boat onto the trailer instead of winching it on. With the rear guides you can see where the rear of the trailer is when getting it deep in the water. Pull it on with just a rope. You could even make your own with some square tubing and pcv pipe.

https://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-Parts/CE-Smith/CE27620.html

That is definitely on the list. Considering too that I can't see the boat when Im towing it, those will help alot lol
 
I am a little concerned about that too. They say 10-15% on the tongue. I may be a little over that. Though the boat doesn't weigh more than 200-250# as she sits right now.
If that boat only weighs 250 pounds is isn't going to care where it's at on the trailer.
 
Thank Pete. I was just going to flush the vinegar with the hose. That should be enough to neutralize, right? Nothing loose on there, just old. I have read that 220 on a DA is tooth enough for this paint. You reckon I should prime it too, huh? Was hoping to avoid that lol
Maybe, maybe not. I would rinse the vinegar, make up a spray bottle of water and baking soda and hose it down next and then rinse that off with water. 220 is way too fine IMHO. My thoughts were to not using the Rustoleum stuff at all and just leave it in epoxy. But, if you already bought it, try it without the primer and see what it looks like after a few seasons.

Trailer guides are an awesome idea as well. I had a float on trailer for my center console ( no winch) and man, without guides, you would have no idea where that damn thing was underwater.
 
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