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Kick down Adjustment

Lengthened the rod a turn and tried it again today. Oddly the 1-2 shift seemed to be quicker - still no kick down from 3-2 at 40 mph….
I’m at the limit of lengthening the rod. I fabbed up a coupler nut and piece of 1/4-28 rod to extend the length but will have to wait until next week to try it. I know I shouldn’t have too extend it. Not sure if the kick down rod is incorrect or what at this point.
 
Are you using a "higher" intake? Anything non OEM? Stock intake and carb you should not need to extend it indeed.
Higher intake changes things, or as you mentioned the rod is not the correct one for the car.
Not sure how to find out, any part numbers on the rod that can help identify?
The 1-2 and 2-3 shift points are better now than before? What changed?
 
The intake is stock. Carb is stock. I’ll have to look for a part number on the linkage. Since the lever at the tranny is fit on a half moon shaft I don’t think there’s any slop there to take up. Must be the linkage is bent or wrong for the motor.
I’m not sure if I would consider the shift pattern as improved. 1-2is not too bad, albeit a bit quicker than I’d like. 2-3 comes in too quick and of course there’s no 3-2 kick down. My last move was to lengthen the rod which seemed to shorten the shift pattern a bit. This surprised me as I thought it would do the opposite.
 
There is like a "linkage ratio" on these things, for example, a 2" stroke for the carb to go from idle to WOT is converted to 1-5/8" of stroke at the throttle linkage at the transmission.
If it becomes say a 1:1 ratio it is likely the throttle pressure is falling behind on the throttle.

At least on my trans ('69 727-B) the first section of throttle linkage of the transmission side there is no "feedback" or spring pressure.
I assume this section of the linkage is fully slack and does not interact with the actual valve spool inside the valve body, if the linkage adjustment causes the usage of this "no-feedback" part it is a dead area and causes problems down the line as the throttle pressure is lacking behind and governor pressure will be forcing the shift too early.

I don't know the physical difference between the linkage you have and what the later models use.
I was looking at mancini as I remember they used to have all throttle/kick down linkages but I did not find them there anymore.
Would be worth looking for some information regarding the lengths and differences between the years so you can confirm yours is the correct length.
 
Lengthened the rod a turn and tried it again today. Oddly the 1-2 shift seemed to be quicker - still no kick down from 3-2 at 40 mph….
I’m at the limit of lengthening the rod. I fabbed up a coupler nut and piece of 1/4-28 rod to extend the length but will have to wait until next week to try it. I know I shouldn’t have too extend it. Not sure if the kick down rod is incorrect or what at this point.

Did you try to shorten the rod? I might have had it backwards as to which way it is to lengthen the shift between gears.

You're not going to have much or any "kickdown" on these trans. It wasn't designed into them like the later ones.
 
I might have had it backwards as to which way it is to lengthen the shift between gears.
When making it longer it is like pushing it backwards, which should actuate the throttle spool more and increase pressure.
That would move the shift point up higher as the governor needs more centrifugal force the feed the pressure to overcome the line pressure.
Or maybe both of us are already going backward of age? lol
 
Still messing with this adjustment. I lengthened the kick down rod a bit by bending it and have enough thread now to push the lever full back. I’ll try it out tomorrow…
Another question came to mind regarding the adjustment of the kick down band. The TM directions seem straight forward enough - tighten the bolt to 72 inch lbs and back off two turns and lock it down. Anyone know of a way to replace the darn factory tool that fits the bolt head? Any tricks for this adjustment?
 
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