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Installing Classic Auto Air in a '70 Charger

And yes, you could run the line from the receiver dryer down low then forward & pass it through a hole the the core support keeping it more out of sight... You could even put a length of black heat shrink over it so it doesn't draw attention to itself... Really there are allot of possibilities..
With fuel or brake lines, I just use random length sections, flare the ends as needed after determining the correct bends and lengths.
Wouldn't I need to do something similar to these?
A/C lines typically have whats called an O ring boss fitting, not a flare... I use to own a tool to make the ends but since I rarely used it & had a guy who offered me three times what I paid for it I no longer have that tool :rofl: You could do a 45 degree flare but aluminum line tends to crack so the best/easiest option is a short hose, I've made hoses from 6" to 10' so thats pretty much easy...
How do you secure the hose? Is it crimped?
How do you secure the hose? Is it crimped?

Yup... I bought a tool kit from Amazon that when I bought it I figured if I could get a couple cars out of it I got my moneys worth... I've been using it now for five years, done probably 25-30 systems with it...

I bought this one..

Now I would consider this one..


But if the hydraulic unit fails then it was a bad idea...
Shoot, man...You seem to have this stuff all figured out.
Thank you!
I've been out of the loop for a few days. I just received the replacement drier. FBBO member 1 Wild R/T informed me of something that wasn't shown in the instructions.
The drier is not supposed to be open to the elements for very long. The instructions show the installation to be simple: Attach this, install that, connect this, etc. I learned quickly that there was some additional work that was needed to make the stuff fit. The time it took to make a spacer bracket for the drier and to get the bolts from the hardware store probably resulted in contamination to the drier. I intend now to keep the original in place until all the lines are cut and crimped, then switch the original one for the replacement.
I'm still waiting for the taller brackets for the compressor. I got an email today stating that the brackets have been shipped. I ordered them August 29th, about a week and a 1/2 ago.
The routing of the lines is often done with function in mind without a whole lot of consideration for appearance. This kit has both the liquid and discharge lines on the drivers side with the liquid line going from the drivers fender apron ACROSS the engine and then into the firewall. 1 Wild R/T thought it looked cluttered and I agree. I prefer the line to be over on the RH apron and laying over the core support like shown below:
The pictures below are NOT my car! Red paint, yes but NOT mine.
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The Road Runner above has both lines to and from the condenser on the right side. (As viewed from the drivers seat) This is either a modified Classic system or something else like Vintage Air.
I called Classic Auto Air and the man said that all their '68-70 B body kits use the same lines routed the same way. I am going to look into using a new hard line from the drier to and over the core support. then across the condenser to the fitting. The discharge line that connects to the compressor will stay on the drivers side.
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On sound advice, I decided to reroute a few lines to make things look cleaner.
It is shown in the instructions to have both the liquid and gas lines run behind the battery and then go over LH valve cover. The liquid line was supposed to continue across the engine toward the RH fender apron, then turn toward the firewall and connect to the drier. That is a busy and cluttered look.

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I think I'd leave the condenser as is, I'd just rework the liquid line to come out of the condenser, turn 90 degrees straight up, then 90 degrees along the radiator support & then 90 degrees up & slightly forward and continue with 90ish degrees rearward over the radiator support & have it end short of the dryer & use a short hose to reach the dryer since you aren't set up to make a custom length hard line... Personally I'd probably email Classic & suggest they look at making a revised line..

Since I've worked on A/C since the 70's even though I didn't want it cluttering my engine bay I did pay attention & now that I'm of an age where I appreciate A/C it's been helpful..
I have the same kit in the Coronet. I rebent the hardline to run in front of the radiator. The supplied rubber hose connects to the line in front of the radiator on the passenger side, then runs up over the rad support behind the washer reservoir to the dryer. I used a hand bender so its not pretty. But I like your version better because I still have to fab a bracket to secure the hardline to the T bracket that holds the hood release mechanism.

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I went to the Summit store in Reno today to get the different fittings that I need to complete this job. They had almost everything in stock. I had to order one fitting but I'm going to see if I can find it locally. Yesterday I called a few places but they claimed that they didn't sell parts. Maybe I can convince someone to help me out. I have a "Borrowed" hose crimper and I don't want to inconvenience the owner by keeping it too long.
I do have all of those within 15 minutes of me. I didn't expect them to have it but I will check.
Thank you yet again.
I went to the Summit store in Reno today to get the different fittings that I need to complete this job. They had almost everything in stock. I had to order one fitting but I'm going to see if I can find it locally. Yesterday I called a few places but they claimed that they didn't sell parts. Maybe I can convince someone to help me out. I have a "Borrowed" hose crimper and I don't want to inconvenience the owner by keeping it too long.
Wow Greg you're determined. That's almost a 2 hour drive each way.
Well, just like you, I have a supportive woman that was willing to join along! We ate dinner at The Outback and rolled back home.
Here is a sloppy drawing of how I was considering to run the liquid line:


Starting at the firewall, there is a #6 line with a jog in it along with the pressure switch. The drier attaches here. The forward side of the drier is where I begin here. I'd use a 45* bent fitting to a rubber hose, to a 30" hard line bent to lay on the epron then over the core support, into a rubber hose running across the hood latch support, turning down then turning into the bottom fitting of the condenser.
1 Wild R/T thinks that all those crimp connections raise the risk of leaks. I agree. Hard lines would be ideal but the problem is, I have no way to make the special odd flare type shape these ends need to seal right. With fuel lines, I just shape them to fit then flare the end that I cut off. To make hard lines work without changing the ends, you need to be creative with the bending and routing.
I just went out and measured and at first glance, it looks like if I start at the drier with a 60" hard line and follow the same path, the 60" line will end above the condenser at the drivers side. From there, I could finish with a 30" hard line or a hose with 2 90 degree fittings.
I keep running into dead ends trying to find hard lines. Summit has them but sometimes you want a part NOW and waiting a day or more sucks! I checked two shops, a NAPA store, Two A/C suppliers and still can't find a 48" or a 60" hard line. I get excuses: We don't have that, we don't deal in aluminum, we don't do automotive, etc...
I received a box in the mail today....

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Lucky for ME the stuff inside wasn't fragile.

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Now I can bolt up the compressor and at least crimp a few lines.
(After doing some delayed yardwork)
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I'd still be a little pissed about the package getting treated like that.. I'd have a discussion with my mailperson if I ever found that in my box, its disrespectful...what if it was break-able...
They drop it at my door if it wont fit in my box.
Glad you got the parts though. Your install is going along nicely.
The compressor is in but what a pisser it was.
The new brackets fit great but I would have liked to have even more clearance than it gave. The thermostat housing bolt and the compressor are still really close. An aftermarket chrome housing would surely be too tall.
The instructions were helpful. I did have a pisser of a time with the bolt that secures the compressor bracket and the power steering pump. What a mess that is there....The "stack" that the bolt has to line up through includes, in THIS order....Compressor pump bracket, 3/16" thick spacer, front edge of the P/S bracket, water pump housing, rear P/S bracket, rear Compressor bracket THEN a nut. Check out the tight clearance:
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That point on the flat faced section of the cylinder head left NO room to get the bolt through and put any sort of nut on it. I had to do something, so I did THIS:

CAA 6.jpg

No coolant leaked out so I think I'm okay there. (Ha ha)

It fits now.
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