Hardtop roof rail weatherstrip sealing opinions?

[AR67GTX]

Here is a question I’ve pondered since the 60s with my first Plymouth. One of the roof rail weatherstrip on my 66 hardtop Satellite was some odd ball one so I decided to replace both of them and that raised the question in my mind again. I hope there might be some old Chrysler shop guys here who might know the definitive answer.

- Is the outer lip of the roof rail weatherstripping supposed to be caught by the top of the rising quarter panel top of glass - or in the case of the front door the closing glass top - and bent over to seal?

Or, is the top of the glass supposed to slide up in between the main, inner body of the seal with the outer lip outside the glass to seal in the channel formed by the main seal body and the outer lip. This doesn’t work well on the door glass as the window has stop low enough to brush past the lip which wouldn’t accomplish much of a seal.

- Or, is the rear quarter glass supposed to ride up inside the WS channel with the lip to the outside, and the front door glass intended to catch the lip and fold it in to seal. Sort of a combination of the two with the outer lip transitioning at the rear of the door glass.

I suspect it’s either the 2nd or 3rd description that Chrysler engineers intended. In either case the glass needs to be adjusted and weatherstrip lip sort of trained to go in the right direction. When I did my 67 GTX years ago I basically used the 3rd approach but always wondered if that was correct.

Thoughts?

 

[Red63440]

Short side on the outside….

 

[Dan64]

Quarter glass goes up and in between, door glass closes against it but not in between. Yes, outer lip transitions at door glass/ quarter glass. This info is based on what i'm seeing on my 64' Polara, i would imagine yours is the same.

 

[AR67GTX]

Short side on the outside….

For both door and quarter panel glass?

 

[AR67GTX]

Quarter glass goes up and in between, door glass closes against it but not in between. Yes, outer lip transitions at door glass/ quarter glass. This info is based on what i'm seeing on my 64' Polara, i would imagine yours is the same.

Thanks - one vote for door #3.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Nothing in a grove, front or back. The glass lays up beside the seal. Pictures from an original car and although the roof rail seals could use replacement, there are no air or water leaks.

 

[Red63440]

The roof rail seal is one piece from to back including the quarter window. Short side goes towards the outside. If you buy from Metro the are lettered A and B. A is the drivers side B is the passenger side.

 

[AR67GTX]

View attachment 1155133View attachment 1155134
Nothing in a grove, front or back. The glass lays up beside the seal. Pictures from an original car and although the roof rail seals could use replacement, there are no air or water leaks.

Thanks Jerry, that’s a vote for door #1.

Kind of makes a difference on new weatherstripping as the quarter glass usually needs a little training at the start. I had one quarter glass that rolled the outer lip over as you described and the other went up inside the outer lip. Might need a little adjustment of the track.

 

[AR67GTX]

The roof rail seal is one piece from to back including the quarter window. Short side goes towards the outside. If you buy from Metro the are lettered A and B. A is the drivers side B is the passenger side. View attachment 1155159

So, are you saying both quarter and door glass seal by folding the outer lip inward to form a top of glass seal? It is possible to fold the lip in on the door and for the rear glass to ride up inside the lip (door #3). My GTX is evidence of that - it just transitions at the rear of the door glass.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Thanks Jerry, that’s a vote for door #1.

Kind of makes a difference on new weatherstripping as the quarter glass usually needs a little training at the start. I had one quarter glass that rolled the outer lip over as you described and the other went up inside the outer lip. Might need a little adjustment of the track.

You may have to roll the rear quarter windows up in the desired placement and leave in the sun for for a couple of days. Just closing the doors with the windows up will do the same for the front.
Another method is a little adhesive to hold the outer lip in rather than leaving a grove.

 

[Red63440]

It’s all one piece, when you close the door it seals against the tall edge of the seal. When you roll the window up the edge seals against both the top and rear edge of the roof seal.

 

[Jerry Hall]

So, are you saying both quarter and door glass seal by folding the outer lip inward to form a top of glass seal? It is possible to fold the lip in on the door and for the rear glass to ride up inside the lip (door #3). My GTX is evidence of that - it just transitions at the rear of the door glass.

If you let the quarter glass roll up into the grove and let the door glass lay against the seal you will cause a air leak in the area I circled.

 

[Red63440]

For both door and quarter panel glass?

Yes!!

 

[AR67GTX]

Ok, not sure but I’m going to put you down as a second vote for door #1 along with Jerry - which appears to be in the lead.

 

[Dan64]

If you let the quarter glass roll up into the grove and let the door glass lay against the seal you will cause a air leak in the area I circled.
View attachment 1155180

Are the early B's different?, my quarter glass goes between, you can see the difference molded into the rubber.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Are the early B's different?, my quarter glass goes between, you can see the difference molded into the rubber.

The roof rail seals that I have been using come from Metro and there is no molding difference that I have seen. I'm not familiar with earlier B body seals. I'm talking 66-67. I have done some 68-70's but don't remember on those.

 

[Dan64]

The roof rail seals that I have been using come from Metro and there is no molding difference that I have seen. I'm not familiar with earlier B body seals. I'm talking 66-67. I have done some 68-70's but don't remember on those.

Ok, just trying to figure out what's right for a 64-65 as i'm at this point with my rebuild. Guy down the street has a 65' Coronet ( same basic roof) and the 1/4 glass goes between the two "lips" of the seal and the door glass pushes against it when shut. I can't remember who made my roof rail seal but there is a muted difference at the door glass/ 1/4 glass joint. Perhaps the 66-67 cars are different. I to question the ability of the seal to properly seal in that area with one being in the grove and the other against it, maybe Mopar made an improvement in the later years,idk.

 

[AR67GTX]

I’m using Metro seals too. I don’t remember seeing a change at the rear of the door but I’ll take a closer look tomorrow. I kind of hoped an old Chrysler shop mechanic from the 60s who might be on here who might have gotten stuck with fixing and adjusting windows sometimes - but probably not going to happen. It may be one of those things that they didn’t care on the line how the window ended up meeting the weatherstrip and sealed as long as it didn’t leak.

But, I’ll probably try to train it to go with door #1 approach and seal by pressing up and in on the outer lip for both the quarter and door glass.

Thanks