Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
My street car ran 9.98 at 139.9 because we had to do it all on the back half. 4250# and 3.73 gears.
Let's talk about MPH & ET
- Thread starter SUPERSTOCKRACER
- Start date
My street car ran 9.98 at 139.9 because we had to do it all on the back half. 4250# and 3.73 gears.
SUPERSTOCKRACER
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1.64-60 ft
4.12-330
6/34-110.6 1/8
8.28-1000 ft
9.95 @ 134.28
But, how bout a 13.50 318 powered Demon? Can't find the time slip right now but it cut a 2.2 60 and ran 13.51 @ 102 and change. Most that had similar dials were surprised to see it passing them by just before the stripe lol
4.12-330
6/34-110.6 1/8
8.28-1000 ft
9.95 @ 134.28
But, how bout a 13.50 318 powered Demon? Can't find the time slip right now but it cut a 2.2 60 and ran 13.51 @ 102 and change. Most that had similar dials were surprised to see it passing them by just before the stripe lol
SUPERSTOCKRACER
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Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
I don't have that run, but here's the first run that night. We had too much nitrous in down low and spun on the 60'. These are all 275 drag radial runs. Not slicks.
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Here's an 1/8mile pass. Same setup.
- - - Updated - - -
What is it that you are after here? Are you trying to optimize your combo?
SUPERSTOCKRACER
Well-Known Member
I don't have that run, but here's the first run that night. We had too much nitrous in down low and spun on the 60'. These are all 275 drag radial runs. Not slicks.
- - - Updated - - -
Here's an 1/8mile pass. Same setup.
- - - Updated - - -
What is it that you are after here? Are you trying to optimize your combo?
I'm trying to find a solid .15 and wondering if it's in my 1/8th mile or in the last 1/8th mile of the run.
One of my cars like the black dodge is lazy the line but then comes on like gang busters right at the 1/8th mile.I figured what was wrong now with this car. It was in my Prosystems SV1's which I have now corrected and just waiting to get out to test.
The light blue dodge is excellant off the hit and 60 foots insane but comes up a bit short in the 1/8th and my MPH is off some since the rebuild. Only thing I did differently was raise the ladder bar up 1 hole to get it to hit the tire harder but I think that's where my 1/8th mile ET is off.
I might be over reacting but I miss my 5.73 1/8th mile in the light blue dodge now it's 5.76-5.77
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Hemirunner
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I don't bracket race anymore, but we tracked any and all changes by date so we could reference timeslips before and after for just these situations. Now we're doing heads up, small tire, street car crap and it's hard to be consistent enough to track changes, lol.
SUPERSTOCKRACER
Well-Known Member
I know what you're talking about. I just started the heads up racing myself. My hoosiers 29.5 slicks are shot. Sidewalls are done. I know my 60 foots have suffered at the last race and my high speed air bleeds are too large causing a lean condition.
Honestly, I really am having fun figuring out the different combos. Funny thing is we are never satisfied and always want to go faster.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
I have enough trouble keeping on top of one car's program, I can't imagine having all the ones you do! I enjoy the big cube hemi stuff. It's been fun. I do have a second car going together and it's going to be much lighter. The heavy ones are so hard on parts. Good luck this year.
With the Drag Radials we've had tremendous success after installing Afco doubles modified by Mark Menscer. In our case they were plenty consistent to bracket race with. low 1.40/60 9.80@138. Just started the tuning curve. We need to tighten up the rebound as it's hitting the tire way to hard. This is with the old style M/T's, not the pro's. 1.30's are with-in easy reach. A split a trans seal cut the last test session short.
https://www.facebook.com/theshocknerd
Doug
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
I'm running Strange double adjustables on all 4 corners. We had good luck with them. Any DA is a big improvement over the Rancho type garbage that so often gets recommended with the CalTracs. I know a lot of the high hp guys run the Menser stuff. I might try it on the new car if we get near the 2000hp mark. If we really wanted to bracket race, I'd go to a much deeper rear gear and take out 1,000 lbs of weight. It's a street car that we really drive on the street. Once the new car is close to being done, it's going back to street duty only. It was much more fun in that configuration.
He drives the grand kids around in this, to work, my wife's even driven it around. Exactly the same race trim/street trim. It's way faster than it needs to be on the street.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycbzYW7orWk
Doug
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycbzYW7orWk
Doug
HEMI-ITIS
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Could you explain what a snaggletooth Cpusin is??
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glassman
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We were running 9.80's, 137 mph with a .030 over Hemi, no head work , 513 gear, s/s springs and weighing 3545 which is 10 pounds under weight for ss/da. Low tek car with tight budget and think what we could do with more cubic inches like some of the guys here on this thread.
Mike Gaines
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Ihad an engine builder tell me that the reason some cars go different ET's is this: (for example)
On one pass the car goes 12.00 ET at 112MPH
Next pass the car goes 11.85 ET but same 112MPH
Next pass the car goes 11.81 but same 112MPH
It is explained to me that the lower et runs had better traction (and 60') but MPH was the same because the car hit top horsepower at the 1000 foot mark and just wouldnt go any faster than 112MPH.
This makes a whole lot of sense to me about MPH's being the same but ET's being different for the same car at the same track.
Nothing to do with an answer to your question...I just thought it was interesting and kinda in the same vein as your thread.
On one pass the car goes 12.00 ET at 112MPH
Next pass the car goes 11.85 ET but same 112MPH
Next pass the car goes 11.81 but same 112MPH
It is explained to me that the lower et runs had better traction (and 60') but MPH was the same because the car hit top horsepower at the 1000 foot mark and just wouldnt go any faster than 112MPH.
This makes a whole lot of sense to me about MPH's being the same but ET's being different for the same car at the same track.
Nothing to do with an answer to your question...I just thought it was interesting and kinda in the same vein as your thread.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Hmmmm.... switch to 3.73 gears, drag radials, add 700lbs and get back to me, lol......
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It's really just a given amount of power accelerating a given mass in a set distance. The time it takes is affected by a bunch of factors including traction, gear ratios, tire sizes, suspensions, etc. Comparing dissimilar setups to yours and wondering why they don't run the same ET can drive you bonkers.
383man
Well-Known Member
The hook can also make a difference even in mph. As mph usually is an indication of hp but last year I ran 10.85 and 10.87 in time runs at 123.42 and 124.03. I dailed 10.84 and in the first round I spun as I felt it spin on launch and I ran 10.89 @ 124.44. I won anyway as I had a better lite then the other car. Which I knew that sometimes when the car spins it will mph more which I did as in the next round it hooked good and ran 10.85 @ 123.38. But I went red with a -.044 lite but you can see on good hook the mph was a tad less then when I spun. Seems when a car spins it will get the tire speed up more I guess as many times when a car spins on the line it will mph a tad better. Ron
ozymaxwedge
Well-Known Member
Same car same day.
ozymaxwedge
Well-Known Member
Sorry, that first pass was a off the pedal after half track and the second was a stuff up 2nd gear launch but check out the difference in the 660' time, my 10.60 could have been a 10.1 or .2 ?
I've found this formula to be very close. 1/8 x 1.57 = 1/4 ET 6.53 x 1.57 = 10.2521
Doug
Doug
