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Hawaiian 512 Stroker Build

Yikes! What brand? Total Seal? Hasting's?
How do you know when there is ring flutter? Noise? After disassembly? The blow-by?

(Running a 4.5" bore with Total Seals)

Ring flutter? How did we know? The blow-by meter went berserk. So we kept opening the 2nd ring gap and it finally settled down.

On a normally aspirated street, strip, circle track application and 4.500" bore conventional ring, I would be going .020" top ring gap and .026" second ring gap.

Look at the Total Seal web page and see the recommended gaps. Look at the 2nd ring gap on the Gapless top ring. Why do you suppose they open the 2nd ring gap on a top ring they expect to seal tightly? If you seal a conventional top ring tightly why wouldn't the same reasoning apply?

http://www.totalseal.com/pdf/GAPCHART.pdf


I really feel like the 2nd ring is more of a secondary oil scraper ring than a compression ring. Figure on the top ring to seal the cylinder. Use the tightest safe gap you have the courage to use, and let the built up gasses escape by the 2nd ring.

Even Cummins diesel engines now use a .060" 2nd ring gap on a 4.00" bore.
 
I always thought a 512 was with a .060 bore. So what is 512 a 4.25 stroke 4.35 piston on a 7.1 rod?
4.250 X 4.350 IS 505, 440 SOURCE used to call all their 4.250 stroke stuff 512. on a 440, .060 over w/ 4.250 stroke is 512. All engine builders will tell you to line hone if switching to studs, very, very rarely do the studs not change anything!
 
All engine builders will tell you to line hone if switching to studs, very, very rarely do the studs not change anything!

That's not really true. Many do. Some don't. Question is, do you really need it? Opinions will vary
 
Shortcuts on a $10,000 engine ?
I see you feel strongly about it. But it is done all of the time with no affect at all, no evidence of an issue on inspection on 700 HP engine's at $10,000+.
 
On the big bores at rpm (about 4,000+), we found we were getting ring flutter and big blow-by until we opened the second ring gap to .025-.026".

I called the ring manufacture and told them and they said, "Yeah we know."

So I told them their instruction sheet still said to have a tight ring gap on the second ring!

Their answer was, "Yeah, we know."

What the heck! Do they have hundreds of boxes with bad instructions they are just trying to use up?

Thanks for the info IQ52, I have heard the second ring gap should be larger, but was not sure how large. Was that the 1/16" or 5/64" rings, or does it even matter?
 
I line bore not hone
and with the torque plates on
as a poster above said- it does make a difference
on the oiling
I use half grove bearings and get full time oiling with crank drillings
you loose a lot of support with the gorve- much more than the width of the groove
but - whatever works
the poster using the half grooves pays attention to detail- a must
 
Thanks for the info IQ52, I have heard the second ring gap should be larger, but was not sure how large. Was that the 1/16" or 5/64" rings, or does it even matter?
Our test was with 1/16 rings. I would still use more gap with 5/64.
 
Hello fine people of FBBO,

I have been working on my motor ever since this post started. I have the engine in the car and just buttoning up the little things which are kicking my but with time and money nowhere in sight. Ive had issues with all sorts of things. I will upload some pics to freshen up this thread. Please comment if you got any questions. Also any advice for installing a Lokar oil dip stick. I broke one and thinking of trying again when lokar gets back to me. Also anybody want to but a D.U.I. distributor?

20180617_142019.jpg 20180619_162811.jpg 20180528_082558.jpg 20180606_114808.jpg 20180619_161703.jpg 20180622_095402.jpg 20180617_141053.jpg
 
It sounds really nice. Good job! I am building a similar engine to yours. My block is still at the machine shop. Going to be a 440 source 512 also.
 
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