• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Help, no spark.

68Dodge

Member
Local time
7:31 AM
Joined
Jun 25, 2013
Messages
20
Reaction score
0
Location
United States
Help!!!...Been working on this for weeks and can't figure it out.
I have a 68 Coronet with a 440 and Electronic Distributor. The Electronic Distributor is 6 months old (converted from points last December). I live in Nevada, so it's dry. The winter is cool, so haven't had the car in the extreme heat yet. The car used to start fine when it's cold, but after you shut it off and sit for 10mins, it wouldn't start until it was cold again. Only has 60 miles on the new electronic distributor. Now, it won't start at all. No spark. So, below are all the testing and current issues.

* Replaced with new, 2 prong ballast resistor, voltage regulator, 4 pin ECU, and coil.
* Bought a new pickup coil and the ohm resistance is exactly same as current one. So, did not swap out.
* Both Voltage Regulator and ECU is grounded to the Engine Block and Body
* Checked all the wiring, no melted wires and checked with ohm meter from end to end. All is good.

So, when the key is in the on/run position:
* Ballast resistor smokes and coil gets hot.
* Using a test light, I get bright light on positive and no light on negative side of coil. I get bright light on power side of the ballast resistor and dim on the other side. I get bright light on both sides of the voltage regulator. I shut it off before anything burns.

After extensive testing and disconnecting anything that is not part of the ignition, this is what I've found.

* If I pull the ECU from the firewall and don't ground it, everything checks out. But I haven't tried starting it yet to see if this works. When I use the test light, I get a bright light on the positive side of the coil and the negative, ballast resistor, and voltage regulator.

* If I leave the ECU on the firewall and ground, I can disconnect Blue/Yellow wire from the ECU to the ballast resistor, then the smoking stops and the coil stops heating. When I use the test light, I get a bright light on the positive side of the coil and the negative.

How do I fix this issue? I look through the wiring diagram, followed the electrical current. I just don't understand this electrical enough figure this out. I hope someone can help. I've attached a diagram to help visualize and anyone who can add notes to it. Thanks for any help.

ECUSetup.JPG
 
Put your test light back in the tool box and get a ohm and voltmeter. The proper procedures for testing has been posted on this site numerous times. You will find the problem much faster with less headache.
Happy hunting
 
It sounds like you have a bad ignition box. I had a stock do what you describe. The REAL problem was a wire that I had pinched under the corner of my intake manifold that kept shorting out ignition boxes.
 
Or you could have a shorted primary side winding in the coil.
Coil should get mildly warm, and ballast should not be so hot as to smoke.
Check primary winding resistance.
I don't ever want such headaches, I love electronic stuff that works for mechanical reasons.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top