• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

I have 3 wires under my dash in my 67 Charger that I need to connect. Help!

Dean Prevolos

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
6:11 AM
Joined
Sep 3, 2020
Messages
586
Reaction score
393
Location
Naples, Florida
I have a service manual and have used the Instrument Panel Wiring diagram for my guide but can't find the three wires I need to connect. I had removed my dash cluster to install new lenses. I re-installed the dash cluster and the following items work: headlights and the wipers, interior light when I open the doors. None of the gauges work ;Fuel, oil and rpm. I have a new fuel sending unit and ground. I have been under the dash looking for any wires which are not connected and found Three (3): a male RED WIRE that comes out of the harness just to the right (view under dash) of the radio and a DOUBLE RED wire with a Grey male Connector(photo attached) , which is just under the glovebox and the third wire is the white wire with red female connector (photo attached) that is spliced into another white wire that is attached to the radio. I have a service manual and have the Instrument Panel Charger wiring diagram but an having trouble locating where these three wires connect. I have attached a photo of the DOUBLE RED wire, which I tested with the engine off and it is a live connection with power. Any thoughts are appreciated

Grey Male double red wire outlined.jpg


White red and grey double red wire closeup.jpg


White red wire spliced into another white red.jpg
 
All gauges not working could indicate a bad voltage limiter which is plugged into the back of the cluster
those pinkish wires in that area may be for a glove box light Which goes to a plunger type switch first , actuated by the door opening. Your car may not have come with that option so you can leave it alone in that case.
 
I have looked for a voltage limiter but have no luck. I checked Year One, Classic Industries, Ebay. Year one has volateg limiters for all years EXCEPT 66-67 . What is so special about this year car? Any source you can recommend? Thanks again.
 
I would PM Halifaxhops and ask him if he has one.
 
I understand that the white wires with red connectors indicate the high voltage electroluminescent feeds. If your car is a 67 the extra connector may be for the console, which did not have electroluminescent lighting in 67.
 
I have looked for a voltage limiter but have no luck. I checked Year One, Classic Industries, Ebay. Year one has volateg limiters for all years EXCEPT 66-67 . What is so special about this year car? Any source you can recommend? Thanks again.
Dean,

The voltage limiter is built into the fuel gauge on a 66 Charger it's not plugged into the rear of a circuit board like most B bodies.
A new voltage limiter is a good idea (mine stuck on this spring and blew up my temp gauge) but you first need to ensure that it has power.
12V Power should be on the black-traced wire on the fuel gauge when the key is in the run position.
The tachometer amplifier shares the same feed wire only it's a violet wire so that power feed may be your issue with the gauges.

The best way I know of to upgrade is the IVR3 from Real Time engineering.
RTE limiter - rte
It does require some modifications to install you need to disable the original limiter and mount the IVR3 on the back of the gauge cluster.

@Skatpak seems to do these regularly from his postings here.

For the other wires:

The white with Red is an electroluminescent feed I think that one plugs in near the oil pressure and temperature gauge portion of the cluster.

The pink one should be the glove box light.

Hope that helps.
 
If you still need help, pm me and I will help you sort this out. Todd
 
Dean,

The voltage limiter is built into the fuel gauge on a 66 Charger it's not plugged into the rear of a circuit board like most B bodies.
A new voltage limiter is a good idea (mine stuck on this spring and blew up my temp gauge) but you first need to ensure that it has power.
12V Power should be on the black-traced wire on the fuel gauge when the key is in the run position.
The tachometer amplifier shares the same feed wire only it's a violet wire so that power feed may be your issue with the gauges.

The best way I know of to upgrade is the IVR3 from Real Time engineering.
RTE limiter - rte
It does require some modifications to install you need to disable the original limiter and mount the IVR3 on the back of the gauge cluster.

@Skatpak seems to do these regularly from his postings here.

For the other wires:

The white with Red is an electroluminescent feed I think that one plugs in near the oil pressure and temperature gauge portion of the cluster.

The pink one should be the glove box light.

Hope that helps.
Yes. It’s in the fuel gauge . I’m glad you corrected me on that…I had a dumb attack
 
Yes. It’s in the fuel gauge . I’m glad you corrected me on that…I had a dumb attack
I found the information on Real Time Engineering website : www.rt-eng.com. It states:

There are a few cars that don't use external limiters, but instead have the limiters built into one of the gauges. The cars that I know about that do this are:
60-65 Abody
68-74 Abody Rallye cluster cars
66-67 charger
older imperials with round style cluster, not sure of the year.
Note that RTE can disable these old limiters and install an external limiter on these cars. RTE also has complete instructions here on how to do this conversion yourself:
RTE_Gauge_Faq#Fixing_dash_clusters_that_have_internal_limiters
Installation manual for replacing limiters built into the fuel gauge: media:InternalLimiterFixUsingIVR3.pdf

RTE also has available limiters that will work in Mustangs and other Ford vehicles.

