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How do non power brakes work?

I agree with Cranky, drums are fine until they get heated up. The master for drum and disks should be of a different bore size no matter what MP tells you. Even autozone will have three different bore sizes for our cars

GTX Ken is right....Also there is a difference in the power assist ratio between drum and disc booster's. I just went through this myself with dealing with Right Stuff Detailing.

Also, keep in mind you will need to install a proportioning valve and then probably a 10 PSI residual valve for your rear drums once you go to power disc. I don't know off hand if your distribution block from a manual drum car will work with an updated power disc system. You could kill two birds with one stone and buy the Wilwood dist. block/prop valve combo for $60 bucks.
 
yeah I have to rebuild what I have, I cant go buying a disc kit right now I just dont have the money... new shoes and wheel cylinders and I'll take it all apart and clean it up as best I can for now... I also have a new gas tank and trunk floor on the way and need a few light sockets ......

can you link me to that wilwood combo please
 
Measure the drum from one side to the other on the brake surface...across the center....you can also measure how wide the shoes are.
 
Its 10" and when I look at everything we're looking at about $311 delivered... the front need new drums and the rear are fine but they (front and rear) need all new parts... The SSBC cast iron 4 piston kit is only like $809... $500 more.. dilema..LOL
 
Ok no dilema...LOL just have to remember this is only temporary transportation .... don't need drums or a disc kit right now, just need to make it so it stops....
the drums have some grooves but they aren't so bad that it wont work.. the new power MC will help with pedal pressure......



is there really no front springs of any kind in this car? that lonely shock is it?
 
Ok no dilema...LOL just have to remember this is only temporary transportation .... don't need drums or a disc kit right now, just need to make it so it stops....
the drums have some grooves but they aren't so bad that it wont work.. the new power MC will help with pedal pressure......



is there really no front springs of any kind in this car? that lonely shock is it?

Mopars in these years have torsion bars up front....those two bars running forward from the torsion bar crossmember under your feet and tie into the top of the lower control arms. That's it for spring's up there.
 
thats kind of crazy..or is it? This thing floats like a boat so suspension and shocks are next.. almost ready the drive to old girl... it aint pretty but it will be safe
 
WTF man, I just called ssbc to ask them a question and they said the power master wont work with drum brakes after telling me it would work with them. .....??????~~!!!!?
 
Torsion bars are used by many manufacturers. 4x4 Dakotas used them too...even GM used them at one time or another. If you push the front end down hard and it rebounds more than once after it settles the first time, your shocks are not doing their job.
 
99ss,

SSBC is right..That booster is designed for a disc/drum set up. The power assist ratio is different from a full drum to a disc/drum set up with the power booster. Two different boosters.

You're kind of in a tight spot....Problem is, most of these companies make power disc convertion kits for manual drum cars...You're going from manual drums to power drums and the booster that comes in the kits is for the disc set up. That link to Summit that you had showing the booster/master cylinder that you're buying is pretty much identical to what comes in the conversion kits from SSBC and Right Stuff Detailing.

You can easily buy a power drum master cylinder/booster set up for your car, but the problem there is that the bracket and rod's are different from a manual drum to a power drum car. In order to acurately do what your planning on, you would have to get all the correct rod/linkage/pedal arm from a power drum car, and buy a new booster/master cylinder for a power drum set up..

Otherwise, buy the front power disc brake conversion kit. The kit will come with that master cylinder/booster you looked at on summit and will bolt up to your manual set up under the dash.

There are companies that make manual disc brake convertion kits, including SSBC. Ever look into that?

Here is a site that will sell you a booster/master cylinder combo if you were still looking to go the power drum brake route.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?N=0&Nr=AND(wpn_tl_name:Brakes%5C%2C+Suspension+%26+Steering,wpn_cat_name:Brake+Master+Cylinders%5C%2C+Boosters+%26+Components,wpn_scat_name:Brake+Boosters+%26+Components)

I used them to get a Disc Power Booster for my power drums to power disc converstion. You could probably take the Part# of it and shop around for a while to find a cheaper price maybe. I had good luck with them.
 
well I bought the other unit already so I guess I'll just save it for the future restoration. I ordered a new master for it, it was like $29 so I'll have brakes.. just didn't want to spend unnecessary money right now.... the thing is I talked to someone at SSBC before I bought it to make sure it would work and I got hosed by them.... I just need this car to drive for now.
 
some pics
 

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