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Green bearings problems pro & con

Cornpatch MO

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I think I have a rear axle bearing going out, So I have been doing some research on the non adjustable Green bearings. Green is actually the name of the company that makes them. They have been bought out by another company, but still retains the Green name .
My best source of Info is from Dr. Differential tech article. ( who could be better??) The early bearings are RP 400 and have a crimped on 5 hole retainer which will not allow for any "wiggle" in the bearing . Most axle housings , even new ones are not perfectly straight. and between tha,t and those bearings are inserted in the housing deeper, results in pre-loading against the thrust block, and can lead to early bearing failure. So-- that must be the reason for the pros and the cons. Those bearings are still being sold by some sources including Mopar Performance parts ( alledgedly)
Now, there is a newer style "Green" bearing, # MO 400 that is installed with a snap ring and supposedly has taken care of the problems the older bearings (has)- had.
In the past, I have been against the use of Green bearings, but with ease of installation, I just might give them a try. ...................................MO
 
They have been in my 65 since '02.The early type. Aprox 40K miles. Factory Chrysler suregrip with buttons in place. At the time I asked about the buttons (Randy's Ring and Pinion) and was told they can be used with or without.Lots of highway miles and drag racing.Still going strong.My 2 cents.You can't go wrong with Dr. Diff he gets all my business now.
 
I cannot recommend them, and I am now in the process of switching back to Timken tapered bearings. Basically in 900 miles, the grease in both bearings leaked out of the seal, one side did it on the outside, the other did it on the inside, and both axle seals are good so it wasn't caused by diff oil getting into them. At least I was able to catch it before they got dried up and caused more problems. I was not impressed with them.
 
Most new cars have them.200,000 + miles on originals is pretty good. I use the Green bearings from Dr. Diff with no issues
 
I cannot recommend them, and I am now in the process of switching back to Timken tapered bearings. Basically in 900 miles, the grease in both bearings leaked out of the seal, one side did it on the outside, the other did it on the inside, and both axle seals are good so it wasn't caused by diff oil getting into them. At least I was able to catch it before they got dried up and caused more problems. I was not impressed with them.
First time I ever heard that issue, but often wonder how the lube can last so long. Have yours been the RP 400 or the MO 400? Can it be determined if yours is a quality bearing, or a knock off?
As I understand it, under some circumstances, the bearing needs to be able to move about to a certain degree. The MO 400 allows for that
Here I used to dis- agree with the Green bearings, and am now defending them !!LOL.................................MO
 
I bought from doc diff, didn't want to buy knock offs, very happy, easy install, gets rid of a dumb design IMHO.
 
I think I have a rear axle bearing going out, So I have been doing some research on the non adjustable Green bearings. Green is actually the name of the company that makes them. They have been bought out by another company, but still retains the Green name .
My best source of Info is from Dr. Differential tech article. ( who could be better??) The early bearings are RP 400 and have a crimped on 5 hole retainer which will not allow for any "wiggle" in the bearing . Most axle housings , even new ones are not perfectly straight. and between tha,t and those bearings are inserted in the housing deeper, results in pre-loading against the thrust block, and can lead to early bearing failure. So-- that must be the reason for the pros and the cons. Those bearings are still being sold by some sources including Mopar Performance parts ( alledgedly)
Now, there is a newer style "Green" bearing, # MO 400 that is installed with a snap ring and supposedly has taken care of the problems the older bearings (has)- had.
In the past, I have been against the use of Green bearings, but with ease of installation, I just might give them a try. ...................................MO

It's amazing what "mass media" can do to make us think our choices are limited. For every size bearing, there are probably a half dozen manufacturers and unfortunately this information is not available to the average consumer. Knowing the I.D., O.D. width and axial deflection desired you can probably buy a much better quality bearing than Green's from such manufacturers like SKF, Timken, New Departure,NSK,RBC and INA. Unfortunately you would have to have knowledge of bearings in general or contact a supplier with your measurements. It is definitely easier to purchase online but that usually leads to a very limited choice.
 
I bought from doc diff, didn't want to buy knock offs, very happy, easy install, gets rid of a dumb design IMHO.
Sorry Dan IMHO couldent disagree more. A tapered bearing has better side loading and is adjustable. Leak prone green bearings mirror the GM corporate 10 and 12 bolt setups that require funky eliminators to be legal in Fast cars, read C-clips. Was Ma-Mopar thinking cheepo in design. NOT, just good engineering.
 
