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Having trunk lid rust fixed.

JR_Charger

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I took my trunk in to a body shop to see about having these rusty corners fixed -

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I couldn't figure out how this happened, until I sucked a big mouse nest out of each corner with the shop vac. Thanks, mice!

The body guy quoted me around $300ish, including painting the interior of the lid. The AMD replacement is $800 before shipping and paint, so I guess the repair price is reasonable.

The body guy wants to weld these holes shut, will that be a problem? I've got no idea what they were for.

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Remember that the metal rusted from the inside out, so the backside will be very crusty. Once a guy gets into it, I would think fabbing up some pieces of metal and welding in patches will be what you want to do.
 
Yes, those areas have complicated stamped shapes too, I'm a little dubious about making patch panels for it. If I didn't see so many bad reviews for the fiberglass trunk lid I might go that way, but I don't think I've seen a single good review for the guy who makes the fiberglass trunk lids.
 
Its all good the mice can get out now.
But yeah I would want to look inside there after those pieces are cut out and stop the rust happening on the inside
 
they know exactly how to price the repop parts; figuring most will opt to spend a little more for a new part.......... 300 seems kinda cheap for a thorough and quality repair
 
Over twenty-five years ago I repaired a Cutlass trunk lid with rusted lower corners. Then, after blowing out the dust and rinsing with lacquer thinner, holding the lid straight up (hinge side up) I poured rustoleum into the frame structure until it started running out of the holes for the name plate letters. Then let it dry like that for a week. So far, there are no signs of the rust returning.
 
300 bucks won't even get ya 2 sets of tires installed.
Or 3 oil changes.
That's cheap
 
they know exactly how to price the repop parts; figuring most will opt to spend a little more for a new part.......... 300 seems kinda cheap for a thorough and quality repair
And painted .
 
We do what we have to when no repo parts are available. This was after spending $500 for a pair of "really good" doors for a 64 D100.
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This is my first attempt at any real kind of bodywork- be gentle.

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Its all good the mice can get out now.

I'm seriously considering cutting access holes there, since I had to push the mouse nest out on one side to remove it. The shop vac wasn't strong enough on it's own.

I don't care about keeping the car "correct."

300 bucks won't even get ya 2 sets of tires installed.
Or 3 oil changes.
That's cheap

The cost of living here is cheap, and the amount of money to be made is proportionally small.
 
I took my trunk in to a body shop to see about having these rusty corners fixed -

View attachment 1647998
View attachment 1647999

I couldn't figure out how this happened, until I sucked a big mouse nest out of each corner with the shop vac. Thanks, mice!

The body guy quoted me around $300ish, including painting the interior of the lid. The AMD replacement is $800 before shipping and paint, so I guess the repair price is reasonable.

The body guy wants to weld these holes shut, will that be a problem? I've got no idea what they were for.

View attachment 1648000
 
Lucky the rust is all on the inside. Mine on my 72 Charger had rust along the outside back bottom lip as well as the back part inside. The previous owner had all the paint redone except he skipped the trunk lid cause his pro said it was not worth repairing. I repaired and painted it myself costing much labour but only a few dollars. Mine had mice too but it did not appear to be the cause of the rust.
 
I've stripped the black paint off and only found a few more surface rust spots and a couple little holes around the other rusted out holes.

Figured out that the two holes I looked at are for drainage. Unless someone else knows different, but they look like the lowest parts of the trunk lid.
 
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