Indy Maxx aluminum water jacketed block. Anyone who has one, I have a couple of ??

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  1. Fizz66Coronet

    Fizz66Coronet Well-Known Member

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    I run 11.7 at 111mph on stock suspension spinning the tires . Build a 400 so you can spin more rpm's especially a stroker. I have only made 10 passes in my lifetime. I could be wrong
    .
     
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    • biomedtechguy

      biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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      I appreciate that, but that is a hard NO.
      I want to, no-I absolutely insist on-having 3x2 of "something" feeding the air and fuel into my engine. My Roadrunner is a REAL V-code, and the one fidelity I will not sacrifice to my car's pedigree is the 3x2 intake. That seems to demand a RB block. I am going to start with the $1,000 plus dollar investment I made in Promax parts and labor into the 3 Holley 2bbl carbs I have. I'm confident that they will do a great job making power. If I ever want to enjoy the benefits of EFI, the FiTech 3x2 system is out because it has a 600 horsepower ceiling and that would hold me back. Holley has had a 3x2 Sniper patent application for about 2 years now, but no product yet. F&B has a very flexible 3x2 throttle body port injection system that would definitely handle any amount of power in the range of my imagination, but it costs a lot more than the FiTech, but the F&B may be my only 3x2 EFI choice.
      Maybe Holley will fill the gap with a 3x2 EFI system that splits the cost and performance difference.
       
    • 68 HEMI GTS

      68 HEMI GTS Well-Known Member

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      actually strokers generally need less RPM to make power. 400 blocks do make good engines though. My RR goes 10.90’s on 50 year old stock suspension. It leaves a little bit to be desired but, it’s just a street driver anyway.
       
    • biomedtechguy

      biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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      Currently my 440 consistently, naturally "wants" to go to around 6,200 RPMs. I really can't explain it other than it must, and a few MOPAR fanatics have said they believe, it has the 292°/.509" cam. Better CompCams springs, locks and retainers, and the 6bbl intake and headers. Once I get it on the chassis dyno, I may adjust the shift light (5,800) and rev limiter (6,200) down, if the HP and torque curves demand it.
      As far as the stroker motor goes, I need enough RPMs to cross the finish line in 4th gear with my 4.10 ring and pinion gears. I have 5th for the highway.
       
    • 68 HEMI GTS

      68 HEMI GTS Well-Known Member

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      4.10 gear isn’t much in a b body with any kind of rear tire height. It’ll be just fine with a 500 inch motor. Intake port opening will help dictate the rpm range along with the camshaft. Your issue will be that a cam that would really run isn’t gonna be worth a damn when your trying to cruise around with the air on.
       
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      • biomedtechguy

        biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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        I have the "infinitely variable stall speed" aka 3 pedal transmission if that helps, and I already idle around 900 RPMs. I love the sound of a choppy cam too. I will have to make the AC work around the cam that gives me the best performance, not vice versa. With that 4.10 ring and pinion, the engine runs at fairly high RPMs because of gearing, so unless I'm missing something, I should be ok?
         
      • 68 HEMI GTS

        68 HEMI GTS Well-Known Member

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        I run a 4.10 in the rr. 28” tire, 511 and it traps at 123 mph with an auto. It’s turning more Rpm’s through the traps than where I shift it at but it works fine. I think a 3.73 would probably cause it to loose ET
         
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        • wagonman

          wagonman FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          They used to make a Low Deck 6 BBL, Eddy??
           
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          • 68 HEMI GTS

            68 HEMI GTS Well-Known Member

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            sure did!
            BB472B40-F433-4537-9080-2AE89B08826F.jpeg
             
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            • Dan64

              Dan64 Well-Known Member

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              If your going to run the BCR girdle it's 1/2" thick so just food for thought, you may have to shim your engine mounts for pan clearance and that raises your engine up so make sure have room for your 3x2 set up?. My engine builder liked the caps for my build but didn't seem to think the full girdle was needed at my power point with a stock block (his guess 635-645 hp). We have since changed things up a bit and instead of 11 to 1 it's now more like 10 to 1 ,probably won't see a benefit of aluminum caps at this c.r. but i got them now.
               
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              • Wookie316

                Wookie316 Well-Known Member

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                526 pump gas motor.

                D0214149-B0B9-46D0-8460-1428FFD4C15F.jpeg 00E7883A-CD79-4E2E-A2D8-7AD540718AF1.jpeg
                 
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                • 493roadrunner

                  493roadrunner Member

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                  I don't think you need to spend the money on a indy block for what your intending to build. You can't run that block as is. Mine required complete disassembly, decking, align hone, cleaning,final hone,clean. etc.
                   