It's amazing what "mass media" can do to make us think our choices are limited. For every size bearing, there are probably a half dozen manufacturers and unfortunately this information is not available to the average consumer. Knowing the I.D., O.D. width and axial deflection desired you can probably buy a much better quality bearing than Green's from such manufacturers like SKF, Timken, New Departure,NSK,RBC and INA. Unfortunately you would have to have knowledge of bearings in general or contact a supplier with your measurements. It is definitely easier to purchase online but that usually leads to a very limited choice.
Not to sure about finding the same bearing from another company on this particular application. I would think that it is manufactured specifically for this use by the Green bearing company. I believe it has two grooves in the race for outside O rings, and a groove in a specific area for a snap ring. ............................MO
 
Sorry Dan IMHO couldent disagree more. A tapered bearing has better side loading and is adjustable. Leak prone green bearings mirror the GM corporate 10 and 12 bolt setups that require funky eliminators to be legal in Fast cars, read C-clips. Was Ma-Mopar thinking cheepo in design. NOT, just good engineering.
And the debate goes on. IMO ( and I have been an ardent timpkin bearing supporter.) Ma Mopar design has its flaws. The bearing does not get lube from the diff. like the GM does. It has to be PROPERLY hand packed. Grease zerk must have been a bad idea, as Mopar only used it for a short time about 1956. I expect over greasing led to grease on the brake shoes. How do you know when they need re-packed? Evidently the axle end play can be deceiving, as my stock new bearing went out in less than 1000 miles and I know I packed with wheel bearing grease. Also went over the end play setting 2-3 times. Maybe upon tear down, we will figger out why it failed.......................MO
 
My set of "green bearings" started leaking at 10k miles. that was diff. oil. Oring? Bearing seals? They dryed up and smoked at 40-50k.Thank God, I was only doing 5 mph when the race slit.
 
My set of "green bearings" started leaking at 10k miles. that was diff. oil. Oring? Bearing seals? They dryed up and smoked at 40-50k.Thank God, I was only doing 5 mph when the race slit.
If that was diff. oil, doesn't that mean your seals that are down in the housing a ways weren't doing their job? ...............MO
 
Sorry Dan IMHO couldent disagree more. A tapered bearing has better side loading and is adjustable. Leak prone green bearings mirror the GM corporate 10 and 12 bolt setups that require funky eliminators to be legal in Fast cars, read C-clips. Was Ma-Mopar thinking cheepo in design. NOT, just good engineering.
 
No worries everyone is in titled to their opinion, that's what makes it interesting. I'm not an engineer just a shop owner who has been repairing cars for the last 40 plus years. I don't see how a single tapered bearing with play calculated into the adjustment can give better side load, perhaps in one direction where it is loaded but not so much in the other. Tapered bearings have always served well as a pair facing each other either under load as pinion or carrier bearings or near 0 as wheel bearings. One of the toughest rears is a Ford 9 inch, they seem to fare quiet well with a similar application like the green bearing for mopar, no c clip just a flange. I for one am happy with the newer green design, it's been around forever and was happy I didn't have to deal with the original design, gone the way of the dodo bird and left hand thread wheel studs.
 
No worries everyone is in titled to their opinion, that's what makes it interesting. I'm not an engineer just a shop owner who has been repairing cars for the last 40 plus years. I don't see how a single tapered bearing with play calculated into the adjustment can give better side load, perhaps in one direction where it is loaded but not so much in the other. Tapered bearings have always served well as a pair facing each other either under load as pinion or carrier bearings or near 0 as wheel bearings. One of the toughest rears is a Ford 9 inch, they seem to fare quiet well with a similar application like the green bearing for mopar, no c clip just a flange. I for one am happy with the newer green design, it's been around forever and was happy I didn't have to deal with the original design, gone the way of the dodo bird and left hand thread wheel studs.


Tapered bearings do serve well as a pair facing each other. This is the design mopar used that we are talking about. --One tapered bearing (left side) is facing the other (right side). The adjustment on the right side takes up the -bearing clearence- of both sides.

A tapered roller bearing design can handle much greater thrust (side) load than a ball bearing style can --for a given size. The rollers are line contact.

"Green bearings" are ball bearings. They are point contact rollers. Side (thrust) loading is point contact on the balls (as well as radial) and is transfered to what holds the races in place.--Snap rings, shoulders,etc.

In either case a bearing failure is -unlikely- in normal use ---unless the material they are made of is inferior.--- By far the leading cause of a bearing failing is from lack of proper lube.
 
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Bearing failure can also be caused by improper installation. Be it over heating it to slide it on the axle, or pressing it on by the outer race. I think the inner axle oil seals should be replaced whenever green bearings are installed. I have used them three times now with no issues.

I once upgraded a ford 9" to a similar set up like green bearings when installing a locker and they went bad after 10,000 miles. Figured the ratcheting action of the locker may have hammered the bearings to death.
 
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