I ran Crane golds on my stroker which are unbushed, and never a problem. I did buy a set of those stainless rockers a long time ago, and sent them back due to poor quality, pit marks on the rollers.
I'm getting close to switching to a roller cam in the big block!
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Curiousyellow71
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What you have are very good rockers they have the same load rating as HS rockers. I believe HS can handle 900 lbs springs standard or HD the series is rated for 1000lbs. I believe mopars are rated HD. Those mancini's are designed and manufactured by Harlan Sharp and are similiar in design as the old faithful cranes rockers made in the USA. When crane stopped making theirs, mancini stepped up and filled a void in the market. Hughes also has similarly designed rockers for high spring rates.
PRW rockers are made in China and designed here. Someone else would have to chime in on stainless steel rocker fit on a edelbrock rpm heads. Its not a combination we have done.
Aluminum rockers can give up over time if you are pushing them racing w high spring pressure's. But with most solid cams they will last a very long time as they don't see much load. A hydraulic roller isn't stressing much either when you are talking about a rocker rated to handle a 1000 lbs spring.
PRW rockers are made in China and designed here. Someone else would have to chime in on stainless steel rocker fit on a edelbrock rpm heads. Its not a combination we have done.
Aluminum rockers can give up over time if you are pushing them racing w high spring pressure's. But with most solid cams they will last a very long time as they don't see much load. A hydraulic roller isn't stressing much either when you are talking about a rocker rated to handle a 1000 lbs spring.
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not so famous bob
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hughs engines =melonized steel gear on a billet roller , been running one for about 13ish yrs, ...
Hughes does their own cams or are they rebranded from another manufacturer? As that is the route I want to go
Curiousyellow71
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I believe Hughes cams have been custom grinds from Howards for a while now. You should be able to call howards direct and get the same grind off their .904 lobe list. Hughes has never ground cams that I know of and has always ordered them from a cam grinder.
I don't think we have run a Hughes cam, but we currently have a roller cam from Howards. Overall, I prefer the custom Bullet cams we've run. I'm also not a fan of the limited informatiom on the lobe profiles at Hughes. Howards has all the durations listed which I prefer.
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I am a bullet cams dealer and do a lot of custom spec cams. Do you know if Howards offers the iron distributor gear option on their roller cams? I am building a very mild street cruiser and want the reliability of a hydraulic roller but don't want to use a bronze geared oil pump drive. Thanks!
Curiousyellow71
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Yes Howards does at least for HR cams, I think its called the everwear gear, and you can run the stock oil pump gear. Ours is actually the Trick Flow hr cam made by howards, we have a stock distributor gear. Being able to use the stock gear is a nice economy feature over a billet roller cam. I wish Bullet offered it.
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I spoke with Bullet today at PRI and they have a steel gear for the BB intermediate shaft, so I am going that route since I am familiar with their cam lobe profiles.
Curiousyellow71
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I wasnt aware of that but my brother said Bullet has had that available for a long time... but we haven't done it because the Howards cost a lot less. So report back..it will be interesting to see if that is still the case. The Bullet roller cams we have run much quieter then the howards.
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I will do that. Hawk and I were discussing this subject Thursday night. I had no idea the gear would press off of the driveshaft portion.
Who's hydraulic roller lifters have you used with success?
BSB67
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Is it pinned? Do you think you’ll need to re-drill to pin it? Let us know how it goes.
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I've been out in the car a bit the past month and with the current combination, it sure R I P S !
I do remember that the '528 did have more off idle power but this Lunati flat out screams from 3000 to redline.
I suspect that the roller cam I have waiting may run great but not have the same level of thrill unless it surprises me.
If nothing else, I could try it and if I'm not happy with the acceleration, I've already made the leap to a roller setup and from there, it would just be a matter of swapping in a bigger cam while reusing the lifters, timing set, cam button and most likely, pushrods too.
I do remember that the '528 did have more off idle power but this Lunati flat out screams from 3000 to redline.
I suspect that the roller cam I have waiting may run great but not have the same level of thrill unless it surprises me.
If nothing else, I could try it and if I'm not happy with the acceleration, I've already made the leap to a roller setup and from there, it would just be a matter of swapping in a bigger cam while reusing the lifters, timing set, cam button and most likely, pushrods too.
PRHeads
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Sounds like there has been a shift in your driveability priorities since ordering the HR cam.
At that time you had expressed that you weren’t really loving the street manners of the big Lunati and were missing the civility of the old .528.
The HR you got will definitely have less top end power than the Lunati solid.
At that time you had expressed that you weren’t really loving the street manners of the big Lunati and were missing the civility of the old .528.
The HR you got will definitely have less top end power than the Lunati solid.
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I love the acceleration but for the extended road trips where I'm around 2000 rpms, the smaller cam will shine. Right now, as long as I'm already moving, the cam feels great. Adding to that, I still can't shift this Tremec fast over 6000 rpms, it just won't go into the next gear.
It would be interesting to have comparative dyno charts to see how each stacks up. I recall seeing similar cams in similar builds max out around 5500.
It is possible that I'd get used to it and be happy with it.
I'm not complaining, nor am I regretting the choice. We try things out to see if we like them.
A few years back I tried to adopt a mindset that helps with dealing with imperfect situations. It started with eating dinner at restaurants. I decided to not let one instance ruin my outlook.
This isn't the last meal that I'll ever eat.
That concept has served me well. It applies to many things in life.
It would be interesting to have comparative dyno charts to see how each stacks up. I recall seeing similar cams in similar builds max out around 5500.
It is possible that I'd get used to it and be happy with it.
I'm not complaining, nor am I regretting the choice. We try things out to see if we like them.
A few years back I tried to adopt a mindset that helps with dealing with imperfect situations. It started with eating dinner at restaurants. I decided to not let one instance ruin my outlook.
This isn't the last meal that I'll ever eat.
That concept has served me well. It applies to many things in life.
PRHeads
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Just do a few before/after chassis dyno pulls.
I’d expect the peak hp(on an engine dyno) to happen between 5500-6000.
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There is a shop here in town that does dyno pulls on late model Hellcat type stuff, they have had vehicles on site over 1000 HP according to one operator I spoke with at our last car show.
They use some manner of hub mount, avoiding the potential slippage of the tires on the roller.
From what I have seen in the past, it seems that so many dyno runs start at an rpm that is around 3000 rpms. There surely is an explanation as to why they don't start right off of idle. A full idle to redline reading sure would be better for mapping the useable power.
They use some manner of hub mount, avoiding the potential slippage of the tires on the roller.
From what I have seen in the past, it seems that so many dyno runs start at an rpm that is around 3000 rpms. There surely is an explanation as to why they don't start right off of idle. A full idle to redline reading sure would be better for mapping the useable power.
Hemirunner
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With the hub dyno, you can make a full rip right off the trans brake through all the gears simulating a quarter mile pass. If you’re just looking for peak power and the curve information, you’ll get it into high gear and hit it which is what you’re seeing.
Wonder what that would be like dumping the clutch?
andyf
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If you take the time to set up the cams in a block you can compare duration at 0.200, 0.300, 0.400 etc. You'll quickly find out that roller cams keep the valve open for more time than a flat tappet cam. I don't know any cam company that publishes area under the curve but the number should be available to them. It isn't easy to solve with math, but it can be solved graphically without too much work.
andyf
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Did you make a choice on the timing cover? I read most of the thread but never saw you mention my billet cover. The billet cover costs a bunch, but it solves a lot of those issues. I include a plate that allows you to measure the backlash. The timing cover gasket makes a big difference so you have to be careful about which gasket you use.
BB Timing Chain Cover | AR Engineering
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