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Gear oil leaking from front of A833

AR67GTX

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I’m getting ready to pull the 4 speed in my 66 to see what it needs. I’ve always had some oil of some kind at the lower front of the transmission and never 100% sure if from the rear main or the transmission. Well, today I cracked the bolts loose to the bellhousing before having to quit for the day. Probably an ounce or slightly more gear oil ran out between the two as they very slightly separated. It’s very distinctly the gear oil I changed into it several years ago - nice thick, clean stuff.

So what leaks mostly at the front of an A833? I know Muncies more than anything and with wear they almost always leak at the countershaft bore in the front of the case. I assumed A833s with an iron case didn’t suffer from this? Is there some common screw up at the front bearing retainer that can cause a leak. My old “how to” book doesn’t describe anything special other than the bearing retainer, seal and gasket but doesn’t provide my detail. Hopefully I will get it out tomorrow - I keep forgetting things in the way like dropping the H-pipe so the transmission crossmember can come out.

I’ve managed to rebuild a Muncie, a Toploader, an 8-3/4 rear end and an A727 successfully in the past and have a press, bearing splitters/pullers and stuff typically needed. Any thing unusual about an A833 in the way of tools or equipment that I may need for rebuilding it in my garage (other than an ape to lug the heavy thing around)?

Thanks
 
....and don't forget to either drain the gear oil or plug the hole where the driveshaft yoke goes in. Depending on how much you tilt it you could end up with a large gear oil leak :lol:
 
And to add further, if the transmission functions just fine and doesn't make any noise I wouldn't do anything further other than stopping the leak. No sense in rebuilding something that doesn't need rebuilt lol.
 
My a833 book says to clean the countershaft bore seam and dab a small layer of clear rtv to help seal it.
 
And to add further, if the transmission functions just fine and doesn't make any noise I wouldn't do anything further other than stopping the leak. No sense in rebuilding something that doesn't need rebuilt lol.

That is my intention as mechanically it’s functioning fine. But I would like to replace the tail housing gasket, fix whatever is going on up front, and install shift fork seals. Right now I’m hoping that doesn’t get into pulling it all apart. I’m hoping I can just unbolt the tail housing and separate it slightly to get the old gasket out and slide a new one in place, probably having to cut it at the top and using RTV to seal the cut. I may not be able to replace the reverse shaft seal if they install from the inside - need to research that. Also want to check out the clutch as I have no idea what’s in it other than it’s a diaphragm type.

Thanks
 
....and don't forget to either drain the gear oil or plug the hole where the driveshaft yoke goes in. Depending on how much you tilt it you could end up with a large gear oil leak :lol:

Yes - I had a spare yoke I slid in the rear. Wasn’t quite ready for the lube that ran out the front though when I loosened up the bolts a little.
 
My a833 book says to clean the countershaft bore seam and dab a small layer of clear rtv to help seal it.

OK - that’s what we used to do as a cheap fix on Muncies, clean the counterbore area fill the slight recess with RTV and slide it into the bell housing and cinch it up.

Thanks
 
I learned long ago with my Muncies using the newer synthetic low viscosity gear lubes with OEM type gaskets and assembly guaranteed a leaky trans. The machining of those older tranny gasket surfaces just were not designed for the thinner lubes of today.
 
Looks like it’s the input seal. Lots of oil all around the bearing retainer.

IMG_3046.jpeg


The shaft seals actually look pretty dry so I may leave them alone.

IMG_3048.jpeg


I would like to replace the tail housing gasket if it’s possible without pulling the transmission completely apart.

Bigger problem is I haven’t been able to get the bell-housing off. As far as I can tell I’ve got all the bolts out and the starter bolts pulled - bolts around the top - I think 7 bolts total. But except for the pass side opening up about 1/16” from the block it’s not budging. Even rapped it a couple times with a big inertia hammer. Anything I might be missing?
 
Looks like it’s the input seal. Lots of oil all around the bearing retainer.

View attachment 1950396

The shaft seals actually look pretty dry so I may leave them alone.

View attachment 1950397

I would like to replace the tail housing gasket if it’s possible without pulling the transmission completely apart.

Bigger problem is I haven’t been able to get the bell-housing off. As far as I can tell I’ve got all the bolts out and the starter bolts pulled - bolts around the top - I think 7 bolts total. But except for the pass side opening up about 1/16” from the block it’s not budging. Even rapped it a couple times with a big inertia hammer. Anything I might be missing?
Spray some penetrating oil on the block dowel pin holes, then making SURE all bolts are out drive a gasket scraper under to unseat the bell housing. And on the leaks, A833 just leak, I been driving them since 1974 and most of them leaked a little. I fix them for other people, and they seem to hold for a while but after a little time they start seeping again.

I have one now in a 69 Cuda, new everything, RTV bores etc. and it seeps when sitting, I just put a piece of cardboard under it and forget about it. And as mentioned changing from 90W gear oil to the light synchromesh fluid is worse for leaks. But they, at least for me, shift a lot nicer with the thin fluid.
 
I’ll try a paint scraper. Sure seems solid but I can’t find any more bolts. I have the rear lowered a little and I can feel around it OK up top and on the sides.
 
I had one leaking from everywhere! Found out that the vent was never drilled from the factory.
I've had SEW gear-drive motors do that on site..... pressure builds up internally and the oil has to go somewhere. :)

One of them I was told the guys who built it left the protecting o-ring on then painted it with special Harsh-conditions paint....moroons. :rolleyes:
 
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