I put a 4bbl on my engine and now it hates me

[Revhendo]

Honestly sounds like you have a buttload of a vacuum leak. Don't worry too much about getting it to turn over by hand seeing how you got it running enough to get away from the comfort of the garage. The reason for my question was that I have seen folks chase starters and crap on an engine that was locked up. You'll only get a click out of your starter if the engine won't turn over.

Did you mention what you have going for ignition? How did you deadtime the engine when you did the intake swap?

 

[ArtH]

This is better than "The Walking Dead" series. I'm waiting for the resolution of the problem. I think all the bases have been covered.

 

[WP29440SE]

About two days ago i was able to get it started, and drive it down my driveway. It ran ok, and then sputtered and died. Before i moved it it was idling just fine, I just had to keep the RPM a little bit higher then normal or it would die. At the end of my driveway, i went to turn around and it died, while trying to start it again(seemed like a carb problem), the battery died. We jumped it and only got the single click.


I want to thank everyone for their help with this, there is a LOT of great info here and A lot for me to check. I work tonight and tomorrow, so it will be a couple days before i can get out and check more. Thank you again, EVERYONE!

let me get this straight , youve already had it running and it died? its sounds like a carb / fuel OR an ignition problem killed it, then a battery or charging issue took over from there

Lived in Dolores, CO for 8 years then moved back to CA. Where are you?

ive lived in colorado springs since 1976

What's a couple of fingers as long as you can get it running???!!! LOL :eusa_think:

LOL

 

[Revhendo]

Well? Where ya at there with all of this? Get her running? Taking a break and going fishing to clear your mind? (My favorite). Any updates?

 

[WP29440SE]

Well? Where ya at there with all of this? Get her running? Taking a break and going fishing to clear your mind? (My favorite). Any updates?

XS2...im wondering if it is running or burst into flames lol

 

[Herbykw]

No, there is no progress. I started a new job working nights. I worked the last 6 nights in a row. Haven't had the motivation to get out there and mess with it.

 

[RustyRatRod]

On ANY old car, One of the very first things I do is remove and inspect the gas tank. If it's rusted all to hell, I get a new one. If it's nasty with a little rust, I throw some pea sized gravel in it, dump about 2 gallons of mineral spirits in it, get a friend and we shake it around like we're havin some kinda evil fit with a gas tank in the front yard. The gravel knocks off little rust particles and helps clean the tank. Then rinse it out GOOD with soap and water. Dawn dishwashing detergent works GOOD. Next, blow it out with air and dry it completely. Some people even go to the trouble to coat the tank. O'Reilly's sells a product called Red Kote that does it. BUT if you do that, you need to make SURE that it sets up completely. The can says it can take up to a WEEK to cure. If you put gas in it before it sets up, you can run that stuff through the entire fuel system. That would suck. But, if you're having fuel issues and you have not started at the source, there's your problem.

 

[ArtH]

Try removing the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump and place a gallon gas can with a piece of fuel line from the pump into the gas can. It would be a good idea to have fire extinguisher nearby. See if the engine will crank up and run off the gas in the can instead of the gas tank. If it does, then you have solved part of your problem, that being a clogged fuel line or gas tank.

If you can get it running, find a manifold vacuum source and hook up a vacuum gauge. They don't cost much and can tell you a lot about what's going on with the engine. Here's a site that explains how to read the gauge.

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Summer2003/VacuumLeaks.htm

You can also check your timing while the engine is running and using your vacuum gauge, set the idle fuel mix. The gauge will also reveal vacuum leaks and other problems. A dwell tachometer is a good tool and none of this stuff costs a whole lot. Let's see if you can get it running and keep it running. Obviously you cannot drive the car with using this method, but if you can get her running and idling nicely, then you know that the tank needs to come off and be properly cleaned and perhaps sealed inside. There is a flex line coming off the tank to the steel fuel line. These become rotted and will seep some. They also will not hold vacuum and make it really hard for the fuel pump to suck gas out of the tank. I can't tell how many times I've read of guys talking about electric fuel pumps due to this problem. If that line is old, replace it. It's a one a couple bucks and easy to do.

 

[coloradodave]

X2.............

 

[RustyRatRod]

Try removing the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump and place a gallon gas can with a piece of fuel line from the pump into the gas can. It would be a good idea to have fire extinguisher nearby. See if the engine will crank up and run off the gas in the can instead of the gas tank. If it does, then you have solved part of your problem, that being a clogged fuel line or gas tank.

Great simple idea.....BUT this will only work if the fuel filter is all that has trash in it. If the carburetor had junk in it, it's still gonna run like hell. Still a very recommendable procedure since it is so simple to do and will at least narrow it down.

 

[ArtH]

Great simple idea.....BUT this will only work if the fuel filter is all that has trash in it. If the carburetor had junk in it, it's still gonna run like hell. Still a very recommendable procedure since it is so simple to do and will at least narrow it down.

I agree. What I'm suggesting would only remove the gas tank and line from it to the pump from the equation. Along with what you have suggested, a new fuel filter would be a good idea. Again, it's a cheap part and easy to do as you would be down there anyway. Poor man's rebuild. IF he can get the engine running, hold the throttle open to about 2000 RPM and keep the choke closed. The powerfull engine vacuum will often times suck all the trash out of the carb bowl, jets etc and possibly clear it. He indicates the carb is new so there shouldn't be any caked on crud, maybe just some junk that was sucked into it from the fuel line.

