Help please, are these pistons mounted correct?

[Garys1969RR]

Boy, that looks like a bullet proof bottom end. What with the billet main caps and studs. And the stud girdle. Too bad the assembler didn't understand the correct alignment of pistons and rods! It can be honed with the crank in, but since all the pistons will be out anyway, why not just pull the crank and do it right? Usually the reason for leaving the crank in is because only 1 or 2 cylinders need a ball hone. I re honed one cyl on a 440 once with the engine still in the car. Worked out fine. Good luck.

 

[RustyRatRod]

That's the reason I was sayin to bring it all the way back down. It looks like a lotta money invested and you need to make sure it's RIGHT. Like Gary said, since all of the rods and pistons have to come out anyway, I would do it. We can always help you with remote control if you get stuck with somethin. The last thing I would want to see happen to all that is it come apart because you missed something you could have caught while you had it back apart. That's a lotta nice stuff there.

 

[cdr]

IT NEEDS TO ALL COME APART honed & washed with hot soapy water ,then blow dry with compressed air & oil the cyl's so they dont rust,i would replace mains & rod bearings & rings.if your going to try & short cut it, just give it all to me so i can finish my car.

 

[SwedCharger67]

So i took the engine apart and at least the cylinder one connection rod seems to be installed the right way i think. I would appreciate some input ...

I was told by 440Source that the matching cap and rod numbers should always face outward and never towards the cam.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

I was told by 440Source that the matching cap and rod numbers should always face outward and never towards the cam.

easy way to remember is bearing tangs face the pan rail on Chryslers and Chevys. Fords face inward. the rods will have to be flipped.

it should be taken all the way apart, no telling what else is wrong with it. It would also be the right time to drill it for a 1/2 pickup. if the bearings are ok you can reuse them. try to keep them paired with what ever rod/main they were clamped in. moving them around on the crank (for the rods) won't hurt anything. it'll need a touch hone and a set of rings. probably has those funny spots in the cylinders because it might have been honed without plates. hard to tell without throwing a bore gauge in it. i'd want to pull the crank to look at the main bearings, i don't care what personal issues he was going through, to put the short block together with the pistons upside down is just ridiculous for anyone who claims to be an engine builder. i'd hate to measure his machine work.....

 

[Coronet1965SWE]

Now i am confused, isnt this correct?



Both the bearing tangs and the text is facing the outside of the engine, i have taken them all out and they were all the same.

I will talk to the "engine" guy tomorrow and see what he has to say.

Thanks for all the help so far.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

thats correct but when you put the pistons the right direction they will be facing in and have to be flipped

 

[MikeStahl]

yes the rods r correct....pistons r not will have to take pistons off and rotate to the correct position and if i remember at least 4 & 6 need to swap holes

Mike

 

[Coronet1965SWE]

Aha, i have them disassembled now so that bit will be ok.

 

[MikeStahl]

Good job!!! how much fun were the spiral locks...lol

 

[Garys1969RR]

OK they look great! Now start by assigning each piston to a respective cylinder. Make sure the raised flat area is at the top, or valley side of the block. Also make sure the ex valve notches on 2 end ones are at outside end of block, 2 center pistons have ex valve notches towards inside or center of block. They will be next to each other on these 2. Then take a magic marker and put an arrow on top of each piston pointing towards front of engine. Also write the cylinder number the piston goes to. Driver side is 1-3-5-7 , Passenger side is 2-4-6-8, except in England . Lol. Good luck!

 

[Coronet1965SWE]

Does anyone know the tightening torque for the connection rod bolts?

It is the H-beam rods from 440source with 7/16" ARP 8740 190,000 PSI bolts.

I dont have the documentation left (if there was any).

Thanks.

 

[SwedCharger67]

Does anyone know the tightening torque for the connection rod bolts?
It is the H-beam rods from 440source with 7/16" ARP 8740 190,000 PSI bolts.
I dont have the documentation left (if there was any).
Thanks.

I have the same type of rods: There is a page of info from 440Source coming with the rods.
It says lubricate the bolts under the head and on the threads with the supplied ARP assembly lube (it says within brackets "never use oil").
Torque spec is 60 ft/lbs with the ARP lube.

Here is the weight matching I did today of my 512 440Source kit for the B-block.

 

[RustyRatRod]

...

 

[Garys1969RR]

...

Well 65 Coronet, How is the engine assembly going? Did you get all the pistons on the rods in the right direction? Is it all together now? Haven't heard from you for a few weeks. Do you have an update? Thanks

 

[Supershafts]

I hope he did, but it's been a little while

- - - Updated - - -

Does anyone know the tightening torque for the connection rod bolts?

It is the H-beam rods from 440source with 7/16" ARP 8740 190,000 PSI bolts.

I dont have the documentation left (if there was any).




Thanks.

it is 63 ft lbs
.

 

[Coronet1965SWE]

Hi, the engine is assembled and mounted in the car. Now i have to check the angle before final tightening so i get it right for the new driveshaft and rearaxle centersection.

 

[68383GTS]

Wow