Humor me I'm a newbie.. Motor minds needed

[Blest4343]

I have a 71 roadrunner I got on a good deal, but it was rough and is not totally ready for paint.. To the point it was a 383 car but has a 400 in it. Later on I'm gonna build a big motor but right now I want to have enough power so I don't get smoked by a mustang gt at a red light but don't need so much I can't use pump gas.. And I've not got a ton of cash.. Any ideas on how to get a strong motor with minimal cash? Thanks for the help.. Also there are several decent 440's pretty cheap if that best way

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[HawkRod]

Hey Blest4343,

The 400 block is actually quite popular, as it is a great block to make a killer stroker motor. Put a 440 crank in it and rebuild it and you will have a pretty decent car.

From there, most of the other goodies like cam, heads, carb, headers, etc. are all the same between the engines. Intake is a bit different though, but I think priced about the same.

So, since you have a 400 already I would suggest you start with that - it is probably the least outlay of cash for you...

 

[Blest4343]

Thanks man

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[Blest4343]

Do I want a steel or cast crank

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[terzmo]

400 stroked to 451...friends 70 charger ran 12.40's in stock weight and suspension...1/4 mile time...not too shabby

 

[43tutor]

Steel crank only for making power. I'm currently building my 400 into a stroker motor. There are several kits available that make it easier or you can locate all the parts individually. Whatever you prefer.

There are several companies that offer the kits. Do a google search. I purchased my kit from 440source.com

You didn't mention if the car was an automatic or manual. Once you build the motor make sure to properly build the tranny and drive line to back it up. Nothing worse then watching that Mustang pull away from you while your drive line drop parts all over the road. Have fun with the build.

 

[66chargerpat]

The 400 mapor block is best block to start with. Count your self lucky to have it. I have a 383 and a 440 ,I wish I had a 400 block to work with. P

 

[Blest4343]

It's an automatic but id like to make it manual

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[snakeyes]

hi and welcome to the site :headbang:

 

[73runner]

Welcome. Always like the start of a new project.

 

[Bruzilla]

Rule #1, when you don't have a lot of your own money, try to spend as much of other peoples' money as you can. Engines are a lot like buying a new car. It's better to let someone else eat the cost of depreciation. If you look around you're going to find lot of engines that someone sunk thousands of dollars into rebuilding and then ended up not moving forward with their project, resulting in them selling the engine for a fraction of what they sunk into it. That's the engine you want to buy.

Rule #2, always buy the biggest engine because that's where you're eventually going to end up. I've lost count of how many guys I've known who've wasted resources buying, modifying, or rebuilding intermediate engines like 340s, 360s, 383s, and 400s only to end up taking a loss when they eventually decide they want a 440, which is where they always end up after taking their cars to countless cruise ins and hearing "too bad that doesn't have a 440 in it!" over and over again. I would sell the 400 to someone who wants to stroke it and use that money to put into a 440.

Rule #3, not all 440s are the same. Down here in Florida, where RVs come to die, there is a plethora of low-compression motor home and truck 440s that sell for peanuts, which from a performance perspective is about what they are worth. While it's appealing to buy a "was running when pulled" motorhome 440 for $300 or so, you're going to violate Rule #1 when you have to find new heads, a better cam, intake, and have the engine rebuilt to get some semblance of performance out of it. Better to use Rule #1 and buy one that was built up for racing in a project car that's been cancelled.

 

[Ron 73]

If you just want to get a little extra HP now with what you have i would start with a 4- barrel carb and a set of headers, That will add some Hp to it and make it sound a bit more dangerous lol, ill leave the building of a good high HP engine to these guys but for now these will up your power some if im reading right and its just the one in the car now your wanting the extra..

 

[sleepar]

Rule #1, when you don't have a lot of your own money, try to spend as much of other peoples' money as you can. Engines are a lot like buying a new car. It's better to let someone else eat the cost of depreciation. If you look around you're going to find lot of engines that someone sunk thousands of dollars into rebuilding and then ended up not moving forward with their project, resulting in them selling the engine for a fraction of what they sunk into it. That's the engine you want to buy.

Rule #2, always buy the biggest engine because that's where you're eventually going to end up. I've lost count of how many guys I've known who've wasted resources buying, modifying, or rebuilding intermediate engines like 340s, 360s, 383s, and 400s only to end up taking a loss when they eventually decide they want a 440, which is where they always end up after taking their cars to countless cruise ins and hearing "too bad that doesn't have a 440 in it!" over and over again. I would sell the 400 to someone who wants to stroke it and use that money to put into a 440.

Rule #3, not all 440s are the same. Down here in Florida, where RVs come to die, there is a plethora of low-compression motor home and truck 440s that sell for peanuts, which from a performance perspective is about what they are worth. While it's appealing to buy a "was running when pulled" motorhome 440 for $300 or so, you're going to violate Rule #1 when you have to find new heads, a better cam, intake, and have the engine rebuilt to get some semblance of performance out of it. Better to use Rule #1 and buy one that was built up for racing in a project car that's been cancelled.

