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I refuse

What should I be looking at with the rockers?
Make sure they are not loose. Do any look dry? You said there is lifter noise when started after a few days of sitting. Are you still running break-in oil, or have you changed to normal oil? Could be collapsed lifter(s), maybe an oiling issue, if you have a loose rocker. With valve covers off, re-prime and watch the oil flow paths. Just a thought.
 
Before you give up, buy a good set of lifters. Change the oil and filter
see what that does for you. Rockers are oiled from the inside of the rocker shaft. Not up through a pushrod like a chebby. Check out the b/Rb oiling map.

View attachment 584013
And did you have the rocker shafts off the engine. They need to go on a certain way.
 
The oil was changed and there is oil on top of rockers. The shafts, are new as is rockers, pushrods. I know the shafts have to go a certain way and I believe I have them that way but will look again. Either way one or more is leaking down, but once the taping is gone, the lifter is pumped up would that affect how it idles?
 
I am missing something. Above you write the engine has only a few hours of running time, but then you write it will be replaced and in another post it looks like there was a cam swap.

What is the background on the engine and what has been done. Is it in another thread you can point me to?
I bought the long block from a guy I knew. It was rebuilt with new .30 over pistons and had the crank reground. New TRW rods and what I guess was a stock cam with new cam bearings. The motor was filthy dirty even though it was wrapped up. I took it apart cleaned and oiled it check everything and reassembled using redone heads from my original motor and all new parts. The basic problem is the lifter noise and a knocking sound which sounds like a rod when I rev it up. The noise becomes more noticeable as the engine get hotter. The oil pressure was ok and the engine runs cool. At a steady higher rpm it sounds good except for the internal noise which sound like a knock. At idle it runs a little rough and despite trying two carbs it smells rich. When I drove it for the first time other than running it up on a flatbed, that being up and down the block it sounded like the motor was going to throw a rod. It was that bad. The second outing it sounded not nearly as loud. The first outing it was not fully hot, the second outing it was hot. I have zero ideas wants going on with this engine. Its not right but it is firing on all 8 cylinders, that much I know. Im really not thinking straight anymore especially this last week and next one.
 
I bought the long block from a guy I knew. It was rebuilt with new .30 over pistons and had the crank reground. New TRW rods and what I guess was a stock cam with new cam bearings. The motor was filthy dirty even though it was wrapped up. I took it apart cleaned and oiled it check everything and reassembled using redone heads from my original motor and all new parts. The basic problem is the lifter noise and a knocking sound which sounds like a rod when I rev it up. The noise becomes more noticeable as the engine get hotter. The oil pressure was ok and the engine runs cool. At a steady higher rpm it sounds good except for the internal noise which sound like a knock. At idle it runs a little rough and despite trying two carbs it smells rich. When I drove it for the first time other than running it up on a flatbed, that being up and down the block it sounded like the motor was going to throw a rod. It was that bad. The second outing it sounded not nearly as loud. The first outing it was not fully hot, the second outing it was hot. I have zero ideas wants going on with this engine. Its not right but it is firing on all 8 cylinders, that much I know. Im really not thinking straight anymore especially this last week and next one.
Sounds like two issues - lifters and some knock. You could try some 10w50, or STP, and see if the noise is less or goes away. If so, then you have an oiling issue that could be bearings, oil pump, etc. Unfortunately for the bearing concern you will need to take things apart to check clearances.
 
In looking at the rockers what I do is bump the cam over so I'm on the intake opening and then do same for exhaust stroke, Wiggle the rocker arms, do this for each cylinder. If you have one cylinder that the rockers are looser than the others your lifter/cam is probably going flat.
Before you rip things apart, I'd pull the stethoscope out and listen to the rocker arm cover directly above each rocker arm. If things are really amiss you'll hear it.
This is more for checking main bearings, start the car have the driver do a gentle brake torque while you listen with your stethoscope over the rocker arm covers. You might get lucky and hear noises from the top end at least trying to isolate it.
Like others have mentioned prop open the carb and do a complete compression check.
Good luck
 
I hope it is top end and do not know about rod knock, but the other thing you have done is to remove the plug wires one by one while running and there is no change in the knock, right? I think this rules the rods out. If I am wrong, I am pretty sure someone will say something. I think this problem is above my level, but I'll keep reading and if I see something that makes me think I have another answer will post. I hope this gets resolved quickly.
 
Going by what your saying about the knocking, I'd suggest doing one of two things, if not both. That's NOT running the motor, until it's done.

Drain the oil, and pull the oil filter. Use a magnet, and look for any metal in the oil. Cut the filter open, and check it. That's the first thing.
Second, would be to pull the valve covers, and look. There's plenty of hiding places in the block valley, that oil (and metal) sits. Look for any signs of 'loose' metal, mostly it will show as powdered metal. Means a part is going away, slowly being ground down.
Also look the cam lobes over real good.

Your engine...your choice!
 
Before you give up, buy a good set of lifters. Change the oil and filter
see what that does for you. Rockers are oiled from the inside of the rocker shaft. Not up through a pushrod like a chebby. Check out the b/Rb oiling map.

View attachment 584013

Is this a reverse oiling engine?
 
My wife's friend (28 year old female) went to college to be a technical writer.
She does drawings like this, but has no mechanical background.
I'll bet that was the case here.
 
Lots of good info. offered.
One thing that concerns me is that you soaked the lifters in oil before installation. I'd definitely check the cam lobes for wear, and pushrods for straightness.
 
Instead of a bearing, maybe piston slap? Although I would think that wud lessen the warmer it got. Yank the v.covers,let it idle & see/feel what everything’s doing.
 
Thanks to all for advise and help, its very much appreciated. I shorted each cylinder and the knock remains. Its like a rattling knock sound that you here when RPM increases. I readjusted carb and its idling better. I saw antifreeze, just a drip on a boss on the block and everything was dry all around it but I'm not concerned. I found the source of the other noise i heard and its coming from the rear drum, i suspect brake hardware issue. The transmission pan gasket i stopped leaking, i used a Moroso gasket its 3/16 thick with a piece of steel in the middle. Made out of hard rubber but it wasnt cheap but did the job and its reusable. The trans still does leak, something in rear and the front seal. Its tolerable so it will stay as in.
Im getting my original short block rebuilt but as of yet i haven't decided who to use. I absolutely want the block magnafluxed and pressure checked.
I may hopefully bring the car to a noted highly recommend Mopar guy in CT. Its 120 miles one way but they will go through the car, correct some issues and i hope have the car reliable enough to drive home. At least thats the game plan. All id like is to drive it a little this summer and fall. Then when the season is over i will do the engine and trans the right way! Im even thinking of building the engine using a 4 barrel, RR cam, HP exhaust manifolds and dual exhaust.
Im out there in the garage later on the brake noise issue and after this incoming snow is done with and the roads are salt free i will take it out again and see how well it funs. Thanks again!
 
I fixed the noise coming from rear wheel, brake hardware issue. Got the two troublesome spark plug wires that were falling off taken care of. The carb was way to lean and i adjusted it and the engine runs better. The other issues are still there but hopefully i can use it as is for the season. As soon as the snow is gone i will take it out and see how it does. Thanks again
 
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