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Help Me Choose Rocker Arms!

To lewtot's point point about correct valvetrain geometry,
How many guys take the time (or are even aware) to move the the shafts around to achieve the best geometry REGARDLESS of whatever arms they are using?
Aren't harland sharp arms known to be way too long for proper setup given stock architecture?
Point being, incorrect setup is not specific to ductile iron arms.
 
I'm not taking anything away from lewtot's statement but well known to whom? Your the only one saying this. Where has it been written?
 
This has become more than frustrating....
RAU bushing service (just talked to Hector) price to hard chrome shaft and bush rockers.... $500. And that is me sending him my stuff. So these rocker arms are going to cost more than a set of complete aluminum heads! I'm either going to run them as is on Mancini hard chrome shafts or send them back and get roller bearing rockers.....which have problems spitting needle bearings out into the engine. Damned if I do, damned if I don't.
 
For the price, this probably the best aluminum body, non-roller fulcrum rocker arm for the big block. It's made by Harland Sharp.

http://www.manciniracing.com/b15alrowibih.html

These are my first choice for non-roller fulcrum rockers at your spring pressures. Inspect the bushings for proper location before using.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1621-16/overview/make/chrysler

Always disassemble any rocker arm system, deburr, clean and lube them before use. Especially the rocker shafts and their bolt and rocker lubrication holes.
 
I'm over it. Going to run them on MRE hardened shafts. Mancini said run em, Crane said run em, and my engine builder friend Gary P. said run em.
 
T&D make a fine rocker arm.
TandD.JPG
 
I run these Hughes which are just roller tip rockers. I bought them around 2010 and I also use the Hughes holddown kit. I run a solid flat tappet cam also with about 140 spring pressure on the seat. They have been in my eng since June 2011 when I fired it up and they are holding up great. I adjust my valves once a year as its a street car and most of the time barely any are off at all. They are 1.6 rockers as I got a good deal on them so I went with the 1.6 rockers. Ron


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Hey Threewood, where did you read the bad reviews of the PRW rockers? I would like to read them myself. As far as rocker arm geometry goes, check out www.b3racingengines.com some interesting reading about this topic.

I did a google search and found several cases of the roller not sitting flush with the valve stem. That was the major issue and I didn't find anyone with them in stock for some reason. They do look like nice pieces but I am certain they are off shore manufacture too. If they would have been in stock I would have tried them out.
 
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