IDLER ARM / pitman arm puller

[Hubbarocks]

i did some searching , didn't find what i was looking for exactly.

i want to buy the recommended tool for removing the stud for the IDLER ARM / pitman arm puller out of the drag link. I've had to drop this a few times now. To pull the header , oil pan, etc. if I'm not planning on reusing the idler or pitman arm, I'd use a pickle fork , normally tearing the boots. But everything is new now and dont want to buy new boots. i've wrestled the drag link off so many times now, i need to invest in the right tool for the job.

During my front end build i'd put on loose so i can remove easy with a rubber mallet. but once you torque em down , that doesnt budge em. Neither does threading the nut on and using an 5lb hammer. My tool to remove the pitman arm from the gear box wont work properly.

I see lots of kits out there that "may" work but thought i'd check if someone has a favorite tool that does a good job and not tear up the boots or damage the shaft , etc.

i see kits like this at harbor freight , amazon , grainger , etc. one of those 'correct' ?

 

[WileERobby]

Yes. I have a pickle fork and a few of these I've had for half a century. You just position the appropriate size snugly, then slowly turn the nut.

 

[steve340]

I have some of those tools and they work well. The ones I use most are on the bottom left and bottom centre of your picture.
Remove the nut - slide in the tool and put some tension on the jack screw and a light-ish shock with a hammer or punch and job done.
A lot of folks put way to much torque on the retaining nut and that can make breaking the tapers quite hard. Sufficient torque and a cotter pin they never move.
The right tools and that "straight" push backwards works good.

 

[junior340]

One on far right works for me best, but not a harbor freight one. Otc or snap on.

 

[plymouthman72]

I want to say I bought that exact set and had issues with any of them fitting correctly over the center link and not working. I live close to summit so I ended up going there and buying the tool below. It worked perfectly and is better adjustable to any car size.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-27170

 

[steve340]

Buying better quality as said in post #5 makes good sense.
If the tools flex and twist they do not work well. Generally the design is similar but the material they are made from is what counts.
The little tie rod end puller I use a fair bit.

 

[Hubbarocks]

i think the TQ spec is only 30 ftlbs or so ... people crank on these with impacts makes it a challenge.

thanks for everyone's input. i'll end up with that adjustable one from summit me thinks!

 

[steve340]

Tie rod ends are around 30 lbs but ball joints are 100-120. It is fairly easy to find the factory spec for most vehicles.
My thoughts are 100 and a cotter pin is all good.

 

[Cranky]

If the 'body working' method doesn't work, I just go and borrow one from a local auto parts house.

 

[Richard Cranium]

I have this one. Easy-peasy...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...AUThSdpjI050UIx63bPDUzHYUBxYwQ9saAv9tEALw_wcB

 

[Black_Sheep]

One on far right works for me best, but not a harbor freight one. Otc or snap on.

Mine is a MATCO, it’s paid for itself many times over due to time saved and no damaged parts…