Indentify 4speed?

[koosh]

Make sure the lub you use is rated GL-4, NOT GL-5 as it is hard on your brass synchros. Also unless I missed it, no one mentioned that 833's come in two versions (very hard to tell while installed), the most likely version is the 23 spline input shaft, but the 440/hemi trans had the 18 spline input shaft. 383 cars were equipped with the 23 spline version thus it is much more common. Just my .02.

YUP.....GL-4...gonna rig up maybe a hose from bottle to side hole for filling somehow, so I can drop car down and have the tranny level while filling....

 

[moparwacko]

Unless your car is jacked up more than 20 degrees (highly unlikely) all youre talking is an ounce or 2 of fluid.
Stick with an old blend of fluid, someone mentioned 75-90. These old transmissions were designed for it. If you use a modern blend you're going to have problems with synchro lubrication/quick failure. These are not modern trans designs!
As far as the leak goes replace the BU switch, it comes with a new o ring. And while you're down there re-route that harness away from the shifter linkage.

Btw, somebody has been in that trans, you can tell by the RTV sealant on the side cover - for sure change the fluid.
Have fun
Oh, and get a suction/pump to fill it, self explanatory

 

[koosh]

Unless your car is jacked up more than 20 degrees (highly unlikely) all youre talking is an ounce or 2 of fluid.
Stick with an old blend of fluid, someone mentioned 75-90. These old transmissions were designed for it. If you use a modern blend you're going to have problems with synchro lubrication/quick failure. These are not modern trans designs!
As far as the leak goes replace the BU switch, it comes with a new o ring. And while you're down there re-route that harness away from the shifter linkage.

Btw, somebody has been in that trans, you can tell by the RTV sealant on the side cover - for sure change the fluid.
Have fun
Oh, and get a suction/pump to fill it, self explanatory

Great advice! this "suction/fill pump", where to get this?

 

[moparwacko]

Great advice! this "suction/fill pump", where to get this
[/QUOTE

Like this:

Once drained, suck new fluid in, shoot lubricant in trans til full.

NOTE: NOT FOR PERSONAL HYGIENE USE.




Unless you're into that kind of stuff

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Hi Purple... yes that is my intent, am aware of filling til seeps out side hole, BUT since car front is up on ramps not sure the "level" will be correct without dropping car down again, checking for seepage, then jacking back up again to fit my fat arse under to keep filling!

True...same problem here. All I do is to raise the car on jack stands at all 4 corners as close as I can to being level.....or if driveable, take it to jiffy lube & MAKE SURE they don't put dextron in it!

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Great advice! this "suction/fill pump", where to get this?

These pumps are available for about $15 at Advance, O'Reilly & likely others. Look in the gear lube aisle. They look like ballpark ketchup pumps. Make sure your gear lube is at least room temperature or they have trouble priming (ask me how I know).

 

[koosh]

So....while at work, I stopped local advance auto, saw the Pennzoil Synchromesh----doesn't have any weights listed on the bottle, ie: 85-90w. 90-140w etc.....what puzzled me more: I shook the bottle and it felt like "water" in there it was so light????
I think a Valvoline, Penzzoil 85-90 or close would be much better....that Synchromesh seems like it would like out of everything!

 

[wyrmrider]

Keep digging
the problem with all oils is that the ones in the Manuals from 40 years ago have all been reformulated
some of the modern ones (synthetics) are much better they do not oxidise and do not shear down but you have to watch weights (too thick makes shifting hard and impossible when cold) and GL numbers as mentioned above
e-mail to the lube mfg
call someone you can trust like REDLINE

 

[koosh]

Keep digging
the problem with all oils is that the ones in the Manuals from 40 years ago have all been reformulated
some of the modern ones (synthetics) are much better they do not oxidise and do not shear down but you have to watch weights (too thick makes shifting hard and impossible when cold) and GL numbers as mentioned above
e-mail to the lube mfg
call someone you can trust like REDLINE

yea, I just ran thru all the common auto chain stores, not one of them seem to have GL-4....NAPA listed a "Liqui Moly GL-4" which I have never heard of!
AND: its synthetic which most people here say stay away! It just cant get more confusing!

