Looking to rewire 70 Charger

[THE STIG]

Looking to rewire my 70 Charger, I was going to do this a while ago but the shop I was going to have do it had some land lord issues and they are no longer in business but he dude told me to get the Painless harness and he would take care of everything. The problem I have with the Painless harness is that it is "universal" to all B bodies and there are no wires to run to the headlight cover motor or the turn signals in the hood. So I would appreciate any insight on wiring harness any one may wish to give, I may or may not attempt this myself but I'm leaning towards NOT but I've already had one other shop tell me they weren't interested in doing it since they would have to splice in the wires for the headlight motor and hood signals.

 

[hunt2elk]

Go with the M&H harness' that Year One sells. Perfect plug and play. Wait for one of their 30% off sales before ordering though.

 

[Car Nut]

Go with the M&H harness' that Year One sells. Perfect plug and play. Wait for one of their 30% off sales before ordering though.

What he said.

 

[idrivemopar]

What he said.

If its a stock rewire, X3 on the M&H stuff.

 

[dburnett6263]

If its a stock rewire, X3 on the M&H stuff.

Went with a Ron Frances B Body kit for my 68 RR. Again nice kit but very generic. X4 on the M&H if stock. Only other coment might be go with a volt meter instead of ammeter. Maps and some other sites have info on that.

 

[THE STIG]

"Stock" isn't really an issue not going for all original or anything like that I just want everything to work, and I was going to add a CD player after it's all in if that makes a difference

 

[dburnett6263]

Don't know the history of your current wiring but if it's 1970 stock there's a very good chance your firewall bulkhead connector is burnt up because all current comes / goes through it, to the ammeter then to all other points. over time the connectors heat up and a melt down begins. ( that's why I mentioned voltmeter earlier) If your current wiring is intact, good shape, and hasn't been hacked, cut, spliced, and you just want stuff to work, check that bulkhead connector first this can cause all kinds of gremlins. Again I believe MAPS and a few other sites (which I forget, maybe some of the other FBBO folks can jog my memory) have some very nice write ups and pics on bulkhead repair.
As far as adding a CD player, you should already have ign. / radio power there, maybe a ground wire too. Will just need to add fused battery power as all current radio's / players require this for their memory. And of course speaker wiring.
I would also suggest getting a good schematic. They are on Ebay for about 20 bucks.
If I were going to do my 68 RR again I'd buy the $250 American Autowire universal kit, use the schematic, and have at it.

 

[THE STIG]

"If your current wiring is intact, good shape, and hasn't been hacked, cut, spliced" It's not completely intact or in good shape and it has been hacked, cut, and spliced and according to my wiring diagram several wires that should be blue, green, black etc. have all been replaced with red ones and there's a bunch of cut wires under the dash that's why I figured to just replace the entire harness, I will check the bulkhead connector if I can find it.

 

[dburnett6263]

If its like my RR it's beside the master cyclinder. To the left if your standing in front of the car.