Leaking 727B transmission

[dadsbee]

Yep.. why we cheat.. clean and seal!!! Or you can cut the retainer "tab" off the tail housing with a cut wheel in a dremel and then make a little metal bracket to bolt back on and retain the pin.

 

[dvw]

Cutting the retainer off will get you nowhere. You'll never get the pin out. And if you somehow were able to remove the pin, all the reverse band linkage would fall in the pan. You need to pull the tail shaft, valve body and rear band linkage and to remove the pin. Just seal it as I mentioned. It's not worth the hassle to swap the O ring. It can be done neatly if you work at it.
Doug

 

[dadsbee]

He has the pan off Doug...

 

[dvw]

To get the rear band shaft out the valve body has to be removed. Then the rear band adjuster is loosened. Remove the band strut. Knock the band anchor pin out from the front through the access hole in the case. Take a picture first so you can see how it goes back together. Along with this, the tail shaft still needs to be removed as well.
Doug

 

[1963JAM]

To get the rear band shaft out the valve body has to be removed. Then the rear band adjuster is loosened. Remove the band strut. Knock the band anchor pin out from the front through the access hole in the case. Take a picture first so you can see how it goes back together. Along with this, the tail shaft still needs to be removed as well.
Doug

Thank you for the help, but tranny is staying in the car. I’ll clean up the exterior pin area outside case and glop on the RTV to plug it up.
Thank you Doug.
John

 

[Dave6T4]

The transmission does not have to come out of the car to do as Doug suggested, but the drive shaft has to come out and the tail shaft housing has to come off. As well as oil pan and valve body. It would be nice to have a hoist to do this work on.

 

[1963JAM]

The transmission does not have to come out of the car to do as Doug suggested, but the drive shaft has to come out and the tail shaft housing has to come off. As well as oil pan and valve body. It would be nice to have a hoist to do this work on.

No hoist. On my back with car on ramps.

 

[zyzzyx]

I just got this OEM gasket for my trans pan. Wish me luck!

 

[Dave6T4]

I just got this OEM gasket for my trans pan. Wish me luck!View attachment 1438130View attachment 1438131

Yep! That's the good one.

 

[1KoolBee]

That gasket should work well. I gave up on torquing 727 pan long ago, especially on cork. I just “hand tighten” while gripping the head of a flex ratchet or nut driver only. Also, if all else fails, check out the neutral safety switch. The Bakelite can shrink on the 68 and earlier ones and cause an aggravating leak. Fought a mysterious leak on my bee for years and it turned out to be that stinkin’ switch.

 

[fj5gtx]

I watched a youtuber mig a bolt onto that pin and pull it out enough to replace the o-ring. He did unhook the tailshaft housing bearing and I think he rotated the housing out of the way.

I always used the flat rubber gasket with an inch-lb torque wrench - after making the pan flat with a body hammer.

 

[1963JAM]

I just got this OEM gasket for my trans pan. Wish me luck!View attachment 1438130View attachment 1438131

What is the torque spec on that style gasket? Do the original trans pan bolts work or go longer, and how much longer?

 

[Lefty71]

I think the actual spec is only like 12#.... Hard to use a wrench on something that light.... This is why i said use the locktite to build a base...you'll barely have to "torque" them but they wont back out. If you see gasket bulging like before...it's too tight.

 

[fj5gtx]

I always used an in/lb beam type torque wrench, probably about 150 in/lbs. If the pan was flat and gasket surface clean, it sealed up nice.