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I see. Then I just drill a hole in the set screw to match the size opening I want?
Yes, and I always measure the bits at the shank with a caliper to verify they're the size they're supposed to be, and make a chart/list/whatever. It helps for reference or if the drill index spills (it happens LOL!)
Yes, you’ll need a numbered drill set
Are the 6-32's 1/8" or 1/4"?
@68 HEMI GTS I just checked my new proform metering block and it isn’t tapped already for the lower holes. They look like they will be tricky to tap. Question, if this is what is needed to properly tune a Holley then why doesn’t Holley make these ports tunable?
IFRs on the bottom are usually better, but if they're in the high position just go with them for now. Or did they not give you replaceable IFRs at all? I would think an aftermarket block would? Here's the factory stock primary block from a Quick Fuel '750 Street-Q'.. (You want the 1/8" long screws btw)
Are brass mandatory or can I use stainless set screws? I can’t find any brass local, just stainless. I understand that stainless will be harder to drill out.
Just me, I wouldn't use stainless...you're correct that they're harder to drill, but the bigger issue is they will not get along well with the metering block material. You can get brass from McMaster-Carr. Summit also has quick fuel branded blanks, part# 7-25-10QFT. But- these have a small head on them, so you may have to drill the first part of the hole slightly bigger to accommodate.
Beanhead is correct. Those little drills will never go through the stainless. Gotta use brass.