Is this acceptable chrome job?
- Thread starter kevin403
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To get a nice looking job you need to start out with pieces that are not pitted.....
Ron Ward
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Looks like it was pretty pitted up... {banged up maybe}
But that's pretty bad...
"Allegedly" Casted mixed alloy pieces or "Pot metal" has problems when trying to re-chrome it, it has allot of impurities in it too, I've actually heard some guys, won't even take it in to re-chrome, because of issue like that...
I wonder if after it's stripped, if they could just copper dip it, dress it, dip & dress, dip it dress it etc., {probably more cost effective to buy reproductions unfortunately} dip & dress them, as many times as it takes...
At-least get it flat 1st, before going back into the chrome dip...
I'm no Chrome expert thou...
But that's pretty bad...
"Allegedly" Casted mixed alloy pieces or "Pot metal" has problems when trying to re-chrome it, it has allot of impurities in it too, I've actually heard some guys, won't even take it in to re-chrome, because of issue like that...
I wonder if after it's stripped, if they could just copper dip it, dress it, dip & dress, dip it dress it etc., {probably more cost effective to buy reproductions unfortunately} dip & dress them, as many times as it takes...
At-least get it flat 1st, before going back into the chrome dip...
I'm no Chrome expert thou...
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Pits can be fixed and believe it or not, to do it properly, it's the same process as dentistry. The cavity has to be drilled out, filled with silver, and ground smooth. And it aint cheap.
kevin403
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When I brought them in they weren't too bad... I guess I was wrong.
Anybody out there with another set of letters for my 68 Coronet?
My tail lights didn't come out the way I had hoped either. I think I'll go with the repros when I have some more cash.
Anybody out there with another set of letters for my 68 Coronet?
My tail lights didn't come out the way I had hoped either. I think I'll go with the repros when I have some more cash.
Herr_Poopschitz
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I would hope that a company would notify a customer that the product won't come out 'perfect' and talk about other options...
kevin403
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If I find another set I'll give it a try. Some silver solder and flux paste? I wish someone reproduced the letters instead...
bigmanjbmopar
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I would buy a new set then use tht screwed up set to practice on. Good luck
cr8crshr
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As RC said it can be restored but very very pricy. When Pot Metal becomes corroded and pitted it is because it is a very soft metal and salt just loves to eat it. Keep looking for a replacement set is about the only good alternative...cr8crshr/Tuck
chapdog105
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I know the price has gotten out of control over the past few year.
I heard that the EPA has created so many restrictions, that it has driven the cost up dramatically.
I heard that the EPA has created so many restrictions, that it has driven the cost up dramatically.
GetX'd
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Bummer man. If it's made out of pot metal I hear there are very few places that will take that stuff in for refinishing. You might call the King of Trim in Hollywood CA to see if he can do anything with it. Google it for the number.
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Looks like you got what you asked for. Platers plate. if you wanted the pits ground and filled each letter would cost 75.00 each. new letters are 30.00 each.
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Do you have pictures of the 'before' versions? I understand how you feel, I'd be unhappy too. Did the plater claim experience with cast zinc?
kevin403
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Unfortunately, I didn't take pics of the letters, it was a last minute decision to do the letters.
I'm watching these muggy weld videos... And am thinking of trying.
http://muggyweld.com/pot-metal-repair
See if I can get some letters first.
I'm watching these muggy weld videos... And am thinking of trying.
http://muggyweld.com/pot-metal-repair
See if I can get some letters first.
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They have to be neer perfect because the chrome will enhance the pits... you have nothing to loose on these... I would suggest getting something else cheap to practice on like a Chevy part then when you get the knack do the mopar ones. I'm big on practice parts
67 Power Wagon
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<--- done my time with Zinc, and the best thing I can tell you is yes as stated it can be repaired, costly? you bet!, Time consuming? You bet! Takes even more time, to do it right? YES! Granted, I know of a way that may work, BUT, you have to go a specific route to do it....
The pits, drill them out, with the next SMALLEST drill bit then the actual "circumference" of the pit, ALL the way through....
DO NOT do any thats "really" close to each other (this is WHY its expensive!) As this, will weaken the pot metal (zinc) while your working BUT will make sense in a bit....
Do about half of the amount of pits there, drilled ALL the way through.
THEN clean with a serious cleaner, ANY oven cleaner will work and a few pipe cleaners to be able to get into the hole with it....When done with the oven cleaner, take and dip a fresh pipe cleaner in Acetone, to remove ANY residue, and evaporate and leave nothing behind on the metal surface of the hole your cleaning
DO THIS cleaning step, at least twice!
The reason you want to drill all the way through is for ease of cleaning the metal surface! Drilling pot metal, causes heat, to much heat in it will make it crack! Drilling it, one hole at the top, then one hole at the bottom, and then one hole at the top and back to the bottom, DO NOT drill the holes close, no closer then 1/16th- 3/32th inch. This will allow the zinc to channel the heat away, like a "heat sink" does....
Then on the back side of the emblem or letter, add tape...NOT painters tape, MASKING tape, the white(ish) 2 inch wide stuff.....COVER the bottoms of the holes!!!!!!! BURNISH the tape onto the surface RUB into for the adhesive to "grab"...
Once you got the tape in place, raise the bottom of the hole. Now, I know your gonna say how in the hell do you do that? fill half way with 2500 degree LIQUID epoxy filler/glue. DO NOT fill to the top of the hole!!!!!! Leave about 1/16th to 1/8 (depending on the size of the hole, the bigger the hole the more "metal filler", the smaller the hole, the less "metal filler".
Let this dry/cure for 72 hours! Humid. 80 hours!
