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Grendel lives...resurrection of a 1970 Charger 500

I like the "how much do I need" questions. What, you can't do math? Don't know how to operate a tape measure or other measuring device? How much area do you want to cover? Floors? Doors? Roof? Trunk? Firewall? Quarter panels?
 
I like the "how much do I need" questions. What, you can't do math? Don't know how to operate a tape measure or other measuring device? How much area do you want to cover? Floors? Doors? Roof? Trunk? Firewall? Quarter panels?
It would sure be easier to know how much you need if your entire floor and door surfaces were completely flat and nice, easy 90-degree angles...no curves or bends, no holes, obstructions, etc. :lol:
 
True. But it can still be figured out if unsure. Thanks for the feedback.
 
If you went solely by measurements without somehow taking into account all the aforementioned obstacles, you could certainly get a ballpark coverage number, but I bet you'd end up with a LOT of waste leftover product.
 
Grendel is a good name. 7 letters, starts with G.
I have Griffon and Grolsch, both sail boats.
Noddy, one of my bikes, is British racing green, a similar colour.
 
Time to dig the seatbelts out of the bag they've been sitting in for over 20 years. Not a sexy update, unfortunately.

A pic of the rear belts, they looked pretty cruddy, but surprisingly no rust. I thought I'd have to give them a soak in black RIT dye to restore the color, but after a good scrubbing with stiff plastic bristle brush and Dawn dish soap and hot water, then a dunk & rinse in a bucket of hot water, they came out quite nice.

RearSeatbelts_Before.jpg
RearSeatbelts_Done1.jpg


While they were still a bit wet, I dipped all the metal ends and buckles in a margarine container of WD-40 to chase away the moisture and gave the parts a wipe-down.
The buckles on the front belts all had some minor surface rust and both of these mounting edges were pretty rusty; I'll scuff it up a bit and brush on some Corroseal to prevent further oxidation.

FrontSeatbeltRust.jpg


Of course, I didn't come away unscathed; this rubber boot from one of the front belts was ripped; I'll see if someone has a spare in the WTB section:

FrontSeatbeltBoot.jpg
 
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Gas pedal refurb...I had 2 pedals, but my original was too far gone with rust everywhere underneath the rubber coating, I had to toss it. Another one I bought years ago and planning to install needed some work to restore it, though. The rubber coating on the bottom was peeling off, but fortunately the only rust was on the bottom raised rectangular part. I cut away the loose rubber with a razor blade and scuffed & degreased the rusty areas.

GasPedal_Before.jpg
GasPedal1.jpg


Then, followed that up with a few coats of DOM16 to kill the rust and prevent it from ever happening again. Lastly, I had an idea to restore the rubber coating I cut away, and improve the cracked rubber areas by applying a few heavy coats of Plasti Dip. I scuffed up the cured & hardened DOM16 with 400-grit, degreased again and slathered on a few wet coats. I also touched up the top surface of the rectangular part that bolts to the floor because the rubber there was showing some stress cracks where the pedal flexes with the base.

All in all, I think it turned out great, and should last the rest of Grendel's lifetime.

GasPedal-Done1.jpg
GasPedal-Done2.jpg
 
I kept running into niggling issues keeping me from wrapping up my new carpet job. One issue is that I discovered my body man drilled the holes for the accelerator pedal at least an inch and a half too far forward. I had to block off those holes and need to drill new ones for the pedal to be positioned properly relative to the brake pedal. Another issue was this grommet for the brake cable hole, it's old and brittle and won't re-seat. I fortunately had a grommet from a big body plug set that worked perfectly, and found another random grommet that worked for the bottom hole where the cable routes through the crossmember under the body.

When I installed one of the grommets (the bottom one in the pic on the right), I noticed this open hole in the crossmember to the left of the cable. Should there be a plug there? What's that hole for?

Grommet.jpg
MysteryHole.jpg
 
I got finished installing my carpets, the location of the accelerator pedal frustrated me. I figured since the pedal position is probably the most important part of the carpet installation, all I'd need to do is get it located at the top right corner of the heel pad, mark holes and everything else would line up...but with this ACC carpet, that was anything but true. With my carpet pushed as far forward on the firewall right up to the steering column, and even a bit higher than that, and cutting a curve around the column, the heel pad on this carpet was nowhere close to where the pedal needed to be. If I yanked the carpet any more forward, the way it was molded, nothing would lay down properly. I remember someone else on here mentioned they had the same issue. I had to settle and locate the gas pedal just above the heel pad, it's as far back as I could mount it and still have it function properly. Looking at lots of photos online, it seemed like most correct pedal installs had about 2/3 of the pedal below the adjacent brake pedal, and only about 1/3 above, so I tried to match that.

