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Good Mopar Brake Shop Near Chicago?

PurpleBeeper

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I've been struggling for the last 3 months with a brake problem on my '70 Roadrunner. Two shops & 2 Dodge dealer master mechanics can't figure it out. Can anyone recommend a shop near Chicago that's an expert at old Mopars?
 
my garage! lol just kidding.

have you tried Nuts and Volts in Lombard? Jerry is good sh*t. (630) 932-8833

what exactly is the issue anyways?
 
Brake warning light on (goes off when I pull the plug) and the brakes feel really, really soft. I don't think my front calipers are working & when I try to gravity bleed nothing comes out of the calipers.
 
Not a fan of gravity bleed here. Did you replace the bleeders? Not a whole lot that can go wrong with a caliper. Piston or slider hang or leak maybe. If you pump it does it get stiff? Does the MC actually pump fluid? Is your pedal returning all the way? Is it pulling the MC piston back with it?
 
jerry knows.
and thanks for that tip, Mario, they have had the 'vert a few times

anytime, Bob. glad I could help!!
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In a dual master cylinder system, the brake light will go on when one side (front or rear) has a pressure differential to the other. Seems elementary at first glance there's air on one side. Has the system been pressure bled ? Has the MC been bled ?
 
I've never had any luck with gravity bleeding either.
Now that we know what the problem is, we need to know what has been attempted, other than a gravity bleed. Since you've had 2 shops and master mechanics look at it, I have to assume they have tried a pressure or vacuum bleed? This brake system is not rocket science and most any mechanic, alley or otherwise should be able to figure it out.
 
This is why when i got to the braking system on my restoration,every part, especially all lines,hoses distribution block,everything is replaced with new.
 
hey! whenever you get done with yer meat, the garage is open. come on by, have a few, got tunes, ya know, a play date

haha! thanks Bob. I am currently furiously working on the Newport to try and get a couple more rides in before the salt hits. if you get a chance one afternoon, throw me a text and come by and check out the action. lol

ill definitely try and stop by once she's out of dry dock though.

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I've replaced the master cylinder (three times), the metering valve (twice), the brake booster, the proportioning valve, new stainless brake lines front-to-back, new calipers, rotors, pads, drums, shoes, hardware front & back, brake warning switch (3 times), rear brake hose & passenger's brake hose. Only older part is left is the driver front brake hose & I wasn't getting fluid out of the passenger caliper, so the driver's hose isn't it. Master cylinder was bench bled + later bled on the car with the hoses (when I questioned my bench bleed).

Last night my wife pumped the brakes and I found a leak near the proportioning valve where the line between the proportioning valve & metering valve connect to each other at the end, so I have at least one more thing to try. The last leak(s) I fixed two days ago were this line & the one that comes down from the back of the master cylinder to the metering valve. It "seems" like with these stainless lines they start to leak at the ends if you connect/disconnect them a few times. I've also been unable to double flare the SS line with my flare tool (too hard & line slips out of grips). Since it doesn't look like Inline Tubes sells partial SS kits, I resorted to compression unions & mild steel line to fix the leaking half of the line(s). Now the "good SS half" of the line I mentioned is leaking too, so I will see if I can replace the whole line with mild steel. I have one more new proportioning valve I guess I could try too if it's the female half of that connection that's causing the leak.
 
Yeah, compression fittings are a no-no on brakes. Sounds like diff. valve plunger is blocking off the frt.brakes because of a press. drop and just letting fluid to the rears. You'll have to crack a rear line to let valve move towards the center again& then the warn lite will turn off.
 
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