Frank Mopar
Well-Known Member
Fast Fish seal will go in without dropping/loosening the crank.
Have a quick second? Changing the rear main seal as we speak, have questions. ***UPDATE***
- Thread starter mpro69rr
- Start date
Have you used it before? It seemed very thick. I read on this sight you had to drop the crank a little. I should have at least tried it, if this one decides to leak later on I will give it a shot.
Very true, if its leaking something somewhere its a genuine Mopar!I did use a billet retainer from some Mopar source but it used neoprene side seals and also had a beveled recess on the back side to fill with RTV. I did use guide studs and had to seat it a couple of times to make sure the side seals were all the way down - but that pesky oil still seems to have found a way through. I guess it wouldn’t be a genuine Mopar if it didn’t seep a little oil somewhere.
Frank Mopar
Well-Known Member
As I said, changed it without lowering the crank. Slid right up in there.
Moparfever65
Active Member
Just found this video at the Fast Fish site. Never thought of checking the seal on a block with smoke.
IT'S DYNAMITE
Member
THe marks that you see on the crankshaft are "knurl" marks because the original seal going back many years was rope that was installed and formed into place with a Chrysler tool. In about 67 or so they came out with the neoprene replacement which made it so much easier to installed and remove . You have to be careful with installing it so that you don't shave off any of the sealing edge and make sure that the lips of the seal, top and bottom, are facing the correct direction so that the oil is being kept in the crank are and not slanting towards the front of the motor which would cause it to leak. You have to be careful with the aluminum seal retainer side seals. The originals were a special slide in pieces that you would lube with a slight amount of oil to just to help them slide in place. Some of the billet retainer ,Mancini suggest silicone black which is OK but you have to be careful to fill the cavity on the retainer with out any gaps or you will have a leak. I prefer the original slide in seals and think I get a better chance of not leaking. Mancini's billet retainer is great piece and I highly recommend it but the aluminum original seal can work just as well ,just take your time. The cap screws for the retainer need about 12# of torque. Take it easy it isn't holding the rear end in place LOL
mike daugharty
Member
that seal is always a pain in the butt and I think it usually it's like a good woman you gotta work at her a little while before you get anywhere sorry to say but that's been my experience
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