AcceleratorPedal.jpg


I then dielectric-greased all the wire connectors at the driver side kick panel, and reconnected everything.

My car's original interior was white, and looked like *** after so many decades, I'm re-doing the whole interior black. Here are some door panels with about 3 coats of SEM's vinyl dye, Color Coat, beside the original blue front door panels, I'll need to mask those off and do them next.

DyedDoorPanels.jpg
 
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I replaced my roof rail weatherstripping this weekend. After wrestling with the passenger side, I wanted to document a proper how-to guide for the driver side, as most of what I found online pretty much amounted to "start at the front and press it in". There's a whole lot more to it than that, so here's a first-timer's guide to how to install your B-Body roof rail weatherstripping with clear instructions.

The old weatherstrip removes most easily from the rear, behind the quarter window; pull it up from there and move all the way to the front. The very front might be stuck in a bit, there shouldn't be any adhesive but maybe some rust might mean you have to tear it off from there.

The new weatherstrips are several inches too long, at least for a '70 Charger. Match up a new weatherstrip with the old one, and cut it off maybe a half inch longer than the one you pulled off.

For installing the new weatherstrip, all I used was fingers/thumbs and a plastic body panel tool like this:

RoofRailWeatherstrip2.jpg


If you look closely at the inside of the weatherstrip--note that there are obviously left and right sides--the front inside upper edge has a square notch in it. If you look closely at the metal channel where you need to install it, there's a square metal clip in there. That's where you will start, to line things up.

RoofRailWeatherstrip1.jpg


You see the metal clip on the left side of the channel above that upper screw:

RoofRailWeatherstrip3.jpg


While I was in here, I discovered the windshield corner trim retaining clip that I thought was missing; it's just not overtly visible as it's underneath the weatherstrip. I'd already bought new ones and installed the new one on the driver side, where the corner trim is raised up too much. Unfortunately it didn't make much difference, I will have to look into that at a later time.

RoofRailWeatherstrip4.jpg


Anyway, the way I found to get the weatherstrip seated properly, and it can be rather frustrating, is to seat in the bottom edge of the weatherstrip first, then press in some of the upper edge of weatherstrip with your thumbnail until you can carefully jam it all the way inside the metal trim channel with the plastic panel tool.

RoofRailWeatherstrip5.jpg


The whole A-pillar process will fight you because the upper areas of weatherstrip will want to fall back down until you get things firmly started. Just keep at it, an inch at a time, until you reach the upper corner. Once you have the weatherstrip tucked into the corner, the rest of it becomes much easier. Just tuck in the bottom edge first, then press in the upper edge with the tool. You can then run the tool back and forth between top and bottom edges and everything should smooth out. At the end of the quarter window, stuff the little extra bit of strip in the hole there and finish tucking in top & bottom edges.

RoofRailWeatherstrip-Done1.jpg


RoofRailWeatherstrip-Done2.jpg


RoofRailWeatherstrip-Done3.jpg
 
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I didn't want to put my console back in the car with one scorched white lens cap. I got to thinking how I could fabricate a cool mod using some 40mm diameter acrylic disks and tube. This pic shows the materials for my mod, including some green LEDs to replace the original bulbs:

ConsoleLightMod1.jpg


I noted that the LED bulbs are much longer and protrude beyond where the original lens cap would be seated:

ConsoleLightMod2.jpg


That's why I had to cut some short sections of the acrylic tube for the disks to clear the bulbs. I then frosted the inside and edge surfaces of the disks with 400-grit sandpaper to diffuse the light. I left the section of tube clear though, here they are glued together with some 5-minute clear epoxy:

ConsoleLightMod3.jpg


Original lens look; boring:

ConsoleLightMod4.jpg


New look after I printed some black Fratzogs on clear inkjet sticker paper, followed by several coats of wheel gloss clear to protect the stickers from lifting; way cooler! They're glued in place with 5-minute epoxy.

ConsoleLightMod5.jpg


And the final mod with LEDs test-lighted--with help from my daughter--with a 9V battery; unfortunately the cellphone pic of the light looks very washed out and almost white due to the brightness instead of a beautiful green. I had to take a second pic with the brightness decreased to better show the actual color:

ConsoleLightMod7.jpg

ConsoleLightMod8.jpg
 
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My original console had a broken rear section. Years ago I bought a burgundy donor console with a good rear section, carefully sawed it off and bolted it onto my black console. I also touched up the flaking black painted areas. I then repainted the plastic with Trim Black:

