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ignition switch

joseph44

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Hi Everyone: Question I just purchased a 1973 Ply R R when I bought it I was told it needs an ignition switch because engine won't shut of with the key, so I replaced the switch but still can't shut engine down. I was just recently told that there is a separate switch in the steering column for shut down. Now this is the 1st Mopar I bought so I don't know. I have the shop manuals but they went with the vehical down to my sons shop ( not there at the moment). Can someone help me with this if there are 2 switches or not. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!! Have a great wknd and a great wk!!!!! Thanks
 
Hi Everyone: Question I just purchased a 1973 Ply R R when I bought it I was told it needs an ignition switch because engine won't shut of with the key, so I replaced the switch but still can't shut engine down. I was just recently told that there is a separate switch in the steering column for shut down. Now this is the 1st Mopar I bought so I don't know. I have the shop manuals but they went with the vehical down to my sons shop ( not there at the moment). Can someone help me with this if there are 2 switches or not. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!! Have a great wknd and a great wk!!!!! Thanks


Don't know about the two switches, but there are two terminals on the switch - IGN 1 and IGN 2 and they need to be connected properly to their respective terminals. Should show on the electrical diagram. I would also give the start relay a close look at.
 
If your switch is on the column (not sure what year they where moved to the column), then there is most likely a connecting rod from the tumbler to the actual switch mounted farther down the column. At least that's how GM did them and I suspect it was somewhat universal then.
 
Thanks for that information Yatzee but when I replaced the switch there were no terminals on the switch., Are we talking about the steering column? This is on a 73 R R. I replaced 1 switch in the column.
 
Thanks Ranger16:No there is no connecting rod for the switch. I should have told U's I also put a new starter relay on. I appreciate all the help!!!!!
 
ignsw.JPG
The switch you replaced, looked like this, right? If all the wires are correct from the plug that this one fits into, then the spark should be cut off when the key is off.

Do you know how to use a multimeter to check continuity? And do you have a wiring diagram like in the factory service manual. If so for both, you can trace the wires through and also check the switch for continuity and discontinuity at different settings. The continuity is between the power in and the one of the two wires that goes to the ignition. One of those two is live in the start position and the other is live in the on position. It takes some patience, but if I was able to figure it out, you should also be able to figure it out.


I can try to guide you through it, but only have a 1970 service manual for my charger. Things could have changed year to year.
 
A couple of things to check here, and hopefully the wire harnesses are still stock, if not, this may not help. By the way, there is only one ignition switch in the column but there is another harness for the hazard light switch and the turn signal switch and cancel arm.

First, best thing to do would be to follow the Yellow, Dark Blue, and Brown wire from the steering column through the fire wall and to where they terminate and make sure there are no shorts or jumpers. Yellow should go to starter relay, brown goes to ballast resistor. The dark blue wire splits and goes to sever locations including the opposite side of the ballast resistor, voltage regulator, electronic ignition module. Additionally, it is tied into the alternator, its one of the two field wires. Also check the choke wire it is blue and also tied to this circuit.

If you find no shorted or jumpered wires one thing you can do is this. With the car running and the key turned off, disconnect the blue field wire form the alternator, if it the motor stops, you could have bad alternator or voltage regulator and there is feedback causing it not to shut off.

Also a good idea to swap out the ignition module if you have a spare and see if that changes things.
 
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