Lucas tb zinc additive

[prplcar]

Any one know if the Lucas zinc additive used with conventional oil is safe to use. I have been using Joe Gibbs high zinc oil, but money is tight and I need to change the oil. Pennzoil and the Lucas additive are both on sale at the local parts store and would save me about $35. Just wondering if this would cost me hundreds down the road with a messed up cam. I could just wait another month to drive the car but our season is only 4 months if we are lucky.

 

[mikeyfrano]

I use ROTELLA it already has the zinc in it. a lot of racers that I know use it and they recommened I to me. Its cheap and already has the zinc in it

 

[old_skool]

Most of your Diesel oils don't have all the crap friction modifiers the new oils have, and have a lot more zinc in them, read the label, some actually don't have as much zinc, but most do. I use these oils in all my old motorcycle builds.

 

[bobtile]

From what I understand, the diesel oils contain high detergent levels which actually counteract the zinc content. My thought would be to use the Gibbs or equivalent . It costs more but you know it works. I have a friend that used the Rotella in his 64 427 Galaxie 500 and wiped his cam. He is now rebuilding his entire engine.

 

[monaco66coupe]

Rotella diesel doesn't have as high a detergent level as conventional oils, and does have about 1000 ppm zinc, so I don't see detergent working against zinc. Now I also add Lucas zinc additive with the rotella, as 8 ounces adds about 5,000 to five quarts of conventional oil. So I use Rotella diesel, and 4 ounces of Zinc in addition for insurance. That puts the ppm way over 2500-3000 ppm. I have this combo in all my old engines, and my 69' 383 has been that way for four years now.
The bottle # is 10036 Lucas Zinc additive. I get a case of 12 from the factory for about 100 bucks. That gets me through 24 oil changes. Mobil is also good diesel oil, and there are others. Just stay away from conventional oils at all cost.

 

[68GTX440]

What is everyone's opinions on castrol tection for diesels?

 

[Dennis H]

Save money somewhere else. Oil is too important. I use Amsoil Signature 10-40 w/high Zinc in it. Not cheap. That's under $50 for an annual oil change.

 

[sleepar]

The vintage oil and gas all the way.. brad Penn or amsol or the additives as long as it's in there..... it's expensive up front but saves on parts later. It's $12-18 a gallon for the real gas vintage lead 108 octane Sunoco at special dealers.
I'm tired of mixing gas and doctor'ing oil the valveoline for off road use only is the oil..... after a tank of 108 you will never want to put the other crap in in after that. For $100 a gallon it's worth it sometimes.....

 

[brasil]

...Brad Penn Amsoil or Royal Purple that´s what I would use.. ( or use )
Never was a friend of Mixing Stuff into the oil...because you never know if its enough...or not... or ...
5 quarts of a real good oil is the cheapest insurance against a wiped cam... or so..

Greetings Jurgen

 

[Rocketman]

Royal Purple for me and I have converted a few Mobile 1 and Brad Penn users.

 

[Dennis H]

Amsoil and Mobil 1 are the only true synthetics.

 

[monaco66coupe]

I can't recommend a synthetic in an old mopar. I did that, and I lost compression, and the engine ran like there was NO compression. this was a new rebuilt engine. I dropped the oil, and replaced it with diesel oil and lucas, within one minute the engine ran like a million bucks. Sorry, nobody I know uses synthetic in an old dodge engine. Many a machinist I spoke to said the rings don't seat properly, And even later lubrication Issues do show up. maybe 1,000 miles, 2,000. but it does show up. Just my experience.

 

[Dennis H]

10-40 synthetic was recommended by the builder of the 440, Mopar Engines West.

AFTER a short break in with Valvoline conventional 10-40. Used Amsoil ever since, over 35 or so thousand miles. No measurable consumption. Exception, 1856 miles including drag racing used 1 quart.

 

[monaco66coupe]

I don't break old Mopar engines in with synthetic, as I dont' feel the rings can seat properly. My experience with the 383 was that the tolerances in the 69' engine were much looser, which contributed to the poor running.(piston to skirt clearance, bearings,etc) The side symptom was I had an oil leak behind the oil pump that I couldn't stop, it was incessant! Once I went to Rotella Diesel with zinc, the oil pump quit leaking, and my oil pressure stabilized at 55 psi, the lifters turned silent, and it pulls aggressively from 40-110 mph. (I left the 2:76 ratio in the car)\It has been seven years, and around 5,000 miles. The engine only runs better and better as the miles get put on. Others may have a different view, but I had the same experience with my 440, and 340 dart. I finally got it. Now, some here like Royal blue, so my next engine, another 340 will get that after the break-in period. As long as it has the features similar to the 60's oils and Zinc above 2,000ppm, I will try it.

 

[twinscrew698]

I put this in mine this year.Price not bad either.
Has plenty of zinc for the motor.

Lucas Hot Rod and Classic Car Motor Oil
http://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/luc-10683-1

 

[HT413]

Rotella T triple protection has all the zinc, phosphorus and molybdenum your engine craves. Part of a complete breakfast.