Installing Hydroboost and bigger brakes in a 1970 Charger

[1 Wild R/T]

I'm open to all suggestions. I'm trying this unit mainly because it was free and because if it works, it should work far better than a manual setup.

What reasons are given for the people that removed their HB setups? Failed booster? Poor "feel" ? The one drawback that I have read is that they can be really sensitive and not as linear as manual or vacuum boosted systems. In other words, it has been said by some that it took some getting used to before they felt comfortable with them.

One didn't like the feel at all.. And having driven the car I agree... The other unit failed while driving at 35 mph, it suddenly locked all four wheels with no warning.. If he'd been in traffic or worse a mountain road or an interstate it could have been much worse...

 

[kiwigtx]

I had a vacuum pump mounted behind the driver side headlights up in the wheelwell. It made noise but was drowned out by the engine. It worked fine.
A little confession here.....
I did not seek out the Hydroboost as a solution. I had actually already pulled the '75 Dart booster and MC and had installed a 15/16" manual master cylinder.

I too almost fitted a vacuum pump under the front fender of my GTX a few years ago. In the end I decided it was much easier to just de-cam the engine and get my vacuum back that way. I had also heard from a couple of people that even with a vacuum reservoir, you might still only get two good pumps before running out.

Now I am mid-project on another brake upgrade in my A100. While not going Hydroboost, I did also toy with the idea last year - and not for the brakes. I looked at HB for the steering pump hydraulic power. My brakes are managed by a remote booster behind the driver's side wheel. I spent nearly two years trying to find a suitable steering alternative for my truck, and eventually managed to source a steering box that looks like it will fit the small amount of space I have to work with.
So for the power, I have a stock setup with a new small block steering pump and brackets - just enough room to squeeze it all in.

This thread will be useful for some of the tips you have already shown.

Thanks.

 

[Kern Dog]

First a couple links..

Earl's Performance AN to Metric Adapter Fittings - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Detroit Speed Inc 090202SDS

So Basically those fittings do the same thing as this style tube.

View attachment 1358504
However the Banjo fitting with the O ring seal should seal on the machined surface where the pink arrow is pointing..
View attachment 1358503

If the area by the threads is chamfered (I don't believe it is) then you would need a o ring boss style fitting
View attachment 1358505

I need to have someone help me test thread the brass fittings into other fittings to determine what they are.
Part of my trouble here is that I simply don't know what I have. This makes it impossible to order an alternative to what I have.
To further explain....
If I knew for example that the HB had metric threads of say 16mm, I could just call or order banjo fittings in that size. The guy I spoke with at the hydraulic shop may have known the thread type but the design at the end of the brass fittings was something that he hadn't seen before. They didn't have the banjo fittings so it was a moot point there.
Here is a question....Does a "minus sign" before a number mean that it is a female fitting? -6 for example?

I think that what I need is probably available, I just need to learn what it is to know how to ask for it.

 

[Kern Dog]

I too almost fitted a vacuum pump under the front fender of my GTX a few years ago. In the end I decided it was much easier to just de-cam the engine and get my vacuum back that way. I had also heard from a couple of people that even with a vacuum reservoir, you might still only get two good pumps before running out.

Now I am mid-project on another brake upgrade in my A100. While not going Hydroboost, I did also toy with the idea last year - and not for the brakes. I looked at HB for the steering pump hydraulic power. My brakes are managed by a remote booster behind the driver's side wheel. I spent nearly two years trying to find a suitable steering alternative for my truck, and eventually managed to source a steering box that looks like it will fit the small amount of space I have to work with.
So for the power, I have a stock setup with a new small block steering pump and brackets - just enough room to squeeze it all in.

This thread will be useful for some of the tips you have already shown.

Thanks.

I have always liked the A-100 and A-108 vans and trucks. They had some unusual and specific parts. The transmission case with the mount on the top of the transmission case really surprised me.
I'm a bit confused about your post above....Are the A-100s all manual steering vehicles? If so, I didn't know that.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Dash numbers.. standard hose & fitting sizes.. 16ths of an inch.. -4 = 1/4" -6 = 3/8" -8 = 1/2 -12 = 3/4" & -16 = 1"... Oh -20 = 1 1/4"

 

[kiwigtx]

I have always liked the A-100 and A-108 vans and trucks. They had some unusual and specific parts. The transmission case with the mount on the top of the transmission case really surprised me.
I'm a bit confused about your post above....Are the A-100s all manual steering vehicles? If so, I didn't know that.

To the best of my knowledge, they were all manual steering vehicles. It wasn't until the bigger trucks came along that the steering got power assist - in the form of a ram attached to the drag link underneath the beam axle.

A few people around the world have successfully adapted electric steering units to the A100, but I wasn't prepared for the drama involved with certification - and we're not allowed to legally cut the steering columns here.
Using 'factory' style parts gets around some hurdles.

