Making and installing enclosed trailer escape door.

[QOTHL]

Nice job. You can be proud of the way that project came out.

Thank you very much, I appreciate the compliment - it could be better but this works.

 

[dadsbee]

As noted I wish my door was a foot further forward (maybe only 6"), but it works well for both cars. I laid out the best I could, as to where both cars would sit in the trailer and rolled the dice on door placement. YES.. Three hinges!

 

[QOTHL]

As noted I wish my door was a foot further forward (maybe only 6"), but it works well for both cars. I laid out the best I could, as to where both cars would sit in the trailer and rolled the dice on door placement. YES.. Three hinges!
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Did you build and install the door?

 

[QOTHL]

Working on vinyl tile...
I used Plastex panels above the vinyl. Should be easy to clean.

View of 1 1/2" trim cut to fit over wheel well:

Next panel to do:

 

[dadsbee]

Did you build and install the door?

Nope, ordered it the way I wanted things, including the RV door on the other side..

 

[chtampa]

Wouldn't it be nice if there were automatic tie downs so you didn't have to get under the car?

 

[dadsbee]

I got mine as close as it's gonna get to that, I just have to reach beside and throw the loops over the tires and crank the ratchets down..

 

[chtampa]

I was watching one of the "Authentic" military movies and there were these discs that clamped Hummers on to pallets with parachutes. They just released somehow.

 

[malex]

As luck would have it I scooped a pair of used cargo doors which means h channel. Not new but more than enough to build my door. These doors are 32” X 69”.
I can already envision a left side door on my trailer for next racing season.

 

[QOTHL]

Nope, ordered it the way I wanted things, including the RV door on the other side..
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I didn't want to buy a door, in that respect I'm cheap. I saw how much prefab doors cost and decided to do it myself. Your door looks good!

 

[QOTHL]

I got mine as close as it's gonna get to that, I just have to reach beside and throw the loops over the tires and crank the ratchets down..
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THAT'S a really good idea! Wish I'd seen those photos before installing my tracks. The only thing I could do now would be to build up on either side but it would be worth it not to have to crawl under the car to get the middle hooks in. It would also help with clearing the car door.

 

[malex]

I didn't want to buy a door, in that respect I'm cheap. I saw how much prefab doors cost and decided to do it myself. Your door looks good!

—-
These doors were on the scrap heap. I got lucky.

 

[QOTHL]

I got mine as close as it's gonna get to that, I just have to reach beside and throw the loops over the tires and crank the ratchets down..
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How hard is it to get the wheel in that cradle? I'm thinking the best way to improve what I've got is to make a "bridge" over the two inner cleats so that I can drive over them and never have to unhook them again unless absolutely necessary. If I do it right, I can raise the height of the car so that I have more clearance for the side door.

 

[dadsbee]

 

[hemiman426]

there called barn doors,have one on mine and love it,makes getting in and out the car easy

 

[Hemirunner]

there called barn doors,have one on mine and love it,makes getting in and out the car easy

Just don’t leave one open or all the horses will escape and you’ll be down on power at the track! Haha

 

[70runner]

Nice work and thx for the detail. About to undertake similar project. Question about the framing. Pic6 shows a 1 ½" jack stud between the door frame and the added 2” king stud. Pic4 does not show the jack stud, yet the door frame appears flush. Can you elaborate on this?

It appears that you welded plates to the 1 ½" framing stud for the exterior latch fasteners?

 

[malex]

Today was planning day for the future left side 48 x 60 access door. Some pictures from today’s plan and any thoughts from viewers.

My trailer has vertical hat channels. 16” OC. They are 1.250 deep and 2.500 overall width X .065. My jack studs and header will be 1.250 X 1.250 X .100. Walls marked with the existing hat channels, and future jacks and header. Jack studs will be doubled up for ease of hinge and cam lock hinge install.

Close up picture of header and jacks. Not sure if I should double up the header or not, can’t see it being a problem, but. Thoughts anyone??
QOTHL mentioned about 3/4” gap between the frame and the door. So that would be 3/8” per side?

Masking tape and marking pen is the outside edge of the door opening. I position my car back as far as possible (rear door just closes with an inch to spare. By doing so the future door will be centred not bad at all over the fender. My measurements indicate the Plymouth door should have equal space both at the front and rear of the new access door opening.

Overall side view of door location once done. If I’m careful and measure properly the exterior trim should all line back up nicely. The top of the fender edge is 2” above the top of the fender, although there is still ample room to open the door on the Plymouth.

The 54” access door gives ample space, will be able to fully open the drivers door. Sure looking forward to the future door. That damn sedan window post sure makes it tough getting out, currently got to keep the car as far to the right as possible to get out - or else.

Getting this access door built this fall isn’t likely going to happen. Got a date with the doc in a couple weeks to fix a damn hernia......

 

[droptop]

I am wanting to do this to my trailer but it looks like the inner fenders of the trailer will interfere with the car door opening. Did you have to elevate the car any? Looks like I will have to raise the car height 6-8” for this to work on my United brand trailer.

 

[malex]

The bottom of my car door is higher than the finished door opening so I’m ok.
Some guys with low doors will elevate the left side of the car with 2 X 12’s or similar.