Making and installing enclosed trailer escape door.
- Thread starter QOTHL
- Start date
Decided to move the door ahead another 3”. Good enough for today, will get the rough out finished up tomorrow.
Using 1.250 X 1.250 X .100 Bottom section in place.
Decided to double up the vertical studs for additional support for the hinges. This is a fun project!
QOTHL
Well-Known Member
QOTHL
Well-Known Member
Hey man, you suck!
I was pretty much done with my door and wall trailer project until I saw your photo with the track arrangement. I can't move my tracks easily, they're bolted to steel plates under the trailer, it would be a major pain. What I am doing is raising the height over the tracks with steel tubing and channel with plate on top. I'm leaving an opening where the inner straps that you have to crawl under the car go so that I can do what you do or as they say in Africa: same same but different. My straps really need to be in line with the tires. A few times they weren't lined up and they came loose. I'll down load photos tomorrow of progress so far. This will raise the height of the car by at least two inches which gives enough clearance for the escape door for any car I have. So thanks!
QOTHL
Well-Known Member
Do yourself a favor and cut the bottom and sides first. Then cut the top and it will just fall right out.
The door project is going well. Taking my time and having fun with it. Some pics:
Door frame is finished. I used 1.250 square X .100 wall. There's a 1/2" of .125 flat that I need to cut off along the bottom 1.250 that I welded to the fender top. By cutting this off and lowering the outside fender I can lower the door sill.
Door is built and installed. 1 X 1 X .065 wall tubing used. I allowed 3/8" gap all around. I also fit all the hinges and cam lock on the inside first and did a trial run. The hinges will flip and mount on the outside. Will cut the outer skin last. Note that the vertical tubing is directly in line with the outer aluminum screw holes.
Plywood is going back on, just as it came off.
Plywood back on, minus the hole opening now. Outer aluminum still in tact.
Finish paneling is back in place. Needs a good wiping, maybe some paint if my markings don't come off.
Cam lock is installed. I decided to move the door ahead 3" after making my marks. Next up is to set the door in place and mount the front hinges to it. The holes are already drilled. Then will run a few screws back into the holes and secure the aluminum to the door tubing. Once all secure I'll cut the opening, from the inside. Bottom first, sides, top last. That way the aluminum will fit the chrome angle dead on when the job is complete.
The left side fender will be 1/2" lower, it will easily drop that much. I'd hate to pay a shop to do this alteration, it is time consuming.
Door frame is finished. I used 1.250 square X .100 wall. There's a 1/2" of .125 flat that I need to cut off along the bottom 1.250 that I welded to the fender top. By cutting this off and lowering the outside fender I can lower the door sill.
Door is built and installed. 1 X 1 X .065 wall tubing used. I allowed 3/8" gap all around. I also fit all the hinges and cam lock on the inside first and did a trial run. The hinges will flip and mount on the outside. Will cut the outer skin last. Note that the vertical tubing is directly in line with the outer aluminum screw holes.
Plywood is going back on, just as it came off.
Plywood back on, minus the hole opening now. Outer aluminum still in tact.
Finish paneling is back in place. Needs a good wiping, maybe some paint if my markings don't come off.
Cam lock is installed. I decided to move the door ahead 3" after making my marks. Next up is to set the door in place and mount the front hinges to it. The holes are already drilled. Then will run a few screws back into the holes and secure the aluminum to the door tubing. Once all secure I'll cut the opening, from the inside. Bottom first, sides, top last. That way the aluminum will fit the chrome angle dead on when the job is complete.
The left side fender will be 1/2" lower, it will easily drop that much. I'd hate to pay a shop to do this alteration, it is time consuming.
So this enclosed trailer door project is done. Going to be lots better every time I load or unload a car now.
Going to do some finishing touches at the hinge bolts still. Got some aluminum, will make it pretty. Door opening is 1.250” above the fender. Nice and low.
Game changer.
Access door addition complete.
Going to do some finishing touches at the hinge bolts still. Got some aluminum, will make it pretty. Door opening is 1.250” above the fender. Nice and low.
Game changer.
Access door addition complete.
QOTHL
Well-Known Member
That was fast! It took me a hell of a lot longer and I'm not really done because I'm not sure what I want to put on the inside panel. Looks really good!
QOTHL
Well-Known Member
After seeing dadsbees photos of his track arrangement I decided to make modifications to my trailer floor. Not as fancy as Malex but should work.
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When you’re finished that’s going to be worth the extra work. Keep at it.
QOTHL
Well-Known Member
That was smart drilling the hole for the hinges from the inside. My 2" post made that a pain in the ***. My mechanic friend thinks that the 2"x 1/8" and 1 1/2" steel tubing isn't going to be strong enough to make up for cutting out the ribs on the side. I think he's full of ****. I welded a 1/4" steel plate to the bottom of the frame and then welded the snot out of the tube to the plate. You can kind of see it in the bottom photo.
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I got a friend like that too, if you can lift it, it's not built strong enough. You're not going to have a problem. That 2" post is a heavy piece of metal welded to the frame. Your header is tied into it and with the stiffeners above your door welded to the header, nothing is going anywhere.
QOTHL
Well-Known Member
I watched a few videos on how to cut stall mat and can't recommend what they did with a circular saw. Very messy, a lot of rough edges. I used my Metabo cutter which cut it like butter - smelly rubber butter. I DO NOT recommend cutting indoors unless you like the smell and smoke of the equivalent of a burnout permeating your house.
That face shield is what I carry when I go shopping...
Still needs work but need to get to some other things before it gets cold. The added height of about 2" from the steel platform allows for plenty of door clearance thanks to the idea from Dadsbee!
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You guys do nice work. Since your both smart I don’t need to do all the thought process to figure it all out. I think I’ll do mine next year when I retire.
Doug
Doug
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I’ve yet to try mine out since installing but I’m sure looking forward to it. Prior to the door I had a rail on the right side of the trailer floor that I rode the front tire with while loading. With post cars like ours squeezing out between the door and pillar post is a bugger. An inch too far over to the left meant redo for me. Good luck.
I told my wife when I can’t crawl out the window I’ll quit racing. She said, ya right, build a door.
Doug
QOTHL
Well-Known Member
I was so consumed with building the door I didn't stop to think about what you meant by a pillar - you mean the B pillar which doesn't really exist on a Charger or a 'Cuda. Even with both windows open it was still a pain in the *** getting out of there. After getting the shaft from the door lock, I made sure I kept padding in the car to lay over the door opening to get out. I'm not very tall or "big" and it was still an ordeal. I would usually take my shoes off and toss them out the window to the front of the trailer if I couldn't take them off before pulling the car in.
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