 

[Kern Dog]

Dash numbers.. standard hose & fitting sizes.. 16ths of an inch.. -4 = 1/4" -6 = 3/8" -8 = 1/2 -12 = 3/4" & -16 = 1"... Oh -20 = 1 1/4"

That is what I thought. I'm curious as to why they use the dash number rather than the actual fraction number.
The dash doesn't indicate male or female ends?
I guess I'll have to find some place that will let me test fit these brass fittings to determine the size for myself.

Dr Diff did send me this picture of what he thought my fittings were.

I'm still confused because The right one is totally different and the end on the left one (at the bottom) seems to be a -6 on mine.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

That is what I thought. I'm curious as to why they use the dash number rather than the actual fraction number.
The dash doesn't indicate male or female ends?
I guess I'll have to find some place that will let me test fit these brass fittings to determine the size for myself.

By now I hope you own digital calipers.. If so a few simple measurements and you would know..

Hydraulic Fitting Thread Chart | Hydraulics Direct

 

[HEMIB]

Pretty sure that hydroboost is upside down my 2 cars have the nitrogen cylinder to the inner fender ,i used the normal Challenger Disc front ,Drum rear that system will put you through the windscreen to lessen the boost use a ford bypass valve on the pump the original is about 1200 psi versus 850 for the ford bypass also using Borgenson steering box i have some better pics somewhere if it helps

 

[Kern Dog]

Pretty sure that hydroboost is upside down my 2 cars have the nitrogen cylinder to the inner fender.

I have seen the accumulator cylinder on both sides. I'm sure mine is on correctly based on the fittings being on top and this notch at the bottom:

 

[Kern Dog]

Hydraulic Fitting Thread Chart | Hydraulics Direct

Thank you, that does help.
I went back out and took another look. I didn't notice before that there are two different fittings on this unit.

The one on the left has 18 mm threads, the right has 16 mm. The bigger one goes in the INput port at the 10:00 position. Note the taper on the fitting and in the seat of the HB unit.

Knowing that, I would need an 18 mm x 1.5 banjo for that side and a 16mm banjo for the other but both with -6 AN threads on the other end.

 

[HEMIB]

I have seen the accumulator cylinder on both sides. I'm sure mine is on correctly based on the fittings being on top and this notch at the bottom:

View attachment 1358536

OK i have the compressed nitrogen can away from the exhaust as it can get pretty hot i guess either way will work .

 

[themechanic]

FYI, the site I linked to on page 2 will be a good resource to call for parts and questions as he custom builds hydro boost systems for your needs.

 

[themechanic]

Check out this eBay store. He sells a billet MC flange that's clockable so you can turn the booster to suit your specific needs.

NEW '71-'74 Mopar B & '70-'74 E Body Hydroboost and mount | eBay

After installing my hydroboost he tested it at what you can see in my last pic above. It's what dispels myths. #3 Installing a hydroboost does not just make your pedal easier to press, ask anyone who has hydroboost installed.

www.ebay.com

 

[Jesse6869]

I ordered these not sure if it helps

 

[ckessel]

Greg, once you get the hose situation figured out[ length, angle of the dangle etc], mark the hose and crimp fittings so they will be clocked where you need them. You can use masking tape on the hose and crimp fitting with a mark opposing each other. Can't move them once they are crimped.

 

[Kern Dog]

I ordered these not sure if it helps View attachment 1358653

I see.....

Hydroboost Fittings​

From Pure Choice Motorsports

These steel fittings were designed by PURE Choice Motorsports for this application to allow clearance and direction of hoses, From sealing surface to top of banjo Bolt is .890.... less than 1 inch. ( use of Banjos required a machine like surface about .120 wide to seal correctly.)


P/N 11840 Banjo 16m bolt to -6 AN male
P/N 11850 Banjo 18m bolt to -6 AN male
P/N 11855 Str. 5/16-24 male to -6 AN male
Complete Set
P/N 11895 All 3 pieces

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

KD - what front brake pads did the Dr Diff setup come with? Have you considered researching more aggressive pads? I know different compounds with more friction can make a big difference. The challenge is choosing pads that have good bite with low noise. I was running the Wilwood BP-10's for a long time and am in the process of breaking in some EBC Reds and comparing.

I think it's also time I try improving pedal ratio by doing the brake pedal lever hole drilling to reposition things like you did.

 

[Kern Dog]

I don’t know which pads he included. I’ll message you privately with more information.

 

[Kern Dog]

I think it's also time I try improving pedal ratio by doing the brake pedal lever hole drilling to reposition things like you did.

If you want this one that I modified, you can have it. All you’d have to do is swap it in. I’d suggest an adjustable brake pushrod though. This pedal could sit too high with a stock pushrod.