I couldn't agree more... I will add to the list brakes and suspension and lighting.... and my #1 is study up on what you want first before much is spent... it is real easy for someone to get excited about the engine build and spend their jack on it and have only a strong motor and a miserable car in all other respects..... and learn to do most of it your self.... hireing people for everything but to drive the car is not cheap and they look like idiots because they can't talk the talk or walk the walk... get an education and you will have a top mechanic 24/7 365 on call... with out a solid plan and sticking to it you will waste money and be frustrated.... everyone wants the fastest car ( but me but that's another story) but if it has to hit a telephone pole to stop it... it's no good... or to steer that monster 440 you have to ride the rails no good. A funny car engine in a street car is junk that 300 horse 440 out of a motor home can sit in hours in traffic and not over heat and last for 3-500 k while you work on other things to make the car worthy of a powerhouse suspension and chassis wise... I wouldn't worry about beating a mustang if your on a budget let them smoke you at every light for as log as it takes to get your gear together... then when they expect you to be a dog race' em for money or pinks you will earn your stripes from the bottom up and that's my opinion.... there is no wrong way only a way.... but walk before you run

- - - Updated - - -

I couldn't imagine running someone's else's engine build no matter if it was for free. Something about tearing a factory motor down and doing it you're self... I only need to have my rotating assembly balanced at a shop and I wasn't totally happy with how they handled my stuff. If you don't really know what to look for I wouldn't take on someone else's project they didn't finish... I wouldn't buy a crate motor either.... Bruzilla knows his $hit and if it was me in your shoes I would ask him to check out or recommend that stuff because he has practically offered... that way you have someone to weed out the junk with you... big block '71 is not my specialty I like 67 and down cars and small block stuff. It's too new if that makes sense. A 73 to me is a Subaru...

 

[Blest4343]

Rule #1, when you don't have a lot of your own money, try to spend as much of other peoples' money as you can.

Engines are a lot like buying a new car. It's better to let someone else eat the cost of depreciation. If you look around you're going to find lot of engines that someone sunk thousands of dollars into rebuilding and then ended up not moving forward with their project, resulting in them selling the engine for a fraction of what they sunk into it. That's the engine you want to buy.

Rule #2, always buy the biggest engine because that's where you're eventually going to end up. I've lost count of how many guys I've known who've wasted resources buying, modifying, or rebuilding intermediate engines like 340s, 360s, 383s, and 400s only to end up taking a loss when they eventually decide they want a 440, which is where they always end up after taking their cars to countless cruise ins and hearing "too bad that doesn't have a 440 in it!" over and over again.

I would sell the 400 to someone who wants to stroke it and use that money to put into a 440.

Rule #3, not all 440s are the same. Down here in Florida, where RVs come to die, there is a plethora of low-compression motor home and truck 440s that sell for peanuts, which from a performance perspective is about what they are worth. While it's appealing to buy a "was running when pulled" motorhome 440 for $300 or so, you're going to violate Rule #1 when you have to find new heads, a better cam, intake, and have the engine rebuilt to get some semblance of performance out of it. Better to use Rule #1 and buy one that was built up for racing in a project car that's been cancelled.

Hey thanks for taking the time to share your wisdom and experience

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[Blest4343]

Rule #1, when you don't have a lot of your own money, try to spend as much of other peoples' money as you can.

Engines are a lot like buying a new car. It's better to let someone else eat the cost of depreciation. If you look around you're going to find lot of engines that someone sunk thousands of dollars into rebuilding and then ended up not moving forward with their project, resulting in them selling the engine for a fraction of what they sunk into it. That's the engine you want to buy.

Rule #2, always buy the biggest engine because that's where you're eventually going to end up. I've lost count of how many guys I've known who've wasted resources buying, modifying, or rebuilding intermediate engines like 340s, 360s, 383s, and 400s only to end up taking a loss when they eventually decide they want a 440, which is where they always end up after taking their cars to countless cruise ins and hearing "too bad that doesn't have a 440 in it!" over and over again.

I would sell the 400 to someone who wants to stroke it and use that money to put into a 440.

Rule #3, not all 440s are the same. Down here in Florida, where RVs come to die, there is a plethora of low-compression motor home and truck 440s that sell for peanuts, which from a performance perspective is about what they are worth. While it's appealing to buy a "was running when pulled" motorhome 440 for $300 or so, you're going to violate Rule #1 when you have to find new heads, a better cam, intake, and have the engine rebuilt to get some semblance of performance out of it. Better to use Rule #1 and buy one that was built up for racing in a project car that's been cancelled.

Thanks man .. This is the best Mopar forum because you guys don't just tell people what they ask but you also tell them what you would do

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[dangina]

Great car and great engine! You can build a 451 stroker which is pretty much bulletproof. OR keep watching those kijiji/craiglist ads for cheap motors, I see them all the time popping up...

 

[Bruzilla]

The first deal I tried to get for my 74 Road Runner was to buy a 1982 Dodge Mirada that had been made into a race car. It had a super nice 440 that had been dynoed at 540 HP, 727 tranny, had a sure grip 8.75 rear with disk brakes, tripple-core radiator, Mallory ignition, even MP valve covers, all of which I could use in my car. It also had nice racing seats, a full Auto Meter instrument panel and switch setup, fire gear, roll cage, and about $1,400 or so in wheels and tires. The guy was asking $3,000 OBO, and I figured I could get the car for $2,500, sell the gauges and switches for $750, the wheels and tires for $1,000, and the rest of the racing gear for $500 or so, then scrap whatever was left for $300, and make $2,550 off the deal, which would mean I would get the 440, 727, radiator, and rear-end essentially for free and make $50 to boot.

Sadly my plan failed when I waited about a week too long to buy the car and someone else snapped it up.