Garage air line plumbing options?

[73HEMI_RR_GTX]

I used 3/4” dia PEX made by Sharkbite and Sharkbite PEX fittings. I bought everything at Home Depot.

One word of caution, I would not recommend using PVC pipe because, over time and exposure to UV light PVC becomes brittle and under pressure can burst sending plastic shrapnel throughout the garage. Also PEX is not brittle like PVC but can become brittle if exposed constantly to UV light. So I primed and painted my PEX air lines to protect them from UV exposure.

My system is over 5 years with no leaks or issues. And my air line runs are over 80ft long.

 

[not so famous bob]

I used 3/4” dia PEX made by Sharkbite and Sharkbite PEX fittings. I bought everything at Home Depot.

One word of caution, I would not recommend using PVC pipe because, over time and exposure to UV light PVC becomes brittle and under pressure can burst sending plastic shrapnel throughout the garage. Also PEX is not brittle like PVC but can become brittle if exposed constantly to UV light. So I primed and painted my PEX air lines to protect them from UV exposure.
My system is over 5 years with no leaks or issues. And my air line runs are over 80ft long.

Like I said before, mine is about 35ish yrs old /schedule 80 pvc, no sunlight hits it, doesn`t move around, has a vibration fitting on the
compressor, doen`t stay aired up w/ pressure except when I use it.
Burst pressure on schedule 80 is way more than ur compressor can put on it !

 

[747mopar]

Like I said before, mine is about 35ish yrs old /schedule 80 pvc, no sunlight hits it, doesn`t move around, has a vibration fitting on the
compressor, doen`t stay aired up w/ pressure except when I use it.
Burst pressure on schedule 80 is way more than ur compressor can put on it !

I don't doubt that it will work at all but I've just grown to despise the stuff, it's just sloppy to look at and breaks way to easy for me. I've used plastic fittings twice on my main water feeds in my basement feeding the pump, both times the crap won't seal! My problem is always the gray threaded fittings, I've taped it, doped it then taped and doped it and it still leaks! I'll be ripping it all out and trashing it again and going with sweated copper which has never leaked. Just don't like it except for drainage pipes.

 

[747mopar]

Picture from my other thread.... love this stuff!

 

[73HEMI_RR_GTX]

Like I said before, mine is about 35ish yrs old /schedule 80 pvc, no sunlight hits it, doesn`t move around, has a vibration fitting on the
compressor, doen`t stay aired up w/ pressure except when I use it.
Burst pressure on schedule 80 is way more than ur compressor can put on it !

PVC works I agree, I used PVC in my last shop for over 15 years without issue. Just suggesting the Pros and Cons. PEX IMO is easier to work with and change configuration in the future if desired.

 

[Chad Witham]

Now that I'm getting back on dad's truck and doing the bodywork it's high priority to get the compressor out of the work area! Pretty sure it's going upstairs but when I do I have no choice but to start plumbing the lines. I know I absolutely do not want any black pipes but what to use. I've got a friend who plumbed his in copper which is a viable option but I'm really liking the looks of these kits you can buy nearly anywhere that use what looks like Pex tubing and push on fittings. The ultimate option would be the aluminum kits I can get through our air system supplier at work but ?????? It's basically thin wall tubing, you borrow the installation kit which consist of a jig for holesawing the holes true then you simply install clamp on fittings, really nice setup.

Anybody use the Pex kits? Any other suggestions?

2 other concerns are the temperature from being in an unheated area and vibrations that the compressor will transmit through the floor. For vibration I can throw an isolation mat or mounts under it? I am however unsure of the affects it may have pulling in air from an unheated area, I could plumb the intake down through the floor if need be?View attachment 686819

I use a similar kit I got from our local rural king, to isolate the compressor I used a 3’ long air hose to plug into the system that way if when we move I want to take the air compressor I can.

 

[747mopar]

I use a similar kit I got from our local rural king, to isolate the compressor I used a 3’ long air hose to plug into the system that way if when we move I want to take the air compressor I can.

Yeap, I've got a 3/4" hose on mine.

 

[not so famous bob]

I don't doubt that it will work at all but I've just grown to despise the stuff, it's just sloppy to look at and breaks way to easy for me. I've used plastic fittings twice on my main water feeds in my basement feeding the pump, both times the crap won't seal! My problem is always the gray threaded fittings, I've taped it, doped it then taped and doped it and it still leaks! I'll be ripping it all out and trashing it again and going with sweated copper which has never leaked. Just don't like it except for drainage pipes.

After being a plumber for over 45 yrs. , I`d say u need a plumber , I have used all the stuff u mentioned, and never had that kind of trouble with any of it.
U ar doing something wrong !!

 

[747mopar]

After being a plumber for over 45 yrs. , I`d say u need a plumber , I have used all the stuff u mentioned, and never had that kind of trouble with any of it.
U ar doing something wrong !!

Nope, as a maintenance tech I've worked on Hydraulics, steam lines, airlines, etc my whole career and know the tricks to sealing up pipes. I've seen plenty of "professional" plumbing jobs and would trust myself over some of what I've seen anyday.

 

[589charger]

I have Maxline in my shop, and I won’t go back to anything else. Best stuff I’ve ever used. That’s my recommendation. I have some stuff leftover I would make a good deal for you if want to get started with some stuff.

 

[Dajkzo]

This time around I purchased a "RapidAir" kit from Northern Tool. I'm very happy with it. One simple rule is make sure you have at least 50 feet of line before your water separator so the vapour can cool/condense.

 

[halojumper]

Years ago i used schedule forty pvc to run lines. Mind you this was in the eighties, ninetys. I never had a problem. I used a 5 horsepower, 80 gallon tank compressor. I used a water/oil separator, and drained the tank daily. Today of course i would not use pvc. There is a lot of stuff out there to use that is much safer.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

This time around I purchased a "RapidAir" kit from Northern Tool. I'm very happy with it. One simple rule is make sure you have at least 50 feet of line before your water separator so the vapour can cool/condense.

Damn I need to do this.. Mines only 5 feet away..

 

[gkent]

"Sched 40" says it all ... safety shouldn't be a concern. The likes will see what, 120 PSI max. No problem.

 

[halojumper]

As long as the joints are properly cleaned and glued with the correct prep, and adhesive products.

 

[Hey-O]

Copper, once and done and will last a life time.

 

[gkent]

I installed copper in my first shop in 1987. I've taken it out a reinstalled it in four shops since !!

 

[Hey-O]

I installed copper in my first shop in 1987. I've taken it out a reinstalled it in four shops since !!

I've done the same thing!!

 

[Hemirunner]

I installed copper in my first shop in 1987. I've taken it out a reinstalled it in four shops since !!

I’m getting ready to reinstall some used copper in mine from the old shop!

 

[Dan64]

I've been using pvc for years [i know,i know] one little trick that helps with water in the lines besides a separator is to put a drop down about 8' long right before the outlet. the drop down has a petcock on it to gravity release any water that gets past your separator.