Another thought, if the fuel filter has been contaminated with water that was sucked in from the gas tank, it maybe badly blocked. I had this happen once years ago. It was a miserable experience trying to figure out why I had so little power. The engine was gas starved.

NOTE: Seriously, when doing this safety googles and stout gloves are required. If the engine backfires through the carb (many times a sign of retarded timing) you could get burned. I like to use a weed wacker full face shield when doing something like this.

 

[HT413]

If you do that, better ground the gas can to the chassis first. Gravity feeding gasoline can cause a static charge to build up in the fuel and KABOOM - like shuffling your feet and shocking your little sister... Only worse. A mechanic nearby lost some skin a few years back when a nifty method he developed to ckean injectors went bang. Gotta discharge any static and make sure none builds up while feeding. Only way to do it is ground the can to the chassis with the can sealed so the spark lets loose while not in the presence of gas fumes.

Try removing the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump and place a gallon gas can with a piece of fuel line from the pump into the gas can. It would be a good idea to have fire extinguisher nearby. See if the engine will crank up and run off the gas in the can instead of the gas tank. If it does, then you have solved part of your problem, that being a clogged fuel line or gas tank.

If you can get it running, find a manifold vacuum source and hook up a vacuum gauge. They don't cost much and can tell you a lot about what's going on with the engine. Here's a site that explains how to read the gauge.

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Summer2003/VacuumLeaks.htm

You can also check your timing while the engine is running and using your vacuum gauge, set the idle fuel mix. The gauge will also reveal vacuum leaks and other problems. A dwell tachometer is a good tool and none of this stuff costs a whole lot. Let's see if you can get it running and keep it running. Obviously you cannot drive the car with using this method, but if you can get her running and idling nicely, then you know that the tank needs to come off and be properly cleaned and perhaps sealed inside. There is a flex line coming off the tank to the steel fuel line. These become rotted and will seep some. They also will not hold vacuum and make it really hard for the fuel pump to suck gas out of the tank. I can't tell how many times I've read of guys talking about electric fuel pumps due to this problem. If that line is old, replace it. It's a one a couple bucks and easy to do.

 

[RustyRatRod]

That's right yall. Glad to see yall stress safety over here. I'll add to that as well. Keep a FIRE EXTINGUISHER handy. This is gas we're talkin about here. Good luck. Hope you get it fixed.

 

[Herbykw]

Finally a little bit of an update. AfteR a few hours of going through my Haynes and checking everything connected to the ignition system, I found the problem(well one of them). I checked everything, and pulled all the grounds off, hit them with a wire wheel, and everything was checking out fine, so I decided to start over from the beginning looking for something I may have overlooked. Apparently the brand new starter I bought was defective. . Luckily it has a lifetime warranty and I was able to get it replaced, just put the new one in again today and was able to fire her up. Next week I will try to dive into the possible carb/vacuum/ignition problems.

One more problem solved!!!!!!!!!!! Slow progress is better then no progress.

 

[tpodwdog]

It clicks one time, then nothing. Yes, when it does start if i keep it at a higher rpm it stays running. I have been looking everywhere for my Haynes manual for this car, I think i just need to buy a new one. I was still Active duty when i started working on the car, I know it ran well enough to drive about 25-30 feet to get to the garage where i swapped the intake and carb.

take the ground running from the battery to the block and clean it....both mating surfaces....sand paper works great...if its clicking one time....sounds like a bad battery ground....had that problem on my belvy!:headbang:

 

[Herbykw]

take the ground running from the battery to the block and clean it....both mating surfaces....sand paper works great...if its clicking one time....sounds like a bad battery ground....had that problem on my belvy!:headbang:

I already did that. It was the new starter that was bad. Thanks though.

 

[WP29440SE]

does it like the four barrel yet ?

 

[Herbykw]

I checked the vacuum at the intake manifold and it held steady at -19. I tried to get the compression tested and on cyl 1 I am only getting 60. I tried getting the compression on cyl 3 and can't get a reading.

 

[Herbykw]

Well I think the compression guage is bad. The part that screws into the motor spins and does not sit tight. Nowi can get it to read anything for the compression. Found a new problem, which may be the source of some of my other problems. I started the car and it was idling rough, so I went through the manual for the Holley carb and tried adjusting the idle screws. It continued to idle fast, and the idle screws went all the way in and it never changed how the car ran.

 

[WP29440SE]

Well I think the compression guage is bad. The part that screws into the motor spins and does not sit tight. Nowi can get it to read anything for the compression. Found a new problem, which may be the source of some of my other problems. I started the car and it was idling rough, so I went through the manual for the Holley carb and tried adjusting the idle screws. It continued to idle fast, and the idle screws went all the way in and it never changed how the car ran.

the metering block either has a bad idle circuit or is dirty. running the mixture screws in should have either made the engine run really bad or killed it. i am running a holley 600 on my 360 and it loves it. i would take it apart and clean it, soak the metering block, set the floats and try it again. i also found a great cheap edelbrock 1406 625 cfm carb on CL for 60 bucks that runs perfect. maybe try one of them.