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Leaks

dragrazor

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Anyone have a World 572RB with 572-13 heads? this is my first aluminum on aluminum. Torqued all fasteners as specified with accurate torque tools. Had leaks at various areas between VCs and head and oil pan between block and it. Both have studs. Used quality gaskets and checked the rails of VCs and oil pan for flatness before installing. I tightened again, several lost their torque much more than any past builds(but never aluminum on aluminum) so I need suggestions. Any tips or tricks from experienced will be greatly appreciated experienced. thanks to all considering and reading :)
 
I have no direct experience, but for valve covers and oil pan, would locktight be worth a try?
 
We need MORE information to access the situation:

1) Were heads & block new?
2) What tools were used (Brand/Type(analog/digital))?
3) What type of gaskets used (brand/material)?
4) What hardware was used and was it new (brand/type)?
5) Was proper tightening procedure used?
6) Were proper lubricants used on fasteners?
7) Were proper surface conditions adhered to for gasket installation?

Getting answers to these questions would help identify any problems that might exist causing the leaks.
 
So for clarification, you have aluminum VCs, and aluminum oil pan.
 
We need MORE information to access the situation:

1) Were heads & block new?
2) What tools were used (Brand/Type(analog/digital))?
3) What type of gaskets used (brand/material)?
4) What hardware was used and was it new (brand/type)?
5) Was proper tightening procedure used?
6) Were proper lubricants used on fasteners?
7) Were proper surface conditions adhered to for gasket installation?

Getting answers to these questions would help identify any problems that might exist causing the leaks.
in questions order 1 No 2 Snap-on and Craftsman 3 silicone steel laminate Fel-pro 4 arp&moroso 5 yes, per diagrams found 6 yes suggested 7 from factory surfaces. just to be clear not first engine rebuild, am 75, but absolutely is my first Aluminum on aluminum...............thanks for suggestions
 
So for clarification, you have aluminum VCs, and aluminum oil pan.
yes, aluminum VCs and oil pan that has a flat flange not recessed opening thanks for asking, got any tips or tricks ??
 
I have no direct experience, but for valve covers and oil pan, would locktight be worth a try?
have to remove VCs to adjust valves on oil pan unsure, will think on it thanks so much
 
yes, aluminum VCs and oil pan that has a flat flange not recessed opening thanks for asking, got any tips or tricks ??
Actually, I don’t. Kinda why I asked. Everything I work on has stamped steel VC and oil pans and suspect that makes a difference
 
Indy valve covers?
 
Ultra grey on the oil pan. Make sure to use a gasket. Otherwise you'll have a hell of a time removing it later. Once it drys you could take the nuts off the studs and wouldn't leak. Indy heads are pretty flat on the VC sealing surface. Wyth Indy cover I use Suoerformace .060" thick gaskets dry. They last about 3-4 years with lash checks evry 20-25 passes.
Doug
 
Actually, I don’t. Kinda why I asked. Everything I work on has stamped steel VC and oil pans and suspect that makes a difference
understand, me too till now :) thanks
Ultra grey on the oil pan. Make sure to use a gasket. Otherwise you'll have a hell of a time removing it later. Once it drys you could take the nuts off the studs and wouldn't leak. Indy heads are pretty flat on the VC sealing surface. Wyth Indy cover I use Suoerformace .060" thick gaskets dry. They last about 3-4 years with lash checks evry 20-25 passes.
Doug
Thanks, have used that on jet skis often. Non-Indy covers, exact look, but no advertising for them.
 
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