superbee_68
Well-Known Member
I brought up the swap in another thread but figured there was enough information to create a thread just about the swap.
Here is all the info I have found so far on a magnum engine swap using the 518/46re transmission:
First of all, what I plan to purchase for this swap is a 1995 318, 5.2 L, mpfi engine with the matching 518 transmission. The engine and transmission will be coming out of a daily driver van that was totaled last week and only had 42,000 miles on it. Since it is a 1995 van, the pcm will use older OBDI communication. Also, being a 1995, the 518 transmission will have the 3 pin connector, which means it has over drive and a lock-up converter. If the transmission was older, it would only have a 2 pin connector with over drive only and no lock-up on the converter. If the transmission was newer and from an ODBII vehicle, it would be the computer controlled transmission and require a pcm to shift.
For those only interested in swapping in a 518/46re and not interested in running a factory style pcm and efi, as long as the transmission is 1995 or older, it can be controlled to shift using solenoids and a vacuum switch from PATC. They also have more advanced systems now that are tune-able. Be sure to get the correct flex plate and converter to accommodate the balance style of the engine in the car, and lockup vs. non-lockup depending on year.
For those only interested in swapping in a magnum engine and leaving a 904/727, you must ensure you have the proper converter and flex plate combo to accommodate the externally balanced magnum engine. I will not go over which flex plate or converter to get because every car started with different parts and is vehicle specific.
OBDI vs. OBDII- The earlier system, OBDI, is simpler and works for stock engine applications. For my case, since I am getting the entire engine, transmission, wiring harness, and pcm, it makes sense for me to keep the OBDI to keep cost down for the initial swap. For those looking for run a factory style pcm and want to add performance parts, it is best to buy an OBDII motor, or change the harness and computer to OBDII. The upgrade can be done to an original OBI engine but requires a new harness, pcm, and changing a few sensors. OBDII computer must be flashed before they will work in an older car, OBI computers do not. For those looking for big power, forced induction, or big cams, it is best to ditch the factory pcm and fuel injection and go after market. There are many options here. I plan to leave the engine stock, for now, so I will run the OBDI pcm.
Wiring Harness- The factory harness can be modified to work but is not a job for the average mechanic. A simpler solution is to buy a hot rod style harness that only has a few wires to hook up. I plan to swap in the factory harness with fuse block from the van. I like complicated projects like this and saving money. I probably should just order the hotrod style harness...
Lockup vs non-lockup transmission- obviously lower rpm on the highway is achieved with a lockup converter style 518. There are countless arguments over strength and reliability. I would go with whatever is available and less expensive. For cars with big power, do your research to see if the 518 will last behind your engine. The yoke might need to be changed on the drive shaft to go in the 518.
Magnum vs LA- There is a website called magnum swap .com that talks about the similarities and differences between the two. Find this website for more details. In summary, the magnum engine will bolt in with relatively few modifications and many parts will swap between the two engines. A magnum engine can be disguised as a LA with the right combination of parts. The magnum is a hydraulic roller motor and very inexpensive from junkyards but suffers from a poor factory cylinder head that leads to cracking between the valves. Magnum engines are a great alternative to rebuilding a tired 318 when budget is in mind. I am going the magnum route because I can get a low mileage fuel injected motor with an over drive transmission for less than the cost of adding fuel injection to my stock LA. Kind of a no brainer in my opinion.
5.2 vs 5.9- Personal preference here. I am going with whats available and cheap since I am not after big power.
Fuel delivery- Probably the most complicated part. There are fuel tanks available with in-tank pumps for lots of money. The factory tank can be modified with the right amount of ingenuity. Or a fuel pump can be mounted on the frame rail. Be sure to make sure the pump puts out the right pressure, and/or a filter regulator combo is used. Circulating the fuel with a return keeps the pump cool and increases life span. Do what fits your budget and skill level. I plan to modify the tank to accept the fuel pump from the Vans fuel tank. We will see how this turns out.
