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Holley Sniper on '71 Charger: install thoughts/opinions

So...now that Holley released the Sniper 2, are the original Sniper kits not as desirable? I have the Sniper kit still in the box. Now I have to decide if I want to sell it and go with the newer system or just go with it. Hope to start putting the motor this year....( long term project)
So...now that Holley released the Sniper 2, are the original Sniper kits not as desirable? I have the Sniper kit still in the box. Now I have to decide if I want to sell it and go with the newer system or just go with it. Hope to start putting the motor this year....( long term project)
I have the same dilemma. Holley is selling a Sniper2 "upgrade" that uses the existing harness etc. But I'm not clear on what existing components the Sniper2 uses, i.e. does it still use/need the Hyperspark box or not?? Also, they don't seem to have a "complete package" as they do/did with the Sniper. I need some clarity on the product offering!
From what I can tell, the Sniper 2 appears to be the same as the first version. It's just like everything else in life that's "new and improved' - same thing just costs more now than before. If I still had the first version I'd run it, there is nothing inherently wrong with it. Just make sure it has the latest firmware. I've been known to buy things that sit around for way too long before being used but if it never came out of the box it's still new.

Regardless of the version, the external ignition and fuel components are all still needed. I could be wrong but I don't believe there was ever a package offered that included everything, meaning the ignition parts.

One thing that the Sniper 2 utilizes is a "PDM" or Power Distribution Module to make wiring easier. If I was considering a Sniper 2, I would definitely be buying the PDM. One could probably use it with the first version as well but I'm not 100% sure of that so confirm that for yourself before you pull the trigger on one. I thought it looked like a nice idea to simplify wiring and actually bought one to use with a Terminator X system I'm using on another car but got burned on it because it only works with the Sniper.

Supposedly the new design is less susceptible to RFI. It is certainly true that RFI can be a factor with these systems - it's a digital ECU sitting on top of an intake made of conductive material. Even the air cleaner stud can cause of it. Thse types of electronic parts are probably more at home on modern engines than our antiquated ones especially with things like long pulsing ignition wires hanging all over the place and mechanical parts that rely on eletromagnetism like a canister coil or voltage regulator or starter motor.

I've experienced the effect of RFI myself though in my case it wasn't causing the thing to shut off or what have you. It was also intermittent and really hard to pin down the exact cause of it. This might be getting a bit in the weeds for some but it was basically creating gaps in the data. You can see it manifested in the log traces when you magnify them, the stream drops out for like a 6th of a second maybe? It's almost imperceptible unless you magnify the trace in the log viewer to the maximum and mark the data points. Kinda like a string of lights that loses a bulb but still stays on.

The stream would always pick back up and sometimes in a slightly different spot so there ends up being these 'gaps' that don't contain any data. My theory is those little lost bits reduce the amount of data the learn table uses to make it's determinations so it maybe it just takes a bit longer to reach a set paramater? I really don't know for sure. Just know in severe cases RFI can reset the whole data stream to zero and that's when it will be a real problem.

They were right to work that into the update though because #1, people suck at wiring and will invariably do the exact opposite of what the instructions say ensuring the chances of RFI causing problems are increased tenfold and #2, people read about RFI on the internet (like here) and how it causes problems and will automatically blame whatever trouble they're having on it whether it's the actual problem or not.

The RFI idea should not scare you away from the Sniper either because there's just as much of a chance it won't be a problem at all. They also never say they eliminated it completely in the 2nd version so that should tell you that it's the nature of the beast. Either way, if you take the time to understand it a little bit you can reduce the chances of it being a factor by being conscientious with your wiring. Read that to mean you will have to be fully aware of what the instructions are telling you when you're doing the initial install and then once the thing is running, you need to be willing to get into data logging to see what's going on.

That was all off the top of my head so as always, do your own homework!
One thing that the Sniper 2 utilizes is a "PDM" or Power Distribution Module to make wiring easier.
For what it does it is extremely overpriced !!!

The "2" would definitely be a cleaner install - considerably less wiring than the Sniper.

As for the wiring, there are some very good wiring vids and articles out there. Of particular importance are dedicated grounds an positives - and those are well explained in the vids and articles.

In my opinion, if you have electrical issues its 'cause you didn't do any research !!
For what it does it is extremely overpriced !!!
Ehh... it is what it is. It's not just a simple buss bar, it's definitely more involved than that. I don't mind paying for something that makes the job easier or enables a more sanitary install. By the time you gather up whatever would be needed to accomplish the same things, you might as well have just sprung for the box.

It's always nice to have something like this where it all easily ties into one spot. No need to figure where to put relays or utilize the existing fuse box... just makes for a cleaner install.

When I put the Sniper in my Coronet, the only things I ended up using from the original Holley harness were the connectors - everything else was basically reverse engineered to better fit the car. Nothing reached and I didn't like the way the relays were just hanging there, it looked chintzy. It took forever because I literally de-pinned everything, crimped on new terminals and ran new wires. If I had one of these PDM things, I'm certain I wouldn't have had to go to the lengths I did to get the wiring the way I wanted.
The reason I suggest rewiring (generally every old car whether it's destined for EFI or not) is because if the wiring in the car is still original, (like on my '68) it's beyond it's intended service interval. Even if it looks good, the insulation is likely brittle and the connectors are creating a bunch of resistance. It's old stuff, you shouldn't expect it's going to be 100% satisfactory.

The obvious problem with wiring is it's unweildy. It's stuffed behind the dash, under the carpet or wherever and you need a literal diagram to figure out what's what. In my experieince it's just easier to take it all out, do what you need to do with it on the bench and then put it back in knowing it's right before you fire the car back up. I get not everyone is going to do that but in my mind that will give you the best shot at success.

Just to show what I did on my Dodge - I used an AAW kit to rewire the car. That harness was also modified extensively because it's designed around GM stuff and made to fit out cars. (most A.M. wiring kits are like that) Their bulkhead was a nightmare. At the same time, I integrated the Holley harness into the AAW one which was not easy but it came out OK in the end.

There were things I was not quite happy with like the zip ties but sometimes you just have to push forward and finish. I tried to make it look like it belonged there or at least blended in enough where it didn't look out of place. 99% of the people that looked at the car had no clue it was EFI which is kind of what I was after.

In my opinion, if you have electrical issues its 'cause you didn't do any research !!
Wiring is still a black art to a lot of people. Research is only the start - you kinda need to be competent at it. Good crimping tools are a must and good tools are always an investment. Shrink tubing, labeling, routing, shielding - it's all part of it and it adds up quick.
I saw this and thought it was funny....

the more and more I read of the success stories the more excited I am go get my going with EFI.

At this point on my 66 with 505 it will be a Term-X set up, with the pro dash, and include the hyper-spark system.

I plan to sell off my MSD billet dizzy and 6al with coil and jump all in.

this current motor will be a little finicky and Wisconsin weather can throw some curve balls. 35 degree mornings and 75 degree or higher afternoons. I want this car to be able to cruise and idle clean as can be and then when the go pedal meets the floor it needs to be up on all the available hp.
The Terminator X is a good system. It is more expensive than the Sniper, but it tends to be more reliable and has more features. The dash is nice, I have one of the smaller ones in my Coronet, had a big one in my Duster.
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