 

[koosh]

Found it!
Stalube...85-90 GL-4, no additives, plain old GL-4.

 

[wyrmrider]

Google GL4 oil
http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf widman knows his stuff, read his oil write up, Ignore that he focus on corvairs
at the end he has a list (do not know how up to date but if you get through his right up you can figure oils out for yourself)
StaLube is reputable
they also made MOPAR PS fluid for the Rockwell and Thompson/ chrysler pumps but it appears to be gone

 

[koosh]

Thanks!!

 

[wyrmrider]

another good read
so much bad info out there
https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/MTL and MT-90 Tech Info.pdf

 

[wyrmrider]

I received an e-mail from Richard Widman whose paper is linked above
https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=387371&docFormat=

https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=336118&docFormat=PDF

Of the two Chevron products, the first is a standard 80W-90 GL-4, while the Delo is an advanced EP design that is safer for brass components.
https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-90-75w90-gl-4-gear-oil
The Redline would be a great choice for Corvair and many other manual transmissions. It would be a better choice for the 883 than ATF or a traditional 80W-90, but

I would even suggest looking for one of the newer formula 75W-85 to get the best of both worlds.
Thinner than a 75W-90, or 80W-90 (which is really just a single grade 90 on the bottom end of the scale).
This should be readily available, since it is used in almost all manual Toyotas and 5 speed Nissans for the last 10 years or so.

so if I had an 833 anymore I'd follow up on Richards lead- he's an expert not Internet wannabe

 

[wyrmrider]

A couple of oils as Widman suggested- he's in south America where it is more hot than cold
https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-85-75w85-gl-4-gear-oil
https://www.castrol.com/en_nz/new-z...nual-transmission-fluids/syntrans-75w-85.html
a better than average thread
http://www.veloster.org/forum/65-hy...4209-manual-trans-oil-75w-85-vs-75w-90-a.html
lots of 75W-90s out there-including AMSOIL maybe for Desert South West?

The Chevron Delo mentioned above is 80w90
advanced EP design that is safer for brass components.


for automatics Widman says:
One other thing worth trying in any automatic transmission that you want to extend. A bottle of automatic transmission conditioner. It contained a mix of esters (diluted) that clean up discs and soften rings and seals. Seriously, I “fix” dozens of customer cars with a bottle of this stuff every month, even after transmission shops say they need rebuilding.

The synthetic ATF’s are much better, especially for today’s transmissions that operate between 75 and 85ºC. I carry two, one covers the ATF+4 and many of the others, while the other is an LV that covers the Dexron VI, Toyota WS, etc. What is not released to the public to formulate is for the new ZP 8 and 9 speed that Chrysler, Audi, BMW, and a whole bunch more are using these days. It is much thinner and has other different friction properties.

Those Dexron III fluids have a much higher initial grab than the ATF+4, verses a softer but firmer grip in the ATF+4.
They both end up with the same friction after the initial contact/grab, but the Dexron III is a rougher shift, harder on the discs.
perhaps why we get converter shudder with DEX III and the hot rod Allison guys think Dex III is "better"

 

[Ron Keefer]

Make sure the lub you use is rated GL-4, NOT GL-5 as it is hard on your brass synchros. Also unless I missed it, no one mentioned that 833's come in two versions (very hard to tell while installed), the most likely version is the 23 spline input shaft, but the 440/hemi trans had the 18 spline input shaft. 383 cars were equipped with the 23 spline version thus it is much more common. Just my .02.

jt4406. Is there an external way to tell the 18 spline from the 23 spline? Thanks, Ron

 

[wyrmrider]

You could look through the clutch shaft hole but practically speaking nno