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Help with Ralleye dash PC board and fuel gauge

440beep

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Since my 69 Ralleye dash is out of the car I figured I’d wire in the MeterMatch VR to the fuel gauge. A couple things have me confused

Blue wire - supposed to be hooked to the signal from sender.

White wire - hooked to signal to gauge

Looking at the FSM wire diagram, does the blue wire get hooked to “fuel gauge sender” lead, and the white wire gets hooked straight to the gauge back? That seems odd.

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Not sure if this helps but my understanding is the meter match has the voltage regulator built into the unit. So the original one is disconnected from the gauge. I’m still trying to adjust my gauge in my 74 Charger and it’s proving tricky. I have put in an Autometer dash setup so the original 5 volt pulse is eliminated anyway. Check the metermatch site as well for more info.

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Just cut the blue wire over by the kick panel. Splice the meter match blue to the side going to the tank and splice the white to the other side going to the gauge.
 
The one you have will require you isolating the fuel gauge from the printed circuit board. A lot more screwing around. For the most parts the factory gauge can not use the power feed from the limiter. It gets fed from the meter match orange box. So you need to somehow cut the feed which would mean modifying the factory circuit board.
 
So I said f*ck it and left that Metermatch off and put the dash back together and WTF?!? All of a sudden the fuel gauge is reading better and thinks it’s accurate as it should be roughly 3/4 full. I merely cleaned up the PCB Board contacts and made sure the lock nuts were tight. Really hope this isn’t short lived. The solid state dash voltage limiter should be here later this week and swapping that in.

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