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Guys too many threads to search need help!

Another thing I see that‘s kinda irrelevant but I’m OCD so I seen it. The start relay only has one bolt in it should have two and can see the empty hole right above. So the start relay needs to be moved up and both bolts installed.
Two bolts anchor the relay to prevent it from turning when tightening or loosening the nut fastening the battery positive wire to it.
 
Another thing I see that‘s kinda irrelevant but I’m OCD so I seen it. The start relay only has one bolt in it should have two and can see the empty hole right above. So the start relay needs to be moved up and both bolts installed.
Two bolts anchor the relay to prevent it from turning when tightening or loosening the nut fastening the battery positive wire to it.
Ok I will definitely do that. Thank you! BTW love your Bee!
 
Just gotta say seeing you guys tackle this together is so awesome. I know this is what we see here all the time but it never ceases to amaze me.

Ok, carry on… :lol:
 
Ok I will definitely do that. Thank you! BTW love your Bee!
I put second bolt in relay and found breakout to insert into z slot just waiting on connector I did not have the correct one to use. Be here Thursday. In second pic is where the tach wire comes through firewall and it goes straight to the coil.

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tach wire should be good where it’s at are you running the stock ignition system on the car?
 
Does that make sense?
Kinda does are you saying it’s been changed from points to a mopar electronic
ignition? I asked because the factory tachs
don’t work with some aftermarket ignitions
like for example MSD without a tach signal converter. The original factory tach in 1969 would have been designed for points ignitions.
 
Yes tach works. No aftermarket ignition.
That’s great! so does your reverse light bulbs in the tail lamps light up when you put the trans in reverse?
Also would like to say I love your RR it’s a great looking ride! I would like to see more pics of it do you have a restoration thread started on it?
 
No they do not
Ok so this wire that you will be plugging into terminal Z is not gonna fix that issue. That is for your dash indicator only do you have a multi meter with ohms on it?
 
Ok so this wire that you will be plugging into terminal Z is not gonna fix that issue. That is for your dash indicator only do you have a multi meter with ohms on it?
Yes and btw all signal lights work in back.
 
Yes and btw all signal lights work in back.
Great so do this unplug the two wire connector that’s there near the bulkhead for the reverse light harness.
place the trans in reverse and set your meter to ohms and put your leads across the two terminals in the connector that‘s on the wires going down to the trans. There should be continuity there if not you need to look at the reverse switch and or the connector at the trans.
 
Great so do this unplug the two wire connector that’s there near the bulkhead for the reverse light harness.
place the trans in reverse and set your meter to ohms and put your leads across the two terminals in the connector that‘s on the wires going down to the trans. There should be continuity there if not you need to look at the reverse switch and or the connector at the trans.
 
Ok will do. With or without key on?
Have junkie multi meter here at home, good at work. I should be able do continuity test though.
 
I am not getting continuity.
Ok probably why your reverse lights aren’t working. Next go under the car and check that the wires are connected to the reverse switch and if so unplug them and check continuity at the switch across the two terminals.
 
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