Up front fitment issues I know are coming- The drive shaft will need to be cut and the cross-member will need to be custom to accept the 518. The tunnel will probably need massaging to get the drive-line angles correct to prevent vibrations. I may have to go to electric fans to run the magnum serpentine belt accessory drive. To put the motor in the car, I will have to swap to a car LA 360 oil pan and pickup. The 518 needs a big transmission cooler to keep it alive so I plan to bi-pass the factory radiator and use a large aftermarket cooler. There will be more issues and I will keep track of things and share as the swap goes along and after it is complete.
Why not a 5.7 hemi?- Many of you are saying why wouldn't you just do a 5.7 hemi. I even have an late model hemi sitting in my shop that has 20,000 miles on it. It comes down to cost. The wiring harness alone is $1,000 for the hemi swap and is required. Add in radiator, 545rfe transmission, a computer, motor mounts, 6.1 intake, cable operated throttle body, speedo converter, lower pressure power steering pump, oil pan and pickup, and all the mods required to stuff in the motor, it takes a lot of coin to do it right. The average guy spends $4,000-$6,000 in a modern hemi swap. Yes, some of you have done it cheaper, but not every gets an amazing deal or builds everything from scratch. The other big issue is, you have to piece things together from both a truck and a car for a successful swap. So you can't just buy a wrecked car and use all the parts. I wouldn't dare try to put in the NAG1 transmission, can be done, but a lot involved. Lastly, is it really worth the extra effort for a 345 horsepower hemi? The magnum motor is capable of the same output with inexpensive cylinder heads and a new cam for a quarter of the cost. Yes you can mod a hemi but the parts are more expensive than the magnum motor. For me, putting a 5.7 hemi in a b-body is worth the effort in the right car. For a wagon, it makes more sense to do the cheaper magnum motor in my wallets opinion.
The end goal- a reliable engine with fuel injection, an overdrive transmission for highway cruising, relatively clean install on wiring and pcm using the vans harness, re-use factory radiator and column shift linkage, and keep total budget for the swap including engine and transmission under $1,500. So far for the engine, transmission, wiring, pcm, and fuel pump from the van, I will be spending $700 plus the fuel to go get it all. That leaves $800 to finish the swap, wish me luck. I'll post progress as it happens.
If you have any input or if I am totally wrong on something, chime in. I do not claim to know it all. I am merely sharing what I know from personal experience and reading countless articles and threads on the subject.
Here is all the info I have found so far on a magnum engine swap using the 518/46re transmission:
First of all, what I plan to purchase for this swap is a 1995 318, 5.2 L, mpfi engine with the matching 518 transmission. The engine and transmission will be coming out of a daily driver van that was totaled last week and only had 42,000 miles on it. Since it is a 1995 van, the pcm will use older OBDI communication. Also, being a 1995, the 518 transmission will have the 3 pin connector, which means it has over drive and a lock-up converter. If the transmission was older, it would only have a 2 pin connector with over drive only and no lock-up on the converter. If the transmission was newer and from an ODBII vehicle, it would be the computer controlled transmission and require a pcm to shift.
For those only interested in swapping in a 518/46re and not interested in running a factory style pcm and efi, as long as the transmission is 1995 or older, it can be controlled to shift using solenoids and a vacuum switch from PATC. They also have more advanced systems now that are tune-able. Be sure to get the correct flex plate and converter to accommodate the balance style of the engine in the car, and lockup vs. non-lockup depending on year.
For those only interested in swapping in a magnum engine and leaving a 904/727, you must ensure you have the proper converter and flex plate combo to accommodate the externally balanced magnum engine. I will not go over which flex plate or converter to get because every car started with different parts and is vehicle specific.
OBDI vs. OBDII- The earlier system, OBDI, is simpler and works for stock engine applications. For my case, since I am getting the entire engine, transmission, wiring harness, and pcm, it makes sense for me to keep the OBDI to keep cost down for the initial swap. For those looking for run a factory style pcm and want to add performance parts, it is best to buy an OBDII motor, or change the harness and computer to OBDII. The upgrade can be done to an original OBI engine but requires a new harness, pcm, and changing a few sensors. OBDII computer must be flashed before they will work in an older car, OBI computers do not. For those looking for big power, forced induction, or big cams, it is best to ditch the factory pcm and fuel injection and go after market. There are many options here. I plan to leave the engine stock, for now, so I will run the OBDI pcm.
