In Car Valve Spring Removal

[dadsbee]

Yep, that's the one I have - for some reason it doesn't grip and compress the spring enough to get the stem locks out.

See the Red handle??? pencil magnet that makes that lock removal so much easier....

 

[beanhead]

See the Red handle??? pencil magnet that makes that lock removal so much easier....
View attachment 1981412

...helps keep them from flying away to hard-to-reach places too!

 

[Charlie Brown]

You haven't really given a good explanation "going down the rabbit hole" means?
Like I said you go to the trouble of pulling engine if you get a head gasket leak in the near future you will be kicking yourself.
My 383 ran fine when I pulled it.
The heads looked pretty bad inside and a couple ports were skimmed right over with a rust scale.
The heads were warped, yes this could be the rabbit hole but it's so much easier to do with the engine on a stand.
Head removal takes about 15 minutes if you take your time.
I suggest do it once and get everything.

I get what you're saying, but if I pull the heads, maybe a valve job, install hardened seats, mill heads, install new guides - that's the rabbit hole.

 

[bigbluedodge]

I use this style on the dyno when it’s time to reinstall the inner springs after cam break in.

View attachment 1981369

I use this one also. It's not all that much money from Summit and it works well with a little air in the cylinder....like with a leakdown tester for example. 40 or so pounds in the cylinder seems to be enough to remove even roller cam springs.

 

[Fran B]

Holy crap, that is an excellent idea.
My spring compressors are similar to what have been shown...

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I've used the one above before, it is slow going. I still have good hand strength but for those dealing with arthritis or weakness, it absolutely makes sense to put a 1/2" drive receptacle in there. I modified this a few months back...

View attachment 1981386

I have yet to test it.

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I have a roller cam swap planned for the next few weeks so I'll report on how it worked for me. I've used the soft string in the cylinder method too. Rick Ehrenberg from Mopar Action wrote about that. I used the method in 2022....

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Made an extra hook that would go down further than the short hook with a longer hook so it grab the spring. Used a hose clamp around the 3 hooks. Kind of shady but it worked, did 8 exhaust seals on my 65 Dodge. Had to unbolt pass side motor mount and jack up the engine some to VC off.

 

[a70duster]

I've used an empty rocker shaft bolted down to the head and this tool. It's for a Chevy but it worked pretty good.

 

[493 Mike]

I wonder how much a Torrington thrust washer would ease the rotation effort required on the knob style compressor?
Mike

 

[dvw]

I use the tool shown in post #10 by Dwayne. I use a trailer lift bar handle which fits perfect but is curved for better access. Changed springs on my racecar plenty of times in the car. And they are 320/810 psi. The only tough part is on mine the master cylinder needs to come loose from the firewall for cylinder #7. The crank tool works fine on weaker springs. This is a pic using the tool with the head bolted on the bench, very similar. I've listed the link for the curved handle.
Doug

https://www.homedepot.com/p/CURT-We...rsltid=AfmBOopzZcT9hFikI3y-CJjScyI9x6IQVjwroS

 

[Charged440]

I got all ambitious one day just to see of I could pull it off.

 

[1968rt]

Made this one for under $20. You can use one hand to compress the spring and the other to set the locks.