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H.F. Spot Welder, Opinions?

i would never use fluxcore wire to tack panels on..in my post i didnt make that clear,,,..mig/solid wire is what i use with a 50-50 mix of argon/carbon dioxide mix and the metal has to be clean....forget about welding through glue....no good

I concur, NEVER use flux-core for body welds. Too much splatter and very porous when done.

Quench, yep good idea.

Small welds spaced faaaaar apart. Don't weld from one end and go to the other, you will get a gap that you cannot close.

patience, patience, patience.
Randy
 
We did have a new kid out of Tech School not "Quench" his welds on a 56' Bel Air. We spent a lot of wasted time trying to salvage the work, but in the end there was so much filler applied we were better off replacing the panel.

You worked for Boyd Coddington?:rolling:
 
I agree with you and I don't. Maybe over the whole scope of things, Flux core is cooler per material/thickness applied to. I was speaking in reference to quarter panels not the whole generic basics of FCAW welding.


FCAW in not recommended for welding materials 18-20 gauge or thinner. Look it up at Miller, Lincoln, American Welding Society or wherever you want. Taking Flux Core to quarters is like bringing a battleship for bird hunting. There is too much punch (heat!). Also with a larger Diameter wire, it is borderline for precision welding on thinner materials. And with Flux Core you will have slag, more spatter, more porosity. Plus to top it off, it is more difficult to create a sufficent weld (Gun Angle, wire speed, knob settings, Pass movement are critical).

Have you ever FCAW quarters on? I can't even imagine. I've seen floor pans severed beyond repair from it...real ugly. Flux core was never in our train of thought at the body shop as far as body panels. I tell you what, go and ask some other body man to weld on some quarters with Flux Core and see what he tells ya. As far as the Viper goes, yes I can believe that considering they are welding on the frame. If they are in fact welding with Flux core on sheetmetal, I'm sure it's a highly engineered process along with highly engineered equipment. Not Budget Lincoln welders from Home Depot

I'm not one to argue, but I honestly think you took a look at my statement the wrong way and I don't want to see some JoeBagofdonuts to read this thread thinking "I'm gonna go buy flux core welder to weld on my quarters because it runs cooler and it sure is cheaper off the get go." They will be trashing a set of quarters and they are going to be pretty pissed! Might as well tell them to use a stick welder.

So, I'm not mad you "pooped" on my info because you didn't interpret it the right way to begin with.

My apologies first off, we are all here to help...Yes I have used flux core to weld 22 gauge sheet steel, and yes it requires a deft touch and experience to set up the welder correctly. For the record, I have been a collision tech of 20+ years of experience, and I am an instructor that teaches levels 1,2 and 3 collision repair apprenticeship full time for the past 10 years which involves extensive welding including a stint on flux core and MIG brazing as well as TIG and MIG steel and aluminum. I also stated in my reply that I didn't disagree with you or Dantrap on the use of MIG, just clarifying an incorrect statement about FCAW vs MIG. I tend to get too technical from time to time and forget that we are dealing with some folks that are just beginning.

For the record I would recommend MIG...and wouldn't use Flux core to weld on my own vehicle being given the choice.

No offence taken here, and no offence given...

Cheers...
 
You worked for Boyd Coddington?:rolling:

Quenching welds with water is a no-no! Even using compressed air is not a good idea! You risk compromising the weld joint and crystalization of the metal, let alone introducing water into the weld joint area which of course promotes rust. Weld no more than 3/4" at a time allow to cool naturally and hammer weld the weld to relieve the stress noted by over contraction. Most distortion occurs from over contraction of the weld joint which in turn pulls on the crown of the panel. Once the weld is stretched by a hammer on dolly action it relieves the pulling action from the weld to allow the panel to return to its natural state...

I hope that made sense...in a nutshell lesson...

Oops, quoted the wrong post!
 
Thanks for all the help everyone! I have what I need to know for this part. Thanks again! I'll be starting a new thread for part II.
 
Quenching welds with water is a no-no! Even using compressed air is not a good idea! You risk compromising the weld joint and crystalization of the metal, let alone introducing water into the weld joint area which of course promotes rust. Weld no more than 3/4" at a time allow to cool naturally and hammer weld the weld to relieve the stress noted by over contraction. Most distortion occurs from over contraction of the weld joint which in turn pulls on the crown of the panel. Once the weld is stretched by a hammer on dolly action it relieves the pulling action from the weld to allow the panel to return to its natural state...

I hope that made sense...in a nutshell lesson...

Oops, quoted the wrong post!

So at what point are you using the hammer on dolly, after each and every weld as they cool?.
 
The welds may still be warm, even hot as long as the color has left the weld joint. And yes, as I progress through the welding, staggering the welds, welding no more than 3/4" at a time I will stop and stress relieve the weld joint watching/feeling the panel untile it has returned to its original shape. I can weld a patch in the middle of a hood in this fashion with minimal distortion. I do have considerable experience though, and this shouldn't be attempted without practice. Way back when, I had to weld in 1/4 panels on a 68 Charger 1" below the top body line, there wasn't full 1/4's available then, and patience paid off by implementing this method and saved me hours of work. It does require patience and practice but is well worth it in the end. Less filling is fine with me...
 
For proof of this cold contraction (over contraction) of the weld joint, space two pieces of 22 gauge steel approx. 1 mm apart (1/16") and clamp at either end. 4" in length should do...tack weld the centre and then either ends...watch the weld joint disappear, or at least shrink...enough said...
 
For proof of this cold contraction (over contraction) of the weld joint, space two pieces of 22 gauge steel approx. 1 mm apart (1/16") and clamp at either end. 4" in length should do...tack weld the centre and then either ends...watch the weld joint disappear, or at least shrink...enough said...

Thanks for the info brother, very shortly I will be welding up the entire outside skin on the "JUNKYARD DOG" and it will be my first time. I have already done a lot on the under structure and it isn't that dificult but I know it will get trickier welding on the stuff that shows.
 
You're welcome detmatt1, practice your welding on similar materials to get the welder set up properly...make sure your getting penetration through the backside of the panel!
-J
 
You're welcome detmatt1, practice your welding on similar materials to get the welder set up properly...make sure your getting penetration through the backside of the panel!
-J

I will!, I've got a really nice Miller 140 with easy-set and so far it has been very easy to set up and control. Also just bought a dual spot welder which I haven't tried out yet.
 
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