Wiring Harness- The factory harness can be modified to work but is not a job for the average mechanic. A simpler solution is to buy a hot rod style harness that only has a few wires to hook up. I plan to swap in the factory harness with fuse block from the van. I like complicated projects like this and saving money. I probably should just order the hotrod style harness...
Lockup vs non-lockup transmission- obviously lower rpm on the highway is achieved with a lockup converter style 518. There are countless arguments over strength and reliability. I would go with whatever is available and less expensive. For cars with big power, do your research to see if the 518 will last behind your engine. The yoke might need to be changed on the drive shaft to go in the 518.
Magnum vs LA- There is a website called magnum swap .com that talks about the similarities and differences between the two. Find this website for more details. In summary, the magnum engine will bolt in with relatively few modifications and many parts will swap between the two engines. A magnum engine can be disguised as a LA with the right combination of parts. The magnum is a hydraulic roller motor and very inexpensive from junkyards but suffers from a poor factory cylinder head that leads to cracking between the valves. Magnum engines are a great alternative to rebuilding a tired 318 when budget is in mind. I am going the magnum route because I can get a low mileage fuel injected motor with an over drive transmission for less than the cost of adding fuel injection to my stock LA. Kind of a no brainer in my opinion.
5.2 vs 5.9- Personal preference here. I am going with whats available and cheap since I am not after big power.
Fuel delivery- Probably the most complicated part. There are fuel tanks available with in-tank pumps for lots of money. The factory tank can be modified with the right amount of ingenuity. Or a fuel pump can be mounted on the frame rail. Be sure to make sure the pump puts out the right pressure, and/or a filter regulator combo is used. Circulating the fuel with a return keeps the pump cool and increases life span. Do what fits your budget and skill level. I plan to modify the tank to accept the fuel pump from the Vans fuel tank. We will see how this turns out.
Up front fitment issues I know are coming- The drive shaft will need to be cut and the cross-member will need to be custom to accept the 518. The tunnel will probably need massaging to get the drive-line angles correct to prevent vibrations. I may have to go to electric fans to run the magnum serpentine belt accessory drive. To put the motor in the car, I will have to swap to a car LA 360 oil pan and pickup. The 518 needs a big transmission cooler to keep it alive so I plan to bi-pass the factory radiator and use a large aftermarket cooler. There will be more issues and I will keep track of things and share as the swap goes along and after it is complete.
Why not a 5.7 hemi?- Many of you are saying why wouldn't you just do a 5.7 hemi. I even have an late model hemi sitting in my shop that has 20,000 miles on it. It comes down to cost. The wiring harness alone is $1,000 for the hemi swap and is required. Add in radiator, 545rfe transmission, a computer, motor mounts, 6.1 intake, cable operated throttle body, speedo converter, lower pressure power steering pump, oil pan and pickup, and all the mods required to stuff in the motor, it takes a lot of coin to do it right. The average guy spends $4,000-$6,000 in a modern hemi swap. Yes, some of you have done it cheaper, but not every gets an amazing deal or builds everything from scratch. The other big issue is, you have to piece things together from both a truck and a car for a successful swap. So you can't just buy a wrecked car and use all the parts. I wouldn't dare try to put in the NAG1 transmission, can be done, but a lot involved. Lastly, is it really worth the extra effort for a 345 horsepower hemi? The magnum motor is capable of the same output with inexpensive cylinder heads and a new cam for a quarter of the cost. Yes you can mod a hemi but the parts are more expensive than the magnum motor. For me, putting a 5.7 hemi in a b-body is worth the effort in the right car. For a wagon, it makes more sense to do the cheaper magnum motor in my wallets opinion.
The end goal- a reliable engine with fuel injection, an overdrive transmission for highway cruising, relatively clean install on wiring and pcm using the vans harness, re-use factory radiator and column shift linkage, and keep total budget for the swap including engine and transmission under $1,500. So far for the engine, transmission, wiring, pcm, and fuel pump from the van, I will be spending $700 plus the fuel to go get it all. That leaves $800 to finish the swap, wish me luck. I'll post progress as it happens.
If you have any input or if I am totally wrong on something, chime in. I do not claim to know it all. I am merely sharing what I know from personal experience and reading countless articles and threads on the subject.