Let’s talk fuseable links. I need schooled.
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diesel_lv
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External solid state regulator. Run it straight to battery n then pull from battery. Won't look factory, but will protect circuits.
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Bear in mind that the vehicle's voltage regulator regardless of the number of connecting wires, has NOTHING TO DO WITH FUSABLE LINK, THE CIRCUITS THE LINK PROTECTS. THE SOLE FUNCTION of the voltage regulator is to regulate the rotating field voltage of the alternator. This, in turn regulates the output voltage and current of the alternator. The maximum amperage produced by the alternator is controlled by design of the stator windings (number of turns of wire per phase and the wire size) and the capacity of the diodes of the alternator. Basically the IMPEDANCE, or AC resistance, of the stator windings is the determining factor. The fusable link(s) protect the individual circuits connected to the power source. The power source is the battery and/or alternator or both combined. What you choose to connect to the power source albeit cooling fans, EFI system and its supporting components, auxiliary lighting or sound systems is up to the owner to make that determine. Just my opinion of course....
BOB RENTON
I mentioned before that my sniper had my volt lights flashing yellow when I my fans kicked on incorporating a hard pull or charging problem. Fastman made me shut my car off and I couldn’t continue until I figured the problem out. So that’s when I called Tuff Stuff and they sent me a solid state upgraded #7545 that fixed my charging problem. Just say if I had continued running the car like that with the hard pull couldn’t it eventually smoked the fusible link also?
4406bbl
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Not with a 4 gauge wire from alternator to battery. Might smoke the battery....unless somehow you have a bad connection in the 4gauge and the black 10 gauge is still hooked to the alternator, that would smoke the fusible in a flash when the fans kicked on.
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Before I would accept their premise of a "heavy duty" regulator, i would want to know what makes their unit special or heavy duty. The Mopar regulator shown as the middle of the pix array controls the alternators field voltage by switching the rotors field voltage to ground via a internal transistor, thereby controling the alternator output both voltage and current. There is an internal temperature compensated voltage divider network that is calibrated to allow for a higher nominal voltage and a faster response time. The longer the internal transistor is turned on (the circuit is a current sinking design that provides smooth pulse-less, seamless output), at a higher reference control voltage, allowing the connected alternator to respond faster to a changing load. The alternator's rotating field consumes the same voltage and current, it just stays on longer and faster to yield higher power output. Thd term Heavy duty means nothing....if you need additional information please PM me.......
BOB RENTON
I can’t honestly say that I don’t have that hooked up. I will have to check when I get back home this weekend. I can see that wire goes back to the ammeter and ties in to the AC vacuum switch in which I have neither. Thank you for that tip!
Normally the battery is connected to the alternator through the ammeter gauge in your dash. The power loads from your car sits on the alternator side of the ammeter gauge. When the alternator is charging your battery, the gauge is therefore able to show this. Likewise, if the power loads are consuming more power than the alternator can provide, the battery will supplement, and then the gauge will show that the battery is discharging.
You said you disconnected the ammeter gauge and hooked the two wires together. BUT, you ALSO added a new cable from the alternator to the battery. So if I am understanding your mods correctly, you now have two somewhat parallel paths that electricity can take, one is your heavy 4 gauge wire, but the other is through your stock wiring. It is still there...
You said you disconnected the ammeter gauge and hooked the two wires together. BUT, you ALSO added a new cable from the alternator to the battery. So if I am understanding your mods correctly, you now have two somewhat parallel paths that electricity can take, one is your heavy 4 gauge wire, but the other is through your stock wiring. It is still there...
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I have added Vintage Air and a power driver's seat to my otherwise basically stock 1964 Polara. I have upgraded the alternator to a 100 amp. 2-wire PowerMaster with firewall mounted electronic regulator. I have decided to retain the stock ammeter. After reading a LOT of electrical posts, I have replaced the stock 12 ga. black alternator wire with a 8 ga wire through a grommetted hole in the firewall to the main harness and ammeter, avoiding the factory connector block. I have run a 8 ga. red wire directly from the battery positive post to the stud on the starter relay. I eliminated the 12 ga. red charge wire that ran from the stud to the starter/positive cable. I completed the circuit to the ammeter with a 8 ga. red wire also run through a grommetted hole in the firewall, rather than the block. I have protected this circuit with a 12 ga. fusible link. I have also installed an accessory voltage gauge at the bottom of the dash. After reading some of these latest posts, should I also protect the 8 ga. black wire circuit with a 12 ga. fusible link?
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This is what I have always read, If you connect the two wires together inside the car (under the dash) you are essentially doubling the gauge of the positive feed wire to the dash - by using both wires to carry the current. That is already a big help over the factory setup and it completes the circuit. Otherwise if you didn’t complete it im assuming you wouldn’t have any lights and by looking at the schematic for my car it looks to be correct. As far as the 4 gauge wire from the alternator directly to the battery, you are completing that path of the new charging circuit. It’s kind of like a 1 wire alt set up I guess. I do away with black wire on the alt as 4406 said and of course the other 2 are for my external voltage regulator. I’m definitely not an electric guy but this is the way I understand it and still learning and looking for help.
4406bbl
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Ok with your adding the bypass you did double the load carrying capacity as now the black is essentially hooked to the battery.... BUT if the black wire is unprotected, and tied to the red wire at the ammeter connection, it will smoke the fuse link if an overload occurs. One other issue you have now is your 130 amp fuse will not protect that black wire, it will smoke it during an overload or short. With all of your heavy loads off of the factory wiring you have no need for 2 feeds to the stock loom. Remember the ammeter is just like a piece of 10 gauge wire in stock form, the problem for you comes from the current potential the 4 gauge can provide vs what the stock 10 gauge can handle. It is best to have one feed protection, aka fuse or fuse link for your factory loom. Multiple feeds hooked together get you into way to much current carrying capacity and a fire. Hard to understand sometimes but think like this, if you have multiple feeds from the source, battery in this case the protection must be sized for the smallest wire, 10 gauge in this case.
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Ok I’ll do exactly that. The guy from stuff told me to get that 4 gauge wire off of that 130 amp fuse cause like you said it will smoke it and just hook it up straight to the battery post with no breakers, fuses or anything. Since the factory wiring is 12 gauge should I just stick with the 16 gauge fuse link on the firewall or should I move up one size to 14?
4406bbl
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Stick to 16, the alternator will only blow that 130 amp fuse if you have a big load or short. Newer cars use the plug fuses, rated at about 150-160 amps with your alternator/wire sizing. He may tell you to hook directly to the battery, he is not really wrong or right, factory built cars use both setups, fuse links can burn up and the serviceability is way easier with a plug fuse. I would like protection there, but sometimes it will blow them. Maybe try it and and see, a 150 amp in that style may be needed.
Ok, thanks again for the help!!!
4406bbl
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I should add this, do not try a circuit breaker there, it became a big deal on the diesel forums to use them. With a 130 amp alternator on a Dodge diesel a 150 circuit breaker pops every ti.e the grid heater kicks on, a 200amp still kicks out. That is why factory stuff skips it on the alternator to battery wire, or uses slow blow fuse or fuse links....but they also have engineering department, and properly run the wire with proper protection and it is tested 3 ways to sunday. In the end everything hooked up with one feed, every feed properly fused, or fuse linked, and your 4 gauge properly run for safety and you have a safe system.
Appreciate it again!
Nacho-RT74
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Anything you would like to add?I allmost cry of happines with this reply!
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