Videos are not working for me
Long cranking time to start
- Thread starter Mopewbie
- Start date
YY1
Well-Known Member
Did not read the entire thread but....
My 318 almost always starts by the third crank (about the count of three, or 3 seconds).
I set the choke/high idle with one push.
That's sometimes after a couple or a few months with 89/90 octane non-ethanol.
Occasionally it takes a few more seconds.
Every now and then it won't start after about 20 seconds, then I have to push the pedal to the floor and hold it.
If that happens it usually runs rough at first and I have to hold it at high idle manually for a while.
I'd advise the OP to look inside the carb while setting the choke/high idle with his hand.
If you see the pump shot- there's a course of action.
If you don't- there's another.
My 318 almost always starts by the third crank (about the count of three, or 3 seconds).
I set the choke/high idle with one push.
That's sometimes after a couple or a few months with 89/90 octane non-ethanol.
Occasionally it takes a few more seconds.
Every now and then it won't start after about 20 seconds, then I have to push the pedal to the floor and hold it.
If that happens it usually runs rough at first and I have to hold it at high idle manually for a while.
I'd advise the OP to look inside the carb while setting the choke/high idle with his hand.
If you see the pump shot- there's a course of action.
If you don't- there's another.
Mopewbie
Well-Known Member
I'll post the links without hyperlink, hope that helps.
Video1:
video 2:
Ok, didn't work... I'll try again, just remove the space between the "https"
Video1
ht tps://youtu.be/ZCukppehpnw?si=oKqdpXCHNt8TweH0
Video2
ht tps://youtu.be/HD6I0YgFYsM?si=q2CMpqPA9ZBAZFZc
steve340
Well-Known Member
The reason it starts OK when hot is the required energy from the ignition system is a lot less to start a warm engine as opposed to dead cold engine.
The starter motor for instance draws a lot more energy from the battery to spin over a cold engine - leaving less energy available from the battery to operate the ignition.
This may be why it fires momentarily as you stop cranking - the ignition for an instant gets more power from the battery.
The starter motor for instance draws a lot more energy from the battery to spin over a cold engine - leaving less energy available from the battery to operate the ignition.
This may be why it fires momentarily as you stop cranking - the ignition for an instant gets more power from the battery.
Additionally with the cylinders and intake warm the fuel is more atomized.
Much easier to make it go BANG!
Check the ballast resistor and pull the bulkhead connector apart and inspect for burnt/corroded connections.
Might as well clean them all while it's apart.
The ignition switch in the GTX had high resistance in the run position, it still ran but had a high rpm misfire and an overcharging condition. After replacing the switch I disassembled the old one and found the lube inside was like tar. I found the same thing when my hazard light switch was acting up. I bet the OP’s switch is similarly messed up.
Mopewbie
Well-Known Member
Ok, I measured and swapped the "looks new" ballast for an old one I had and it seems that the issue is solved. I'll try tomorrow or Saturday with the car dead cold and I'll post the result!
thank you all so far.
thank you all so far.
Mopewbie
Well-Known Member
Sorry it took me so long but It was a mixture of bad weather, other commitments, etc.
Today I had the pleasure to try it after replacing ballast and adjusting choke plate.
Here's the result:
Today I had the pleasure to try it after replacing ballast and adjusting choke plate.
Here's the result:
Similar threads
