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Jack stand placement for floor pan replacement

Durandal25

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I don't see a lot of direct replies for this question....but, I'm going to tackle the driver side floor pan replacement soon, and wanted to know the best way to support the car while doing this. I've read supporting the rear axle and lower
arms is a good method....but wanted to make sure. Car appears to be straight, all measurements line up so far.....
 
Yes, keep the weight on the wheels or the suspension (LCAs). That said I don't think doing just a single pan will affect anything. Have fun!
Mike
.
 
Spot welds are entertaining...
 
Positioning is overrated. Unless its a REALLY rotten piece of crap it ain't gonna move. If the engine and drivetrain is still in the car put the stands under the rear axle and between the k-member arms in front. If the drivetrain is out then put the stands just in front of the front crossmember on the frame rails and on the rear frame rails in the area of the front spring perches. Reality ... it will make little difference.
 
Ive seen a lot of comments over the years about this subject and at one time I was concerned about it until i visited a resto shop and saw a car that the entire floor had been removed from. I asked the owner of the shop and he said he had done many cars and never welds in any braces unless the frames were severely rotted out as well and or the roof is bad. I put floors into my 73 Cuda on a rotisserie, put them in my Challenger while it was on the ground with jack stands under it and am putting them into my 70 RR while it is on the hoist...
 
Ain't that the truth. Have fun with the ones joining the firewall !!

......yes....that is a mo-fo for sure.....but, I guess the best technique is to cut out the pan middle and work the edges like that one....with it open.....
 
I'm doing one now. Engine and trans are out, but I think I will leave that front firewall pinchweld alone. Going to trim the front lip off of the AMD full pan, leave about 1" of the old floor attached all the way across, and use panel bond to attach. The pinchweld flange looks pretty shallow, and I don't want to mangle it, as it is very clean and solid. The panel bond will attach it as well as seal it. Then some more seam sealer to be safe.
 
That flange is narrow. Even from the factory they welded along the seam inside the car.
 
Starting fitting. May leave seam at top alone.... as it’s in great shape.....

DDB4836F-8E89-41DE-A2C6-0D60D93D356D.jpeg
 
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