More information about voltage limiters​

 
Dean,

The voltage limiter is built into the fuel gauge on a 66 Charger it's not plugged into the rear of a circuit board like most B bodies.
A new voltage limiter is a good idea (mine stuck on this spring and blew up my temp gauge) but you first need to ensure that it has power.
12V Power should be on the black-traced wire on the fuel gauge when the key is in the run position.
The tachometer amplifier shares the same feed wire only it's a violet wire so that power feed may be your issue with the gauges.

The best way I know of to upgrade is the IVR3 from Real Time engineering.
RTE limiter - rte
It does require some modifications to install you need to disable the original limiter and mount the IVR3 on the back of the gauge cluster.

@Skatpak seems to do these regularly from his postings here.

For the other wires:

The white with Red is an electroluminescent feed I think that one plugs in near the oil pressure and temperature gauge portion of the cluster.

The pink one should be the glove box light.

Hope that helps.

Thanks for your response. The white with red I understood was from the elctroluminescent feed and as just trying to find the matching white/red male plug to connect to. Qkcuda mentioned it may be for a glove box light. I have my glove box out of the car but will take another look this weekend, makes sense. The grey male feed is a live wire, I tested with the engine off, which I am also trying to locate where it connects.
If you still need help, pm me and I will help you sort this out. Todd
Thank you Todd, I will get back to you with a pm if I don't figure this out, much appreciated, Dean.
 
Dean,

The voltage limiter is built into the fuel gauge on a 66 Charger it's not plugged into the rear of a circuit board like most B bodies.
A new voltage limiter is a good idea (mine stuck on this spring and blew up my temp gauge) but you first need to ensure that it has power.
12V Power should be on the black-traced wire on the fuel gauge when the key is in the run position.
The tachometer amplifier shares the same feed wire only it's a violet wire so that power feed may be your issue with the gauges.

The best way I know of to upgrade is the IVR3 from Real Time engineering.
RTE limiter - rte
It does require some modifications to install you need to disable the original limiter and mount the IVR3 on the back of the gauge cluster.

@Skatpak seems to do these regularly from his postings here.

For the other wires:

The white with Red is an electroluminescent feed I think that one plugs in near the oil pressure and temperature gauge portion of the cluster.

The pink one should be the glove box light.

Hope that helps.
Thanks Don, much appreciated, will take all into consideration.
 
I found the information on Real Time Engineering website : www.rt-eng.com. It states:

There are a few cars that don't use external limiters, but instead have the limiters built into one of the gauges. The cars that I know about that do this are:
60-65 Abody
68-74 Abody Rallye cluster cars
66-67 charger
older imperials with round style cluster, not sure of the year.
Note that RTE can disable these old limiters and install an external limiter on these cars. RTE also has complete instructions here on how to do this conversion yourself:
RTE_Gauge_Faq#Fixing_dash_clusters_that_have_internal_limiters
Installation manual for replacing limiters built into the fuel gauge: media:InternalLimiterFixUsingIVR3.pdf

RTE also has available limiters that will work in Mustangs and other Ford vehicles.

More information about voltage limiters​

Just so you know, I repair these clusters and gauges. I do this conversion regularly, see my posts. also on my fb page 66-67 Charger freaks, I post pics a lot more on there than here. If you have questions about your cluster, hl motors, or power pack pm me and I will try to help and I rebuild all these parts. Todd
 
Just so you know, I repair these clusters and gauges. I do this conversion regularly, see my posts. also on my fb page 66-67 Charger freaks, I post pics a lot more on there than here. If you have questions about your cluster, hl motors, or power pack pm me and I will try to help and I rebuild all these parts. Todd
Great to know, I did not know that. I have gone over my Service manual drawings and have a few questions. I will pm you with the specifics. Thanks, Dean.
 
Good moirning Todd, we spoke two weeks ago regarding my wiring. My glove box does not have the light so I guess the harnesshas the extra plug that I don't have a use for. I also corrected my RPM gauge wires but still not working. I had to replace my alternator and voltage regulator last week. My battery was not charging and my coil was getting so hot I couldn't touch it. With the new Voltage regulator, the coil is not heating up and with the new alterator my battery is charging. So now I will concentrate on the dash lights and gauge functions. If nothing works I will send to you for repair/testing. Thank you.
 
Just so you know, I repair these clusters and gauges. I do this conversion regularly, see my posts. also on my fb page 66-67 Charger freaks, I post pics a lot more on there than here. If you have questions about your cluster, hl motors, or power pack pm me and I will try to help and I rebuild all these parts. Todd
What’s your website?
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top