DO NOT SKIP ON TIME with the cure factor! The adhesion of the metal filler will not take hold if you do!
When the time has passed and it is dry, but not just, CURE all the way through, you can now prime whats left of that "hole" you drilled, prime the hole with the silver flux, heat, and add till its a "bubble" OVER the edge of the parts surface (you must have SOMETHING to remove to smooth it!) Again, DO NOT SKIMP here, it WILL show!
Remember when I said NOT to drill to close ? Heres is the OTHER reason, that heat factor, again! The silver solder is going to have heat all the way to the epoxy filler, sure the epoxy is heat resistant, BUT has to be! The heat will still harm the pot metal (zinc) if its applied to close! Almost like welding cast iron! Which is a slow process of heating BEFORE and doing a stitch weld on it to close up the 2 sections.....See? All make sense now? I hope this ALL teeters on the job and looks your trying to achieve!
WHEN its ground off, and polished smooth NOT a mirror type polish BUT a flat, metal smooth looking "polish" and you are OK with its looks.
THEN repeat ALL these steps, AFTER one day has passed! To allow "settling" and drill out those you didn't the first time around, AGAIN drill slowly, and keep a good sharp point drill on hand at all times, the newer, better or best quality you can get, is what you need for this work!
A good drill bit with cutting fluid works best!
Do this over and over, till your happy with the end result, or how they look, to tell your work is easy, go to your local Wally World, buy a rattle can of gloss black spray paint, and spray a coat onto the emblems or letters, the paint, when dry will SHOW ANY and EVERY imperfection,. you left behind! Its just how black paint is!
To remove the black? Soak in Acetone, OR remove with M.E.K, and even lightly sand blast the parts to be chromed! With the FINEST grit "black Beauty" you can get yer hands on!
All I'll say now, is the word "PLYMOUTH" one letter at a time, SUCKS, and the whole word all letters connected is just about as bad! I've done it to both.....
Sadly, I should have gotten pictures of that work....I'm 700 miles away from that car today!
The pits, drill them out, with the next SMALLEST drill bit then the actual "circumference" of the pit, ALL the way through....
DO NOT do any thats "really" close to each other (this is WHY its expensive!) As this, will weaken the pot metal (zinc) while your working BUT will make sense in a bit....
Do about half of the amount of pits there, drilled ALL the way through.
THEN clean with a serious cleaner, ANY oven cleaner will work and a few pipe cleaners to be able to get into the hole with it....When done with the oven cleaner, take and dip a fresh pipe cleaner in Acetone, to remove ANY residue, and evaporate and leave nothing behind on the metal surface of the hole your cleaning
DO THIS cleaning step, at least twice!
The reason you want to drill all the way through is for ease of cleaning the metal surface! Drilling pot metal, causes heat, to much heat in it will make it crack! Drilling it, one hole at the top, then one hole at the bottom, and then one hole at the top and back to the bottom, DO NOT drill the holes close, no closer then 1/16th- 3/32th inch. This will allow the zinc to channel the heat away, like a "heat sink" does....
Then on the back side of the emblem or letter, add tape...NOT painters tape, MASKING tape, the white(ish) 2 inch wide stuff.....COVER the bottoms of the holes!!!!!!! BURNISH the tape onto the surface RUB into for the adhesive to "grab"...
Once you got the tape in place, raise the bottom of the hole. Now, I know your gonna say how in the hell do you do that? fill half way with 2500 degree LIQUID epoxy filler/glue. DO NOT fill to the top of the hole!!!!!! Leave about 1/16th to 1/8 (depending on the size of the hole, the bigger the hole the more "metal filler", the smaller the hole, the less "metal filler".
Let this dry/cure for 72 hours! Humid. 80 hours!
DO NOT SKIP ON TIME with the cure factor! The adhesion of the metal filler will not take hold if you do!
When the time has passed and it is dry, but not just, CURE all the way through, you can now prime whats left of that "hole" you drilled, prime the hole with the silver flux, heat, and add till its a "bubble" OVER the edge of the parts surface (you must have SOMETHING to remove to smooth it!) Again, DO NOT SKIMP here, it WILL show!
Remember when I said NOT to drill to close ? Heres is the OTHER reason, that heat factor, again! The silver solder is going to have heat all the way to the epoxy filler, sure the epoxy is heat resistant, BUT has to be! The heat will still harm the pot metal (zinc) if its applied to close! Almost like welding cast iron! Which is a slow process of heating BEFORE and doing a stitch weld on it to close up the 2 sections.....See? All make sense now? I hope this ALL teeters on the job and looks your trying to achieve!
WHEN its ground off, and polished smooth NOT a mirror type polish BUT a flat, metal smooth looking "polish" and you are OK with its looks.
THEN repeat ALL these steps, AFTER one day has passed! To allow "settling" and drill out those you didn't the first time around, AGAIN drill slowly, and keep a good sharp point drill on hand at all times, the newer, better or best quality you can get, is what you need for this work!
A good drill bit with cutting fluid works best!
Do this over and over, till your happy with the end result, or how they look, to tell your work is easy, go to your local Wally World, buy a rattle can of gloss black spray paint, and spray a coat onto the emblems or letters, the paint, when dry will SHOW ANY and EVERY imperfection,. you left behind! Its just how black paint is!
To remove the black? Soak in Acetone, OR remove with M.E.K, and even lightly sand blast the parts to be chromed! With the FINEST grit "black Beauty" you can get yer hands on!
All I'll say now, is the word "PLYMOUTH" one letter at a time, SUCKS, and the whole word all letters connected is just about as bad! I've done it to both.....
Sadly, I should have gotten pictures of that work....I'm 700 miles away from that car today!
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