how much would this car be worth ? Help
- Thread starter josephqatarcarguy
- Start date
josephqatarcarguy
Well-Known Member
yup its a G code not a C code. here picures of the VIN and the engine bay as is of today
josephqatarcarguy
Well-Known Member
are those 14" wheels on her or 15?
QOTHL
Well-Known Member
That's what I thought as well.
Durandal25
Well-Known Member
"How much you got, boy?"
Danny Tuel
Well-Known Member
It's impossible to put a price on a car from pictures. I don't know why guys keep asking this question ??
josephqatarcarguy
Well-Known Member
mate just wanted to know based on the pictures how much would guys pay for it aye
John B
Active Member
The C code was a 225 and you could have gotten one in 73. On this Resto-Mod is how well it's done, seen really original looking conversions and poorly constructed abortions so without a lot more info it's hard to determine the value. I do this as part of my business and I get calls all the time asking what a car is worth over the phone and all I can say is I need to see it and compare it to other that have sold in the market and take differences into account. Anything else is guessing. If you can buy it for $15K US then you can sort out the issues but it's only a guess as it could've been an east coast rot bucket and full of bondo. Pretty green paint.
69Coronetrt
Well-Known Member
Tim Ziegler
Deceased, But not forgotton
To obtain max value...like an antique or collector item... if it was born with a 340 it should have a 73 340 in it. Lime green? The 70 stripes? Not my cup a tea
Tim Ziegler
Deceased, But not forgotton
Sorry, sorry, I see it was born a 6. I would have gone 340 myself. Just my preference here
Why is it a 72-74 cant have earlier stripes or colors. It's the same car except, grille, tail lights, markers. What makes a 70-71 so special? If you dont like the late grille. Change it, who cares. It's a hot rod not a Hemi resto. A good E body that's not rusty or full of patches is more important than year.
Doug
Doug
chargervert
Well-Known Member
Who cares if parts of a car look like another car? I suppose a 70 Cuda is a copy of a 69 Camaro as well. Personal preference. The bottom line swap out what you dont like. Start with a good 72-74 and modify what you want. Way easier than swapping frame rails, inner fenders , floors, 1/4s. Look at the price of rusty 70 /71 hulks. Why are the worth the price of a good 72-74? To many worry about resale value, then spend more than it's worth anyway. Just to keep appearances up for the next owner. Build what you like. Dont build by committee
Doug
Doug
chargervert
Well-Known Member
Potato =70 /71 Challenger and Barracuda taillights, cool as french fries!
Pot-tah-to = 72 to 74 Barracuda taillights looking like a generic Chevy, like crappy tasting instant potatoes.
Pota-toe = 72-74 Challenger taillights looking like a poor selling Ford product of the early seventies, kinda like having to peel thousands of potatoes, that smell like someone's toes!
Pot-tah-to = 72 to 74 Barracuda taillights looking like a generic Chevy, like crappy tasting instant potatoes.
Pota-toe = 72-74 Challenger taillights looking like a poor selling Ford product of the early seventies, kinda like having to peel thousands of potatoes, that smell like someone's toes!
Cojohnso1
Well-Known Member
I believe it is a $20k car. Now comes the build quality. I wouldn't worry about cleaning up before purchase. But I would get underneath to see frame and unibody conditions. If sound? You can be better secured with a $20+ purchase. Next is motor and trans build. Year? And components information can be vital.
It will never be the $40k+ build due to its mods. But it could be a fun driver that would fit just find at a local show.
In closing? I would put that bar at $20k. If quality of conditions looks favorable in your inspections? Then you can be confident to bid over that $20k to secure purchase.
This of course is in the eye of a "Buyer" And more importantly? JMO.
It will never be the $40k+ build due to its mods. But it could be a fun driver that would fit just find at a local show.
In closing? I would put that bar at $20k. If quality of conditions looks favorable in your inspections? Then you can be confident to bid over that $20k to secure purchase.
This of course is in the eye of a "Buyer" And more importantly? JMO.
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Show me someone who has purchased a running driving E body with decent paint and no rust holes for 20K. Good luck. Heck for that matter an A body.
Doug
Doug
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