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Gen3 Hemi Push to start

amvenne

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Hey all. I've found the Gen3 Hemi/NAG1 trans setup that I'd like to swap in to my '66 Charger. It's from a 2014 police Charger. The donor vehicle has a push to start system. Can anyone point me in the simplest direction to either keep the push-to-start, or change out for the current key ignition? Appreciate any advice!
Thanks!
 
I would not use the push to start feature. Very easy to steal the early cars. Just my .002.
 
Thanks BeepBeep! I've emailed them to see if their product will work for me. I've got a 2014 setup. The video says it fits 2011+, but the website says 2015-2021.
 
I installed a Gen III in my 68 Charger. The problem with using your stock 66 ignition from what I remember is the issue of the break in continuity between start and run. Apparently the Hemi don't like that and will not run properly. I tied the start and run together on my ignition switch and most times it would start and run great while other times it would flutter and miss fire. I wired in a hidden push button under the dash and it has worked fine since then with just putting the key on run then using the push button. Not sure if this helps you any but that was my remedy You might want to quiz Chris at Hotwireauto.com
Ph: 479 243 9115
He was a ton of help with mine back in 2015 and is up on these swaps.
 
I installed a Gen III in my 68 Charger. The problem with using your stock 66 ignition from what I remember is the issue of the break in continuity between start and run. Apparently the Hemi don't like that and will not run properly. I tied the start and run together on my ignition switch and most times it would start and run great while other times it would flutter and miss fire. I wired in a hidden push button under the dash and it has worked fine since then with just putting the key on run then using the push button. Not sure if this helps you any but that was my remedy You might want to quiz Chris at Hotwireauto.com
Ph: 479 243 9115
He was a ton of help with mine back in 2015 and is up on these swaps.
Thanks! I'll keep this in mind!
 
I retained my factory ignition switch with a gen 3 swap, any you are correct there is a break in power from start back to run, however, you can splice your ACC wire to your Coil wire and it will see uninterrupted power when releasing the key. You will have full power when you turn the key backwards to the Acc position when you do this however, but not a big deal.

The factory push button would be nice but imagine it would be difficult to make work and would likely need to wire the Body control module and some other equipment keep that happy.

there are some aftermarket push to start systems, but in the end I didn't want to deal with any potential reliability issues arising from that. Heard good thngs about theese folks: Automotive Keyless Ignition Kits - Digital Guard Dawg
 
Who's gen 3 controller are you planning on using? Most controllers are pre wired with a "start" wire in the harness. You can tie that to your original start wire in your charger wire, or run ignition power to a push button, then triggering the starter.
Like mentioned above, you must weed out the ignition power first. Your charger uses a "ignition 1" and an "ignition 2" in the starter switch. Ignition 1 is the "run" part. When you turn the key to the start position, ignition 2 kicks in, and ignition 1 goes away while the key is turned. This is where ma mopar used the ballast resistor, tying the two together.
So, if you think you've found an ignition hot wire, always check what it does in start. This was always a problem with people wiring in an msd box.
On the gen 3 swaps, I find it easier to modify the harness at the column plug, tying ignition 1 and 2 together, soldered.
You should look into bypassing the amp gauge too, always a problem anyway. Think of it this way: your charger was built with a harness and an alternator using 35-45 amps. Your new motor will be 160-220 amps, depending on the alt you use.
If you need help figuring these wires, just ask.
 
Who's gen 3 controller are you planning on using? Most controllers are pre wired with a "start" wire in the harness. You can tie that to your original start wire in your charger wire, or run ignition power to a push button, then triggering the starter.
Like mentioned above, you must weed out the ignition power first. Your charger uses a "ignition 1" and an "ignition 2" in the starter switch. Ignition 1 is the "run" part. When you turn the key to the start position, ignition 2 kicks in, and ignition 1 goes away while the key is turned. This is where ma mopar used the ballast resistor, tying the two together.
So, if you think you've found an ignition hot wire, always check what it does in start. This was always a problem with people wiring in an msd box.
On the gen 3 swaps, I find it easier to modify the harness at the column plug, tying ignition 1 and 2 together, soldered.
You should look into bypassing the amp gauge too, always a problem anyway. Think of it this way: your charger was built with a harness and an alternator using 35-45 amps. Your new motor will be 160-220 amps, depending on the alt you use.
If you need help figuring these wires, just ask.
Thanks! I've got the pcm that came with the motor and the stock harness. I was planning to use that, but will do some more research.
 
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