Console_Before2.JPG

Console_After_Full2.JPG

Console_BeforePaint1.JPG

Console_Finished2.jpg
 
After managing to get my repro glovebox cardboard inserted, it was time to clean up and reinstall the glovebox door. As for the cardboard box, and I haven't seen this detail mentioned anywhere, but it doesn't simply insert from the inside and bolt on. Only the bottom horizontal piece gets bolted on to the inside of the frame perimeter. The left & right side and upper edge do not bolt onto the inside of the perimeter; they must be pushed deeper into the frame so that they can be slipped outside the perimeter frame and pulled forward to line up the bolt holes. I noticed this because the upper and both side areas of the cardboard box have captured washer-nuts so that when you install the screws, it pulls in the cardboard to the outside surface of the frame. Here's a pic I drew to hopefully clarify how it installs, to save others some frustration. The black rectangle is the glovebox frame; the red represents the cardboard box insert. I think most of us tried jamming everything into the inside of the frame and of course, it's too tight to fit.

GloveboxCardboardMounting.jpg

While I had access to the fuse block, I unscrewed it to take a look. It was so coated in dust and I believe greyish white primer overspray from the bodywork last winter that I could barely even make out the individual connectors. I gave it a blast with some compressed air, then a good shot of electrical contact cleaner, and was surprised how nice it cleaned up. I had to wrap a little electrical tape on some slightly exposed wires on that big red positive wire at the top right where the shrink tube didn't quite cover the wire. The empty spade connector at the top left corner had a connector with positive red wire that ran about 6 inches and was cut. I believe that was for a stereo I used to have installed many years ago. I removed the spade connector.

GloveboxFuseBlock.jpg
 
So I gave the door a good cleaning and set about reinstalling all the screws. Sure enough, the first screw at the bottom left just kept turning, and wouldn't you know it, the plastic mounting post had broken off. :mad:

BrokenMountingPost.jpg


I came up with a nice way to fix this. Simply gluing that plastic post back to the inner plastic surface would never hold up.

I decided that I'd cut a piece of aluminum, drill & tap a hole to thread in a mounting screw, and epoxy the aluminum repair piece to the inside. The aluminum section when epoxied in would have plenty of bonding surface area to be strong enough to screw into. I drilled the hole one size smaller than the mounting screw and used one of the old screws to make a tap, cutting in a few notches with a thin Dremel disk. I tapped the aluminum with the same thread.

GloveboxRepair1.jpg
GloveboxRepair2.jpg
GloveboxRepair3.jpg


I used some 5-minute epoxy to cement the threaded repair piece to the underside of the glovebox metal. Now when the hinge is bolted back on, it will look no different than original.

GloveboxRepair4.jpg
 
Turning my attention to the original white upper door pads. Quite dirty and some significant cracks. Someday I'll just buy repros but I want to see what can be done with these. Here are some pics before & after cleaning and degreasing; not a huge difference. They should look a whole lot better after dyeing them black. Before I spray them, I want to do something to fill in some of the bigger cracks in the vinyl.

UpperDoorPads_Before.jpg
UpperDoorPads_AfterCleaning.jpg
 
Glovebox mounting post repair done:

GloveboxRepair_Done.jpg


Glovebox reinstalled. I had to pull the latch "U" forward as much as it would go so that the glovebox door will close firmly. Note the notch I probably wouldn't have had to cut out of the left corner if I'd figured out that the sides and upper edges had to be positioned outside the frame perimeter instead of inside. Oh well, like in Risky Business, sometimes you just gotta say "WTF". :) I gave it a wipe with 303 Aerospace Protectant.

Also note the green overspray on the right side of the dash plate woodgrain trim...how might I remove that without messing up the woodgrain finish?

Glovebox_Done1.jpg


Glovebox_Done2.jpg


The sagging center lower dash plastic will be replaced; it was originally chopped up by yours truly to install a pull-out stereo back in the 80's. Unfortunately there's still one screw holding it in from the inside that I think has the head stripped. It'll be a bit of fun removing it...
 
I lowered the steering column a bit and was able to disconnect everything from the back of the instrument panel and got it removed. Shot the inside with compressed air while running the shop vac, they wiped/brushed everything I could reach with Sprayway cleaner. I was pleased how things cleaned up quite nicely and wasn't the nightmare I was worried about, having never had the panel out.

DashWiring.jpg


I applied dielectric grease to every connector and bulb housing to prepare for reinstallation. With the panel out, the woodgrain plate on either side was coming unglued. More 5-minute epoxy and hopefully I'll get the woodgrain cemented back to the instrument panel and it won't flop loose anymore.

DashWoodgrainSeparating.jpg
DashWoodgrainFix.jpg
 
I'll be replacing all the bulbs with LEDs. One odd thing I discovered is one of the black twist-on bulb housings was completely missing. Can you buy those black housings anymore? I see the kind with pigtails but not these twist-in housings.

CircuitBoard_MissingBulbPlug.jpg
 
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