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iron heads or aluminium

moparsquid

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
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Im planning on building a old school fuel injected gasser what heads whould be bested suited for the use im not sure if im able to use aluminum because im trying to be true to the era and look as much as possible
 
Depends on what your intentions are, if you want to remain true to the era then I think you are going to have to use iron heads. Obviously you can get iron heads to flow and work well. If however performance is more important than aluminum heads may yield better results.
 
Im planning on building a old school fuel injected gasser what heads whould be bested suited for the use im not sure if im able to use aluminum because im trying to be true to the era and look as much as possible
I have the 440 source Stealth alum heads Max wedge port, they look just like a stock iron head, with Stack EFI
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I'm a believer in iron heads and in the past have went to great lengths to keep them. That being said stealth aluminum heads have benefits with better flow out of the box and you can have higher compression without detonation. The last set of 915 heads I had done cost about $3200 on a set that I already had. 214/181 valves, hardened seats, ported intake and exhaust, new guides and seals, and triple springs to about 600 lift. This was 10 years ago or more. Today's cost???
 
It kinda depends on what you are going to do with the car. If you want to race it in a nostalgia class, you had better build according to the rules. For example, SEGA forbids any aftermarket head, alum or iron.
If you are building it for yourself, and not for a racing class, build what YOU want. But.... i wouldnt put a bunch of money in iron heads, i'd put paint on a set of 440source heads, (or any aluminum head you want).
 
I use cnc ported Stealth heads. My mild combo in a heavy car still runs low 11's in the quarter n/a and a best of 10.01 with a small shot.

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Saving 40lbs on the nose would be a big plus going to aluminum also.
 
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