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                  • biomedtechguy

                    biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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                    Wookie! You know how much I admire your car "Barney" and I appreciate the help you have given me.
                    For me to see that you have an Indy Maxx, which I assume is the engine in your 71 Charger, makes me think that much more that a Maxx or another aluminum performance block would be a worthwhile investment.
                    It would be a shame to spend so much on a factory block based stroker, get to the point where I am getting the most performance out of that investment, and eventually get the best performance out of me as the driver, and find a lot of cases where "if I only had the headroom for a 150-200 HP shot" I could take out 3/4ths of the rivals that I will always be a car length short of beating in the 1320.
                    But with an aftermarket block, once I get my 6XX HP and Torque stroker sorted out, get the suspension in shape to make the most of that power, and get myself to the point where I feel competent to manage it all, and after a while decide "hey, my friend with the LS supercharged Vette, or my buddy with the 2JZ Conquest, or that a$$hole with the Mustang is only 1/2 quicker than me, time to up my game with a nitrous spray plate system, and KNOW that as long as the power adder is done right I don't really have to worry about damaging my investment, being able to do-or even know that I could do that is so worthwhile!! It would give me something still to aspire to, or fall back on, or just know that if 6XX HP and TQ ever gets "old" I have another step I can go, and in the meantime have the confidence that when I BEAT ON IT (like I do now and know I will) I am not walking on the ragged edge the whole time!
                    Can I get an AMEN?!
                     
                  • Tex013

                    Tex013 Well-Known Member

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                    Get a motor built and in your car ! Then decide where you want to go or who you want to beat .
                    My 440 went 10.71 with a ,520 lift solid flat tappet cam on pump gas through a full exhaust , just changed rear tyres and air cleaner from street to race .
                    My 505 went 10.25 .600 lift flat tappet , but it split the block at 10.50 .
                    What is your actual goal , boasting about hp or racing ? If its just hp , as long as you can smoke tyres on the street just lie about it
                    A girdle is a crutch that doesnt always work

                    Tex
                     
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                    • biomedtechguy

                      biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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                      To get the most out of the investment, and not get to a "if only I had..." moment.
                      I think this says it all:
                       
                    • wagonman

                      wagonman FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                      AMEN I think your projected power levels warrant the after market block. 650 plus a 250 shot you will be praying with a stock block.
                       
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                      • gearheadbill

                        gearheadbill Well-Known Member

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                        I have a Indy maxx 470 sr heads roller cam 11to 1,was built by Indy made 650 hp,was built mainly as a street and strip,runs 10s easily,great motor.n
                         
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                        • biomedtechguy

                          biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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                          10s easily! :thumbsup: :lowdown:
                          I'm dead set on TrickFlow heads, and if I do get an aftermarket block, well WTF!
                          I may as well swing for the fences and do the :lowdown:Max Wedge sized ports of the TF 270s, and a single plane 6bbl intake with the intake ports and runners matched to the MW sized ports. I've had so many people say how important the heads are for a Mopar stroker to make power, and for a STREET/strip build, I certainly can't imagine wanting anything beyond what the TF 270s can do.
                          Thanks for the reply!
                           
                        • Hemirunner

                          Hemirunner Well-Known Member

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                          If you’re swinging for fences, 4.500 bore x 4.500 stroke, TF270’s, Indy EFI Mod Man w/2-4 top, twin 4150 style throttle bodies with nitrous plates all controlled with a Holley Dominator EFI. You could top it with a 70 oval Hemi style air cleaner to use with your Air Grabber.
                           
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                          • biomedtechguy

                            biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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                            Whatever winds up under "it", it's going to have 3x2 Promax modded Holley carbs to start out with, because I already have them, and unless Holley moves forward with the patent they have on a Sniper 3x2 EFI system, and it has a higher HP ceiling than the very nice FiTech 3x2 EFI/TBI system, the only other possibility is a F&B direct port injection 3x2 system, which can be configured up to flowing almost 2,000 cfm, and the flexibility of direct port injection. One of those, but the Promax modded Holley carbs I already have.
                            By "swinging for the fences" I figure with the Max Wedge ports, and a cam to match, and a 150-200 HP spray plate setup (I already have the center spray plate, can add 2 more spray plates, or 2 spacers, or a center spacer and outboard spray plates only...whatever works best without melting pistons, plugs, or valves)
                            What I DON'T want is to have to worry about breaking it, or having to take it apart, ever....
                             
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